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What paint system do you use?
Citadel
The Army Painter
P3
Other (I'm sure I've forgotten something)

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Made in us
Dakka Veteran




.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/11/15 19:46:19


 
   
Made in de
Repentia Mistress





Santuary 101

I used Armypainter dips for a while but I found it messy and killed a few brushes so these days I'm using the usual paint and wash method.

However I prefer squeeze bottles to the flip tops so I use Armypainter paints as much as possible.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/07/06 23:39:51


DS:70+S+G+M-B--IPw40k94-D+++A++/wWD380R+T(D)DM+

Avatar scene by artist Nicholas Kay. Give credit where it's due! 
   
Made in us
Brainy Zoanthrope




Boston, MA

Getting back into the game earlier this year I started using Vallejo because the dropper system, and it's never steered me wrong!

   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





I use citadel. Probably because Ive not been back in the hobby long and most of my old citadel paints were useable (plus some extra citadel paints i needed).

Will i switch to another? Maybe, but the gw store is a 2 minute walk away. If someone threw some valejo dropper bottles at me i would probably never look back but as Im still learning using the citadel paints i will stick to those for now.
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






Columbia, SC (USA)

I switched to Vallejo. I was not happy with some of the colors that Games Workshop changed and I have always hated how quickly the GW paints dry up.

I still use most of GW's washes and metallics though I will drop the latter soon.

The secret to painting a really big army is to keep at it. You can't reach your destination if you never take any steps.

I build IG...lots and lots of IG.  
   
Made in de
Repentia Mistress





Santuary 101

I had this problem with the flip tops from Citadel.. I opened a bottle of yellow and unknowingly, my left thumb got some paint on it as it had slipped and contacted the inside of the cap. Then I picked up an almost completed model just to finish dotting the eyes..... 2 hours down the drain and I had to repaint most of it!

DS:70+S+G+M-B--IPw40k94-D+++A++/wWD380R+T(D)DM+

Avatar scene by artist Nicholas Kay. Give credit where it's due! 
   
Made in ca
Ancient Venerable Black Templar Dreadnought





Canada

Liquitex medium body paints with Vallejo as backup for airbrush and metallic. I still have many GW paints and trying to use them up before they dry out.

Main reason for Liquitex: keeps forever, cheaper by volume, never clogged my .2 air brush when diluted for air use, tons of colors and support on paints, alternate colors without cadmium which is bad for air use. They also sell spray cans of their paint. Basically one stop shop for all acrylic needs.

A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran




 milkboy wrote:
I used Armypainter dips for a while but I found it messy and killed a few brushes so these days I'm using the usual paint and wash method.

However I prefer squeeze bottles to the flip tops so I use Armypainter paints as much as possible.


If you physically dip the model in quickshade you don't have to use a brush.
   
Made in us
Rampaging Furioso Blood Angel Dreadnought





Boston, MA

Various, mostly Citadel, P3 and Vallejo...

Please check out my photo blog: http://atticwars40k.blogspot.com/ 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Other (I'm sure I've forgotten something)


Holy Hell did you forget everything...

Vallejo (combined for simplicities sake - but realistically VMA, VGC and VMC), Foundry, Reaper, Cote D'Arms, Derivan Minis, Renaissance Inks, Badger, Andrea, RPE, MP...

That doesn't even breach the issue of broader model paints like Testor's Acryl, Tamiya, Humbrol, Revel, Gunze...

Which doesn't even get to the broader fluid acrylics like Golden, Cel Vinyl, Liquitex, Craft Paints (and all the variations there of)...

Which doesn't even get to non-acrylic paints like oils, enamels, lacquers...

When talking about systems though, I would consider that to refer to base, shade highlight system like Reaper and Foundry offer (GW trying to emulate - but doing it in a rather confused manner). Army painter could be a system given their format and quick shades. The others are not really systems, just collections of paint.

In any case, most people who actually use more than one brand and don't get sucked in by branding and marketing hype will use many more than one. Each line will have strengths and weaknesses - and within the core miniature paint family you can mix and match with little care.
   
Made in de
Repentia Mistress





Santuary 101

Random Dude wrote:
 milkboy wrote:
I used Armypainter dips for a while but I found it messy and killed a few brushes so these days I'm using the usual paint and wash method.

However I prefer squeeze bottles to the flip tops so I use Armypainter paints as much as possible.


If you physically dip the model in quickshade you don't have to use a brush.


I can't do the dip and flick method in the tutorial video because I don't have the luxury of space. And when I dip, I have to use a brush to take out the dip from areas where it pools too much.

How do you do it? Maybe I can learn something new. I've still got half a can of dip. I wouldn't mind using it as long as its not as messy as paint and washes.

