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Made in gb
Gun Mage





In the Chaos Wastes, Killing the Chaos scum of the north

Hey dakkanaughts! Just a quick question, do you think these models are of a standard you would be fine seeing acroos the board? Yes they are terrible, they wont win any competitions, but they are painted, are they of a standard you wouldnt mind seeing on the tabletop?




 Thortek wrote:


Was she hot? I'd totally bang a cougar for some minis.

Wanna see some Cygnar? Witty coments? Mediocre painting? Check this out! 
   
Made in gb
Snotty Snotling





Essex, England - normally

Theyre not bad! Id be fine playing against these if i actally played warmachine or hordes, whichever one it is

Nurgle WoC 600pts

600pt (mini) WAAAAAAAGH!

 
   
Made in gb
Morphing Obliterator




Medrengard

Yeah. They're perfectly fine for tabletop standard. It looks like you need to thin your paints a little though. That would make a massive difference to the finish.

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Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut






Toronto

Yes, I'd play them.

Adepta Sororitas: 3,800 Points
Adeptus Custodes: 8,100 Points
Adeptus Mechanicus: 8,400 Points
Alpha Legion: 4,400 Points
Astra Militarum: 7,500 Points
Dark Angels: 16,800 Points
Imperial Knights: 12,500 Points
Legio Titanicus: 5,500 Points
Slaaneshi Daemons: 3,800 Points
 
   
Made in gb
Gun Mage





In the Chaos Wastes, Killing the Chaos scum of the north

tomcat31 wrote:
Yeah. They're perfectly fine for tabletop standard. It looks like you need to thin your paints a little though. That would make a massive difference to the finish.

How do you thin your paints? Just add water? I mean I dont know if I trust myself to do all that I mean I barely trust myself with paints as they are, let alone doing any of your fancy pancy tricks

 Thortek wrote:


Was she hot? I'd totally bang a cougar for some minis.

Wanna see some Cygnar? Witty coments? Mediocre painting? Check this out! 
   
Made in gb
Morphing Obliterator




Medrengard

Lol. Its easy dude. Just add water a little at a time until you have a milk like consistency. You'll notice a huge improvement in your painting. No brush marks for instance.

12000 pts
5000pts 
   
Made in gb
Gun Mage





In the Chaos Wastes, Killing the Chaos scum of the north

NoodleArt wrote:Theyre not bad! Id be fine playing against these if i actally played warmachine or hordes, whichever one it is

Warmachine, Cygnar to be exact

tomcat31 wrote:Lol. Its easy dude. Just add water a little at a time until you have a milk like consistency. You'll notice a huge improvement in your painting. No brush marks for instance.


Hmmm...I might have to give that a go...I've I make any improvements who knows I might even make a P&M blog so people can see that you haven't got to be amazing to be proud of your paintjob

 Thortek wrote:


Was she hot? I'd totally bang a cougar for some minis.

Wanna see some Cygnar? Witty coments? Mediocre painting? Check this out! 
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






Painting its fine, but you should base it

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in gb
Gun Mage





In the Chaos Wastes, Killing the Chaos scum of the north

 Desubot wrote:
Painting its fine, but you should base it

*glares evilly at you* I will...eventually...maybe

 Thortek wrote:


Was she hot? I'd totally bang a cougar for some minis.

Wanna see some Cygnar? Witty coments? Mediocre painting? Check this out! 
   
Made in se
Focused Dark Angels Land Raider Pilot





Skovde, Sweden

 DukeBadham wrote:
 Desubot wrote:
Painting its fine, but you should base it

*glares evilly at you* I will...eventually...maybe


This really made me laugh

When it comes to fancy schmancy tricks you should only do it if you actually want to. I, myself, find the painting and modelling part to be what I enjoy best. Everyone is different.

