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Made in us
Dakka Veteran





How the crap do I put these things on the models?

Nothing more fun than tabling an opponent 
   
Made in gb
Wolf Guard Bodyguard in Terminator Armor





Are you talking about the decals that come with the models?

If so, cut around the decal that you want with a sharp knife or scissors.

Then using some tweesers hold the decal in some clean water for a couple of minutes or until you can start to slide the decal with a brush.

Hold the decal near the model and then gently slide it onto the model using a brush. If you want to move it about the model then use a bit of water and gently brush the decal.

Once its in the right place use a bit of matt varnish to ensure it doesnt come off when being handled, it will also remove that gloss look.

Finally if you are trying to do shoulder guards or rounded surfaces then putting a small amount of microsol on them can help, this will help the decal go round curves easier by thinning them down.



 
   
Made in gb
Raging Ravener




Maidstone, Kent

Cut out the decal you want and soak it in a saucer of water. The decal will lift away from the backing after a while. Remove it from the water very carefully with tweezers and place it on the model. You can lift the backing out of the water and catch the decal with it safely. When you've placed the decal it can be moved slightly with a wet brush.

More than 7pts, less than 7000...just
4000+ 2500 2000+
 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





So no glue or anything needed to make sure it doesnt come off in the future? Also, say I wanted to adjust it in a few months am I still able to with a bit of water and a brush, assuming I haven't varnished it anyway

Nothing more fun than tabling an opponent 
   
Made in us
Hellish Haemonculus






Boskydell, IL

Zodiark wrote:
So no glue or anything needed to make sure it doesnt come off in the future? Also, say I wanted to adjust it in a few months am I still able to with a bit of water and a brush, assuming I haven't varnished it anyway


No glue. Soak it in water for 30 seconds to a minute. After that, you can usually just pick the decal up with a brush tip and transfer it where you want it to go.

First, use some gloss varnish over the area to be decal-ed. This will prevent air bubbles. Soak the decal in lukewarm water for 30 seconds to a minute. After that, you can usually just pick the decal up with a brush tip and transfer it where you want it to go. Wet the area before putting the decal on with a little bit of Microset first. This will help the decal adhere to the surface. You can use a wet brush to 'glide' the decal into place.

After everything is dried, you can use Microsol to dissolve the carrier medium away, leaving your minis undamaged and the decal paint unharmed. If there are any air bubbles, pop them with a pin or the tip of a hobby knife. Once the Microsol is dried, you can give it as many subsequent treatments of Microsol as you need.

And no, once it's set, it's set. You won't be able to shift it around.

Welcome to the Freakshow!

(Leadership-shenanigans for Eldar of all types.) 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Kk. Will need to get some Microsol then

Nothing more fun than tabling an opponent 
   
Made in us
Hellish Haemonculus






Boskydell, IL

Trust me, it's worth it to get the Microsol and Microset together. You can pick them up at any model train shop. Some hobby stores will carry them as well. (All the ones I've seen keep it behind the counter like some kind of controlled substance though. I always feel like I'm scoring drugs when I go to buy some.)

Welcome to the Freakshow!

(Leadership-shenanigans for Eldar of all types.) 
   
Made in eu
Lord of the Fleet






Also - very important - if you don't want to be able to see the film then gloss varnish before and after putting decals on.

Gloss before helps the decal sit perfectly smooth. Gloss after stops the matt varnish from making the film go cloudy.
   
Made in gb
[DCM]
Coastal Bliss in the Shadow of Sizewell





Suffolk, where the Aliens roam.

Moved you over to painting and modelling.

"That's not an Ork, its a girl.." - Last words of High General Daran Ul'tharem, battle of Ursha VII.

Two White Horses (Ipswich Town and Denver Broncos Supporter)
 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Microsol to put it on, mircoset to keep it there. Varnish before and after.

I use spray can varnish on my transport models so the areas with decals would get a lil extra on them which should do too much. I use a flat but I might try a satin for the vehicles

Nothing more fun than tabling an opponent 
   
Made in us
Hellish Haemonculus






Boskydell, IL

Zodiark wrote:
Microsol to put it on, mircoset to keep it there. Varnish before and after.


Other way around on the Micros.

Remember it like this. MicroSET sets the mini in place. MicroSOL disSOLves the excess medium.

Welcome to the Freakshow!

(Leadership-shenanigans for Eldar of all types.) 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Ahh this is very helpful indeed.

Is the varnish necessary?

Nothing more fun than tabling an opponent 
   
Made in us
Hellish Haemonculus






Boskydell, IL

God yes. Gloss first (until it's smooth as glass), and whatever you want after it's all done. (Make sure you're FINISHED using Microsol on it before you put the final varnish on, though.)

Welcome to the Freakshow!

(Leadership-shenanigans for Eldar of all types.) 
   
Made in gb
Been Around the Block





Runcorn

For a bit more control. I find it useful not to soak. Use a clean brush and wet the shiny side first, then the blue paper side, it will soak up really quickly 20 seconds or so and it's ready

Wet the surface you want to apply it to as well (e.g shoulder pad) and use the wet brush to slide the transfer from the blue paper to the intended area. Having the target area wet will allow you some time to adjust the decal before it starts to stick to get it just right. Adjustments are easily made with the wet brush on the edge of the transfer.

For curved surfaces like shoulderpads, i find it useful if possible to cut into the transfer when dry, for example cutting down into the gap of an Ultramarines symbol. this will help it to settle flat on the surface rather than bubbling.
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





This sounds so complicated but I'll give it a go

Nothing more fun than tabling an opponent 
   
Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Los Angeles, CA, USA

This is the best tutorial I have yet seen for decals. Follow his instructions and you will be fine.

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/winterdyne_tutorial3.pdf
   
Made in us
Boosting Ultramarine Biker




Maryville, TN

 Todosi wrote:
This is the best tutorial I have yet seen for decals. Follow his instructions and you will be fine.

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/winterdyne_tutorial3.pdf


Excellent link! Saving that to my reference folder.
   
 
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