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Made in us
Shunting Grey Knight Interceptor




San Jose, California

Hey ya'll,
Noremac here, yet again This time, some lads and I are attempting to build a nice cheap gaming table.
We already have a very nice table, so this won't be our main table, but we are planning on hosting a
wargaming party within the next few weeks and need another table or two.

*Note: We want these tables to be smaller so we can use Zone Mortalis, Combat Patrol, etc.*

Supplies
- 1 inch x 4 feet x 8 feet Polystyrene Foam Board Insulation (~$12) [x1]
- 4 feet x 2 feet Roll of Natural Cork Liner (~$9/~$18) [x2]
- 11 ounce can of Soft Iron Flat spray paint (~$7)

Process
Step 1) Cut the 4x8 Foam Board into half. (2 sheets of 4x4)

Step 2) Stack both Foam Boards on top of each other to create a 2 inch think 4x4 board.

Step 3) Glue and secure the Foam Boards together. (One on top of the other)

Step 4) Lay down the Cork Liner on top of the Foam Board.

Step 5) Cut the Cork Liner up into random jagged pieces.

Step 6) Fashion the Cork Liner back on top of the board so that all the pieces match up.
(The entire board should be covered)

Step 7) Secure the Cork Liner on top of the board.

(Peel the sticker and use the adhesive on the bottom of the Cork Liner as well as using a light layer of PVA glue)

Step 8) Tape off all exposed foam with painter's tape. (Leave the cork showing)

Step 9) Coat the cork in two to three layers of spray paint.

Step 10) Add extra bits, flock, etc. Paint to your liking.

What the Cork Liner should look like:

* Photo Credit to: elmir (Heresy Online) [http://www.heresy-online.net/forums/showthread.php?t=98540]


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

So, in conclusion fellow Dakkalites, here is what you can do for me!

-Will this process work?
-Am I missing anything major?
-Have you done or seen anything similar to this?
-General C&C always appreciated and welcomed!

[I will be updating this post in the next few weeks IF we do go through with this board! Stay tuned!]

-Noremac

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2014/05/18 23:19:54


It's all in the rolls. 
   
Made in us
Did Fulgrim Just Behead Ferrus?





Fort Worth, TX

 Noremac wrote:
Step 3) Glue and secure the Foam Boards together. (One on top of the other)


Just make sure you have a LOT of very heavy books to pile on top to keep the two boards squeezed flat together while the glue dries.

Otherwise, looks like it should work.

"Through the darkness of future past, the magician longs to see.
One chants out between two worlds: Fire, walk with me."
- Twin Peaks
"You listen to me. While I will admit to a certain cynicism, the fact is that I am a naysayer and hatchetman in the fight against violence. I pride myself in taking a punch and I'll gladly take another because I choose to live my life in the company of Gandhi and King. My concerns are global. I reject absolutely revenge, aggression, and retaliation. The foundation of such a method... is love. I love you Sheriff Truman." - Twin Peaks 
   
Made in us
Shunting Grey Knight Interceptor




San Jose, California

Good call! Hehe. That could have been bad.

It's all in the rolls. 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






You might have a tough time with just one can of spray paint (I could barely get a 3'x6' train table painted with a semi-solid coat with one can.

Not going to lie though, I really like the cork idea!

1500 Dark Angels( 9 - 4 - 0 )
Humility must always be the portion of any man who receives acclaim earned in the blood of his followers and the sacrifices of his friends.
- Dwight D. Eisenhower




 
   
Made in us
Did Fulgrim Just Behead Ferrus?





Fort Worth, TX

 Brillow80 wrote:
You might have a tough time with just one can of spray paint (I could barely get a 3'x6' train table painted with a semi-solid coat with one can.


Good point. As an alternative, while you're already at the hardware store getting the foam board, check the house paint section. Most big stores (Lowes, Home Depot), will usually have some reject cans of paint that didn't quite match the color the customer wanted and you can get them for cheap.