EDIT: Oh, forgot, when it comes to paintjob I have seen way worse at tournaments If you think they are good enough then that is all that matters, if you want to evolve as a painter, this is a good place to learn.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/08/11 20:21:05


// Andreas

Dark Angels 4th Company (3,830pts) 950pts fully painted

 
   
Made in gb
Gun Mage





In the Chaos Wastes, Killing the Chaos scum of the north

Haha as long as my models dont look like I just dipped them a pot of paint from B&Q (tried that, didnt work very well, but when you have to have 50+ minis ready that night, you need to take a shortcut)

But thanks guys, you are all so sweet, have an internet cookie and an internet hug from me! (or just a cookie if you dont want the hug)

I MIGHT, big emphasis on might, give thinning the paints a go at my ironclad, I mean if it works out terrible, I am gonna replace him with a bigger badder model in my army anyway (shh, dont tell him I said that, he might start sulking during a game)

 Thortek wrote:


Was she hot? I'd totally bang a cougar for some minis.

Wanna see some Cygnar? Witty coments? Mediocre painting? Check this out! 
   
Made in gb
Morphing Obliterator




Medrengard

Lol. Tbh dude you should be proud of your painting. At least you're taking the time to paint your army. That in itself is applause worthy. Ive faced many "grey blob" armies myself and though I don't mind playing against them, its much better to seetwo ppainted armies on the table.

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5000pts 
   
Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Los Angeles, CA, USA

Just keep in mind, when thinning your paints, do NOT do it in the bottle. Get a cheap plastic pallette from your local art store and put some paint on it and add a bit of water. This will keep you from diluting your paint pots into uselessness. (Ask me how I know)
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






 Todosi wrote:
Just keep in mind, when thinning your paints, do NOT do it in the bottle. Get a cheap plastic pallette from your local art store and put some paint on it and add a bit of water. This will keep you from diluting your paint pots into uselessness. (Ask me how I know)


Iv never had that issue.

I should know i still have hold hex pots that are good and thinned with water.

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in us
Bloodthirsty Chaos Knight





Las Vegas

 DukeBadham wrote:
Haha as long as my models dont look like I just dipped them a pot of paint from B&Q (tried that, didnt work very well, but when you have to have 50+ minis ready that night, you need to take a shortcut)

But thanks guys, you are all so sweet, have an internet cookie and an internet hug from me! (or just a cookie if you dont want the hug)

I MIGHT, big emphasis on might, give thinning the paints a go at my ironclad, I mean if it works out terrible, I am gonna replace him with a bigger badder model in my army anyway (shh, dont tell him I said that, he might start sulking during a game)


Really annoying thing that no one told me about: thinning paints is half the battle. The other half of the battle is emptying your brush before using all that thinned paint. If you just thin your paint and try to slather them on like I did, you'll have runny paint flying everywhere and you'll make the ark of the covenant look like a Disney cartoon. Thin the paint a bit, dip the brush about halfway in, then press the tip lightly to a paper towel to draw out excess water. Then very LIGHTLY apply the thin paint, and if you do it right only a little will come out at a time.

Basing isn't so difficult, really, and adds a LOT to the mini in the end. I promise it's not scary. I actually enjoy basing more than I enjoy painting, most of the time, because you can get really cool effects very easily and really get creative. Glue, sand, drybrush, done is the most basic way to go, and that'll do miles for you on its own. Some static grass is a super easy and high impact addition too. Then you can start trying to get fancy if you want.

   
Made in gb
Gun Mage





In the Chaos Wastes, Killing the Chaos scum of the north

tomcat31 wrote:Lol. Tbh dude you should be proud of your painting. At least you're taking the time to paint your army. That in itself is applause worthy. Ive faced many "grey blob" armies myself and though I don't mind playing against them, its much better to seetwo ppainted armies on the table.

Ha ha yeah...*looks at the 2000points of brets, 1200 unpainted, the rest of my Cygnar, not yet primed, and my half built Tomb King Necroshpinx. which I never finished building let alone painting*

Todosi wrote:Just keep in mind, when thinning your paints, do NOT do it in the bottle. Get a cheap plastic pallette from your local art store and put some paint on it and add a bit of water. This will keep you from diluting your paint pots into uselessness. (Ask me how I know)

Thanks for that advice, I'll see what I can do next time I am in town, if not then I will just have to put the test of thinning the paints on hold.