DS:70+S+G+M-B--IPw40k94-D+++A++/wWD380R+T(D)DM+

Avatar scene by artist Nicholas Kay. Give credit where it's due! 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





IL.

Vallejo Model Air, game color and model colors. I also use thinned Citadel paints.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/07/07 00:41:19


   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






 milkboy wrote:
Random Dude wrote:
 milkboy wrote:
I used Armypainter dips for a while but I found it messy and killed a few brushes so these days I'm using the usual paint and wash method.

However I prefer squeeze bottles to the flip tops so I use Armypainter paints as much as possible.


If you physically dip the model in quickshade you don't have to use a brush.


I can't do the dip and flick method in the tutorial video because I don't have the luxury of space. And when I dip, I have to use a brush to take out the dip from areas where it pools too much.

How do you do it? Maybe I can learn something new. I've still got half a can of dip. I wouldn't mind using it as long as its not as messy as paint and washes.


Never seen it done - but I have heard people who have claimed to use salad spinners for dipping (not with Army Painter - these are old school guys who use things like Magic Wash and Minwax...before Army Painter branded it).

Found a link to an article showing it in action:

http://theminiaturespage.com/workbench/676615/

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/07/07 00:48:44


 
   
Made in us
Sergeant First Class





Northern VA

I used to use Citadels ... hated the way they dried out so much and absolutely loath the new bottles. Got a Battlefront paint set (basically Vallejo) when I started Flames of War and haven't turned back. I do have a few Army Painter colors as well, when they run out I will be replacing them with Vallejo. The dropper bottle system is fantastic! It's made painting a much more enjoyable experience for me.

W40k, FoW, Bolt Action 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

re: indoor dipping - I've also seen people spin dipped models around their vertical axis. Bases were temporarily glue to a nail, which is easily gripped by the chuck of a powered drill. The minis were then lowered through a slightly oversize hole in the top of a small box and spun to remove the excess dip. Minimal space required and good at containing the mess, it appears, but I can't personally vouch for the effectiveness.

As for the poll, I don't use a "system" - my paints/inks/mediums come from a number of different hobby/fine arts/craft manufacturers (not to mention the various household products re-purposed as additives). I don't have a set method, either, and frequently intermix brands.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in ph
Utilizing Careful Highlighting





Manila, Philippines

What is this system you're referring to?

I buy any brand I think is great, or if there's a color I fancy from that specific brand. Nowadays my paint collection is mostly Vallejo but that won't stop me from getting a prdouct from another company if they prove to be superb. And if you refer to painting systems like what GW offers (base, layer, highlight, whatever), then also no. Sticking to that constricts me as a painter and why would I chain myself to specific steps?


 
   
Made in au
Sneaky Lictor





Primarily P3,but I do use other brands as the need arises.

 
   
Made in gb
Hellacious Havoc




Old Trafford, Manchester

milkboy wrote:

I can't do the dip and flick method in the tutorial video because I don't have the luxury of space. And when I dip, I have to use a brush to take out the dip from areas where it pools too much.

How do you do it? Maybe I can learn something new. I've still got half a can of dip. I wouldn't mind using it as long as its not as messy as paint and washes.


You don't need a whole lot of space to flick the dip off; I do it in the hallway of my apartment, onto a sheet of packing cardboard that was used to contain flatpack furniture.
I flick alongside my right leg and down towards my ankle, and the area of spatter from the dip isn't more than a metre long by 20cm wide. But, I let as much dip drain off the mini as possible, before I flick the rest off.

To remove any remaining dip residue I use the edge of a piece of kitchen towel paper, to wick it away from any textured area (faces, weapons) or to wipe it away from smooth surfaces (shoulder pads, helmets,trouser legs.)

The biggest problem I have is that any further highlighting doesn't take well to Quickshaded mini's, and I have to spray on a coat of Army Painter matt varnish before I can add any more detail, but I think I get good results from Quickshade and I'll be buying another can when I need one.

"If I advance, follow me. If I retreat, shoot me. If I fall, avenge me. This is my last command to you all. FORWARD!!" 
   
Made in fi
Boosting Space Marine Biker





Mixed. I use both Vallejo and Citadel colours - mainly due to price difference, AND Citadel ruined a few colours I used to paint my dudes with, of which the new variants suck.

In my opinion, the Vallejo metallic colours are superior; especially the Old Gold and Silver are close to my heart.

Innocentia Nihil Probat.
Son of Dorn  
   
Made in us
Rogue Daemonhunter fueled by Chaos






Toledo, OH

I use mostly reaper master series paints, but I use other paints for a lot of different things.