"Through the darkness of future past, the magician longs to see.
One chants out between two worlds: Fire, walk with me."
- Twin Peaks
"You listen to me. While I will admit to a certain cynicism, the fact is that I am a naysayer and hatchetman in the fight against violence. I pride myself in taking a punch and I'll gladly take another because I choose to live my life in the company of Gandhi and King. My concerns are global. I reject absolutely revenge, aggression, and retaliation. The foundation of such a method... is love. I love you Sheriff Truman." - Twin Peaks 
   
Made in us
Shunting Grey Knight Interceptor




San Jose, California

Hmm. Reject paint. Sounds like a good idea. I only went with the spray paint because it seemed like it would be cheap, quick, and easy. However, I know that house paint will definitely give me a better and more even coverage. Thanks for the tip!

It's all in the rolls. 
   
Made in us
Big Mek in Kustom Dragster with Soopa-Gun





Nebraska, USA

Especially for the general board, reject paints are great. To cover that board in any color of a "nice" paint would get pricy quick. I dont even think i plan to use any of my nice paints on the buildings i got cooking in my head, let alone the board itself lol.

Got a good start here.

An ork with an idea tends to end with a bang.

14000pts Big 'n Bad Orkz
6000pts Admech/Knights
7500pts Necron Goldboys 
   
Made in us
Shunting Grey Knight Interceptor




San Jose, California

True true. The board definitely doesn't need to be all that pretty! Ha.

It's all in the rolls. 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

How do you plan to glue the two foam sheets together? Make sure you use an appropriate adhesive, as you won't be getting any absorption or airflow between them once you move away from the edges - PVA will take ages to cure in the middle, if it ever fully does. I might also add a few pins (cut down toothpicks) between the boards to keep them from shifting while the glue sets.

Aside from spray paint consumption (latex/emulsion house paint is a good option, as mentioned), I don't see any other potential rubs in the plan, if executed with a little care. Should look great once it's finished, based on the example picture. I quite like the cracked earth/pavement look the cork sheet gives.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in us
Shunting Grey Knight Interceptor




San Jose, California

@oadie,
I thought about that a bit. I would definitely use some sort of pinning medium. Most likely toothpicks. But now that I have thought about it, is double-layering it worth the pain? I mean, it would be 1" thick with just the one sheet of insulation. Is 2" really necessary? This board will go on top of a card-table when it is in use, so I am not worried about what it will go on top of. Just wondering, is double-layering it really worth the annoyance? I could always just keep that other 4x4 sheet of insulation to cut up and make terrain with... Hmm. Thoughts?

It's all in the rolls. 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






No. Two layers isnt worth the pain. If you are concerned about structural issues...foam isnt the best option either. A sheet of 1/4 ply laminated to the bottom is more durable than two layers of foam.

The only reason to glue up foam is to give the needed thickness for carving (trenches and canyons down...mountains up).

When it comes to gluing anything to foam (including foam to foam) my favorite adhesive is Glidden Gripper. No need to pin, no need to vent, almost no need to clamp. Cheap enough ($10 per quart), and you can easily brush it on. Also makes a great general purpose primer (big stuff like boards...not for miniatures). Ready to cut and carve in about an hour.

Another comment...using PVA in addition to the PSA on the cork is self defeating. The PVA can only glue itself to the adhesive layer, the adhesive layer can only glue to the PVA (once it dries). Most PSA will stick better to foam than PVA will. Save the mess and hassle. To get a good bond, use a veneer roller or barring that, raid the kitchen for a rolling pin. Is you dont have either, any other round object that you can roll and apply even pressure with.
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

I had assumed you wanted the extra thickness for a specific reason, like carving deep features. If you don't have one, I agree with Sean - extra hassle without any real benefit. Thin plywood or even MDF would do more for durability, as crushing/abrasion on the edges is a bigger issue with foam boards than stiffness (assuming they're supported during play, as yours will be). Save the extra half sheet; it's useful stuff.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in us
Shunting Grey Knight Interceptor




San Jose, California

Sounds good, oadie! Thanks again for all your guys' replies. The plan is for my buddies and I to get the materials and all have a board-making party early June. Complete with a few games of course Hehe. Will try and get some pictures along the way! Maybe even post a step by step guide!

It's all in the rolls. 
   
 
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