Evertras wrote:
 DukeBadham wrote:
Haha as long as my models dont look like I just dipped them a pot of paint from B&Q (tried that, didnt work very well, but when you have to have 50+ minis ready that night, you need to take a shortcut)

But thanks guys, you are all so sweet, have an internet cookie and an internet hug from me! (or just a cookie if you dont want the hug)

I MIGHT, big emphasis on might, give thinning the paints a go at my ironclad, I mean if it works out terrible, I am gonna replace him with a bigger badder model in my army anyway (shh, dont tell him I said that, he might start sulking during a game)


Really annoying thing that no one told me about: thinning paints is half the battle. The other half of the battle is emptying your brush before using all that thinned paint. If you just thin your paint and try to slather them on like I did, you'll have runny paint flying everywhere and you'll make the ark of the covenant look like a Disney cartoon. Thin the paint a bit, dip the brush about halfway in, then press the tip lightly to a paper towel to draw out excess water. Then very LIGHTLY apply the thin paint, and if you do it right only a little will come out at a time.

Basing isn't so difficult, really, and adds a LOT to the mini in the end. I promise it's not scary. I actually enjoy basing more than I enjoy painting, most of the time, because you can get really cool effects very easily and really get creative. Glue, sand, drybrush, done is the most basic way to go, and that'll do miles for you on its own. Some static grass is a super easy and high impact addition too. Then you can start trying to get fancy if you want.


Haha I know how to base thanks to the school league, where you got extra points for basing your models, I think after I have finshed painting my army, then I will have a look at basing, although when I start getting some Morrowan models for the themed army I wanna make, I might invest in some fancy resin bases (anyone know a seller who sells bases that look like I am fighting in a church or old building?)

But again thank you for your advice, seriously guys, this is why I am proud to be part of the dakka cult

 Thortek wrote:


Was she hot? I'd totally bang a cougar for some minis.

Wanna see some Cygnar? Witty coments? Mediocre painting? Check this out! 
   
Made in gb
Gun Mage





In the Chaos Wastes, Killing the Chaos scum of the north

Fellow members of Dakka, I come to you with a question:

What one of the following looks more like a Church, as I plan to Do some Morrowan stuff later, and I want all my religous models to look like they are based in a church? (All these are from Micro art Studios)

One:
Spoiler:

Two:
Spoiler:

Three:
Spoiler:


To be honest, I am leaning towards three being the best option, or one, but opinions? (This is for the warmachine models that are Morrowan (i.e. Gallant, Constance Blaize, Precursor Knights, Harlan Versh, and my conversions))

 Thortek wrote:


Was she hot? I'd totally bang a cougar for some minis.

Wanna see some Cygnar? Witty coments? Mediocre painting? Check this out! 
   
Made in gb
Thermo-Optical Hac Tao





Gosport, UK

When people say thin down paints, well I tried it when I started painting, and it went all blotchy when I put it on the model, like you could see all the black underneath. Is this meant to happen, did I water them down too far..?

I'd be perfectly happy to play those models, better than mine -.-

And I think number 3 looks best for a church. Where are they from? Any of the three might work quite well for some 30k Word Bearers...

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/08/13 11:36:18


 
   
Made in gb
Gun Mage





In the Chaos Wastes, Killing the Chaos scum of the north

ImAGeek wrote:
When people say thin down paints, well I tried it when I started painting, and it went all blotchy when I put it on the model, like you could see all the black underneath. Is this meant to happen, did I water them down too far..?

I'd be perfectly happy to play those models, better than mine -.-

And I think number 3 looks best for a church. Where are they from? Any of the three might work quite well for some 30k Word Bearers...


I'm sure your models are much better then mine!

And these are from Micro Art Studios, a store based in Poland: http://shop.microartstudio.com/
From 1-3

1 is Temple Bases, Round 40mm (2): http://shop.microartstudio.com/temple-bases-round-40mm-2-p-1154.html

2 is Shrine Bases, WRound 40mm (2): http://shop.microartstudio.com/shrine-bases-wround-40mm-2-p-709.html

3 is Mosaic Bases, Wround 40mm (2): http://shop.microartstudio.com/mosaic-bases-wround-40mm-2-p-1180.html

If you wanna look at their bases: http://shop.microartstudio.com/battle-bases-c-3.html

All the bases they do come in 25mm, 30mm, 40mm etc. and I really would buy some now if not for the fact I actually own less then a pound to my name

 Thortek wrote:


Was she hot? I'd totally bang a cougar for some minis.

