Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Hi!

Anyone got a favorite brand they would like to suggest?
I'm having a hard time choosing a brand, as I have had some troubles with Loctite Precision and one called Max.

I would like one that sets quite fast and does a good job holding stuff together. It's mostly for Forge World, terrain and some plastic bits.


Thanks.

I love the stuff you can get at Walmart, honestly. Go to the paint section, look for the adhesives area, and you'll find a 4-pack of superglue in a black and yellow pack. That's your stuff. Costs a bit over a dollar per pack, and it bonds nicely. I use it on everything.

My personal preference is gorilla glue superglue as it drys with a slight rubberish finish so if pressure is applied it will give a little rather than breaking

I've only ever used locticte precision, tbh. What kind problems did you have with it?

Superglues (cyanoacrylate) are all much the same thing. You can get thicker versions which are like a gel, and a brush-on version which is quite runny, but that's more for ease of application than for adhesive qualities. I use cheap, no-brand tubes of superglue; I can get a pack of ten tubes from the pound shop, which I guess is about the same as four for a dollar in the US.

What will help in superglue use is an accelerant or 'magic' spray. Superglue needs to be in an air-free environment to work quickly (which is why a puddle of superglue dries slowly yet a joint dries quickly - there's no air in the joint.)

A 'magic' spray forms an airtight seal over the joint allowing the superglue to set. I use this stuff:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Army-Painter-Magic-Suplerglue-Activator/dp/B00IRHEK86
but there are several other brands available.

Thanks for the replies guys!

@timetowaste85: I'll check out Wallmart as soon as possible, thanks!

@Tacowrap: It just wouldn't set, I tried different methods and it still had a hard time setting. Plastic and Forge World stuff, no matter how much or little I used.
The company told me it could be a bad pot, but I never tried it again.

@Chrissy_J: Thanks! I heard about the 'magic' spray, but forgot what it was named. Is there any downside about overspray on the model though? I have seen Templarscrusade01 use it, and I have always been worried about how it affect the paint job.

I usually go with the supermarket brand glue, in your case walmart.

I use the cheapest glue I can find. Because the models are already so expensive. Hehe

I don't think the brand makes a difference in the bonding strength. The only thing of mine that falls apart is the penitent engine but I don't suppose you would have any model as clunking metal as those.

And yep, accelerant helps a lot for the fully metal penitent engine but I've never had to use it for plastics. Infind the settling time gives me a chance to correct any small errors.

I use Gorilla Glue for most of my general stuff, and I use Loctite ultra control gel for precision stuff.

I used the P3 super glue and highly recommanded it. Its not 'better' than outer superglues but the bottle is well made and the tip is sealed very well, preventing the whole bottle from going to waste.

The best for models is the GEl! Do not buy that runny non gap filling garbage,Buy the SUper Gel from any dollar store 2 tubes for a buck,Swithched over to it years ago and have not and will not use anything else And i have been a Wargaming modeller for 25 yrs.

I like Loctite brand stuff. I have tried some of the cheaper brands and they seemed more brittle to me, though it mattered more in the days of big metal models.

I'd also recommend avoiding stuff in the toothpaste style squeeze tubes, the loctite brand has a good applicator and I'm sure many others do as well. But the tube-type applicators are annoying as hell, the caps so often get stuck on, the nozzles get clogged and I've had one of them split and get all over my hands.

I used Krazy Glue for years, as it's all I could get ($1 tubes at the convenience stores within walking distance of my old apartment). Runny, but it otherwise worked just fine.

Nowadays, I'm using the Loctite Control Gel quite happily. Easier to control and the cured bond is no different than the Krazy Glue or off-brand tubes I've tried.

I also have yet to feel the need for a CA accelerator/"zip kicker." Some people swear by them, but if I have an issue with CA cure time, it's generally of the "too short" variety. I've also heard that its use can lead to more brittle bonds, but I can't speak to that from any direct experience.

Kern wrote:

@Chrissy_J: Thanks! I heard about the 'magic' spray, but forgot what it was named. Is there any downside about overspray on the model though? I have seen Templarscrusade01 use it, and I have always been worried about how it affect the paint job.

I haven't used it on painted surfaces yet (I fully assemble before painting) but I'm aware that it's not safe to use Magic spray on surfaces that have been Quickshaded. Both of these products are solvent based and the Magic spray will dissolve the Quickshade. It's also highly flammable, apparently.

I do know that if you spray a joint, the rest of the mini will feel 'tacky' as though the solvent in the spray has started to attack the surrounding plastic or resin. To prevent getting fingerprints on the mini, lay the mini down, spray the joint, then leave it alone for a few minutes to allow the solvent to 'flash off'.

If you have any doubts about this product (like any other product) then test it on a demonstration mini first, or just glue a few pieces of sprue together, before risking it on your latest masterpiece.

I like the small "toothpaste" tubes of gorilla glue superglue. I think they are $2.00 for 2 little tubes of it. You barely need any, so squeeze very gently at first. I have never had any problems with this stuff. If anything, it can be too strong and difficult to remove if you notice a mistake after it has dried. Luckily, I find that the gorilla glue superglue takes about 10-30 seconds to dry depending on the amount used so you have a little bit of wiggle room to adjust.

Metal models are always more challenging but this stuff seems to work pretty well. Been using it for a few years now and I keep buying it if that's any indicator of how good it is.

- VardenV2