Metallics: Valljo Model Air and Model Colors
Washes: Citadel and Army Painter
Inks: Vallejo Game Color
Terrain: Game Decor

I still keep around a decent collection of Delta Ceramcote (craft pain), a good chunk of vallejo model colors, a few really old Ral Partha paints, and even one Rackham color.

The only major paint line I don't use is P3, not because I dislike them, but nothing has suggested that they excel in an area where I don't have coverage.
   
Made in de
Repentia Mistress





Santuary 101

 Chrissy_J wrote:
milkboy wrote:

I can't do the dip and flick method in the tutorial video because I don't have the luxury of space. And when I dip, I have to use a brush to take out the dip from areas where it pools too much.

How do you do it? Maybe I can learn something new. I've still got half a can of dip. I wouldn't mind using it as long as its not as messy as paint and washes.


You don't need a whole lot of space to flick the dip off; I do it in the hallway of my apartment, onto a sheet of packing cardboard that was used to contain flatpack furniture.
I flick alongside my right leg and down towards my ankle, and the area of spatter from the dip isn't more than a metre long by 20cm wide. But, I let as much dip drain off the mini as possible, before I flick the rest off.

To remove any remaining dip residue I use the edge of a piece of kitchen towel paper, to wick it away from any textured area (faces, weapons) or to wipe it away from smooth surfaces (shoulder pads, helmets,trouser legs.)

The biggest problem I have is that any further highlighting doesn't take well to Quickshaded mini's, and I have to spray on a coat of Army Painter matt varnish before I can add any more detail, but I think I get good results from Quickshade and I'll be buying another can when I need one.


Sorry to be a bit off topic.

The only time I have tried to flick was with a SoB model and a rather poor pair of pliers to hold it. After one flick, the model was a few meters away, staining everything and the backpack had gone missing. So I had a bad first time trying and never tried again. I attributed it to the fact that the metal mini was a bit too heavy to flick while holding the base securely.

How did you hold the mini? Maybe I flicked too hard.

DS:70+S+G+M-B--IPw40k94-D+++A++/wWD380R+T(D)DM+

Avatar scene by artist Nicholas Kay. Give credit where it's due! 
   
Made in nl
Regular Dakkanaut





I use Vallejo model air,model color and game color.
Like the dropper bottles.
Paint dilutable with water so no smelly stuff needed to dillute the paints an clean out my brushes
   
Made in gb
Hellacious Havoc




Old Trafford, Manchester

I use a mixture of Vallejo Model Color and GW's paints. I have an Army Painter starter set as well but it doesn't get used so much.

When I started painting mini's almost 20 years ago I used exclusively GW paints 'cos they were cheap and the most easily available acrylic paint.
It was that or Humbrol enamels and they'd been hard work to use in my childhood.

Nowadays I'm a paint slut, I'll try anything...


Automatically Appended Next Post:
milkboy wrote:
The only time I have tried to flick was with a SoB model and a rather poor pair of pliers to hold it. After one flick, the model was a few meters away, staining everything and the backpack had gone missing. So I had a bad first time trying and never tried again. I attributed it to the fact that the metal mini was a bit too heavy to flick while holding the base securely.

How did you hold the mini? Maybe I flicked too hard.


I base almost all my minis before painting, the exception have holes drilled in their feet and a tight-fitting cocktail stick inserted.
The base is attached to an old asthma inhaler with blu-tack, pushed on tightly to make sure it doesn't fly off when I shake it.

Quickshade dip works best when it's applied from feet to head (ie. with the mini' upside down) so the shade can get into any recesses you missed when painting, and I flick it dry about a dozen times, turning it in my hand 90ยบ or so after three or four flicks.

I've had a couple of mini's fly off the inhaler holder; it's dispiriting when you see them on the floor, covered in dust and cat hair, and all you can really do is strip the paint off and do it again.

Like a lot of things in this hobby, making practice or demonstration models is the best way to learn.
You can practice the 'dip and flick' method just by undercoating a random mini in white or grey primer and dipping it.
Effectively, you are almost throwing your model down the room, so you need to get good at this.
If it doesn't work out, you haven't wasted your time and effort in a nice paint job.

When you get the hang of it, then you can try it with your latest masterpiece.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/07/08 01:41:14


"If I advance, follow me. If I retreat, shoot me. If I fall, avenge me. This is my last command to you all. FORWARD!!" 
   
Made in us
Trustworthy Shas'vre




DFW area Texas - Rarely

 Sean_OBrien wrote:
Other (I'm sure I've forgotten something)


Holy Hell did you forget everything...

Vallejo (combined for simplicities sake - but realistically VMA, VGC and VMC), Foundry, Reaper, Cote D'Arms, Derivan Minis, Renaissance Inks, Badger, Andrea, RPE, MP...

That doesn't even breach the issue of broader model paints like Testor's Acryl, Tamiya, Humbrol, Revel, Gunze...

Which doesn't even get to the broader fluid acrylics like Golden, Cel Vinyl, Liquitex, Craft Paints (and all the variations there of)...

Which doesn't even get to non-acrylic paints like oils, enamels, lacquers...

When talking about systems though, I would consider that to refer to base, shade highlight system like Reaper and Foundry offer (GW trying to emulate - but doing it in a rather confused manner). Army painter could be a system given their format and quick shades. The others are not really systems, just collections of paint.

In any case, most people who actually use more than one brand and don't get sucked in by branding and marketing hype will use many more than one. Each line will have strengths and weaknesses - and within the core miniature paint family you can mix and match with little care.

Yeah, like many others have said, you "forgot" many others.

While I don't really consider what I use a "system" - sure, I prime, paint, detail, wash, dip, gloss etc. depending on the model.

I use:
Primers:
Rustolemum 2x primer from the hardware store.
Armory primer
army painter colored primers
vallejo surface primer in an airbrush (amazing).

Basic painting
vallejo game color/model color
vallejo model air
citadel.
reaper master series
minitaire airbrush paints
occasional craft paints
golden airbrush paint (golden is the brand of high quality artist paints - by volume they are cheaper than hobby paints).

Washes or Dips
reaper ink
artist paints thinned with mineral spirits
citadel wahses and glazes
army painter tone inks (they are the old gw washes - excellent)
minwax polyurthane stain (for my nids that get dipped).

For decals:
my hobby setter
my hobby softer

For finish work;
gloss - liquitex high gloss finish
matte - testors acryl flat clear (amazing).

Other support products:
tamyia acrylic thinner
golden brand airbrush medium
91% alcohol (for thinning SOME paints)
99% alcohol (for cleaning).
masters brush cleaner.
Apoxie sculpt (my gs alternative).

So um...yeah...

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2014/07/08 05:02:14


DavePak
"Remember, in life, the only thing you absolutely control is your own attitude - do not squander that power."
Fully Painted armies:
TAU: 10k Nids: 9600 Marines: 4000 Crons: 7600
Actor, Gamer, Comic, Corporate Nerd
 
   
Made in gb
Speedy Swiftclaw Biker





UK

Vallejo is my main paint company, you probably should have had that on their, a lot fo your votes would have gone to them!

- 5000
- 2000 
   
Made in us
Stern Iron Priest with Thrall Bodyguard





Redondo Beach

P3 all the way!!!

my favorite paints on the market, for sure...
great coverage, unique colors, and a lovely satin finish...

i have found all other paints disappointing by comparison...

cheers
jah

Paint like ya got a pair!

Available for commissions.
 
   
Made in ph
Utilizing Careful Highlighting





Manila, Philippines

 jah-joshua wrote:
P3 all the way!!!

my favorite paints on the market, for sure...
great coverage, unique colors, and a lovely satin finish...

i have found all other paints disappointing by comparison...

cheers
jah


Really, it has a satin finish? Interesting. Do you use P3 paints exclusively?


 
   
Made in us
Stern Iron Priest with Thrall Bodyguard





Redondo Beach

heartserenade: yeah, i pretty much use P3 exclusively, with the exception of a couple of Vallejo paints, such as their Smoke wash, and the Air Metals Gold and Aluminium, plus the GW wash Ogryn Flesh...
everything else is P3, paints, inks, and washes...

i've tried about half of the paint lines on the market (there are actually a ton of different paint lines out there), and nothing else makes me happy...
i look for a very specific finish in my paints, to suit my comic-book style...

cheers
jah

Paint like ya got a pair!

Available for commissions.
 
   
Made in ph
Utilizing Careful Highlighting





Manila, Philippines

Okay, I might give them a shot. Thanks!

I use Vallejo almost exclusively but hey, might be good to check out something new.


 
   
Made in us
Navigator





Carbondale, IL

 heartserenade wrote:
Okay, I might give them a shot. Thanks!

I use Vallejo almost exclusively but hey, might be good to check out something new.


A friend's comment about P3 paints: "Great paint in a crappy pot." I tend to agree, the flip-top very, very flimsy. Still easier to clean than the newer GW pots. I've been contemplating picking up a set of dropper bottles to transfer GW paints into for easier, well, everything.

SIUC Strategic Games Society, a Roleplaying/Tabletop/Card student organization/club at Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
 Vermis wrote:
 Bronzefists42 wrote:
I noticed that the plastic glue label recommends wearing something akin to a hazmat suit when handling the glue. I have been using it for years and never used gloves or anything nor do I know anyone who does. ShouldI be worried for my health?

Well, there's a slight risk of gluing something together with it. Only slight, mind.

 
   
 
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