Wanna see some Cygnar? Witty coments? Mediocre painting? Check this out! 
   
Made in ca
Angry Blood Angel Assault marine





ImAGeek wrote:
When people say thin down paints, well I tried it when I started painting, and it went all blotchy when I put it on the model, like you could see all the black underneath. Is this meant to happen, did I water them down too far..?
quote]

Nope, the water mixture should be just fine! seeing black is perfectly normal, as typical paint colours requires 2-3 coats of paint to completly cover the black primer.

The end results with multiple coats of paint is a smooth thin finish compared to a streaked blobs of paints from 1 thick coat.
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





tomcat31 wrote:
Lol. Its easy dude. Just add water a little at a time until you have a milk like consistency. You'll notice a huge improvement in your painting. No brush marks for instance.
Have you ever tried painting with milk? Everyone uses the "milk like consistency" saying, which was pretty meaningless to me because I never painted with milk. So I tried it. Obviously didn't actually *paint* with it, but just put some on my palette to see what sort of consistency it was since everyone uses it as an example.

I find milk is heaps thinner than what you should have your paints for brush painting. Even for airbrush painting, I normally won't go near as thin as that. It's about as thin if not thinner than what I'd use for a wash.

Or maybe the milk we get here isn't as thick as it is elsewhere, I dunno, lol. I think if you genuinely thin your paints to the consistency of milk you'll have a hell of a time when you're starting out because the paints will be too thin for most techniques. It might be the correct consistency for a few techniques (like gradual blending over the course of many many layers), but not for basic block painting like most newbies are doing.

Getting the correct consistency when you're just starting off is actually quite hard... I recommend finding someone who knows how to paint reasonably well and letting them show you. It's actually quite hard to describe. Thinning is really important to improving your painting, but if you don't already have good brush control it can be difficult to understand in words. If you can't find someone who can show you, check out some youtube videos. Like, have a look at this one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9bDoIMCSfk&list=UUwdh3MTrFq3sXlB4ct8B-Fg

It's not teaching you how to paint competition quality or anything, but it just gives you an idea how much paint you should have on your brush and how thin the paint should be. I know it's showing "layer paints", but just watch it at 1080 and fill your screen so you can see up close what's going on, because the same applies to applying basecoats as well.

Look at what the paint is like as it leaves his brush and goes on to the model. It's nice and smooth. It might not cover in 1 layer, but the paint is smoothly being applied to the model, the paint itself isn't adding any texture because it's thin enough. If it were thicker, it would be leaving little ridges and brush stroke marks/texture.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/08/13 12:48:26


 
   
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Thane of Dol Guldur




I'd happily play against
   
Made in ca
Hard-Wired Sentinel Pilot






Somewhere just South of nowhere

Looks like a fine tabletop standard to me. I'd happily play against them rather than a mismatch of painted and unpainted models.

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Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut






Toronto

 Aeroroot wrote:
Looks like a fine tabletop standard to me. I'd happily play against them rather than a mismatch of painted and unpainted models.
well, duh!

Adepta Sororitas: 3,800 Points
Adeptus Custodes: 8,100 Points
Adeptus Mechanicus: 8,400 Points
Alpha Legion: 4,400 Points
Astra Militarum: 7,500 Points
Dark Angels: 16,800 Points
Imperial Knights: 12,500 Points
Legio Titanicus: 5,500 Points
Slaaneshi Daemons: 3,800 Points
 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Don't thin your paint until it is milky consistency. (now days milk is the consistency of water). Thin them until they no longer leave brush marks when used on a test material.
   
Made in us
Combat Jumping Rasyat





Palitine Il

If your painting to play I'd say there great. Now if you were painting as the primary goal and games second they you want to work on multiple thin layers and a greater variation between shadows and highlights.

As for bases I'd go for 3. I don't realy see underground wires in any Iron Kingdoms building warjacks would be fighting in. The only temples that might have them in my wild a guess would be newer ones in major cities. Also the script on 2 doesn't look right to me for Cygnarian (center of the Morrowan faith) it almost looks closer to Cryxian to my eye.
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






 DukeBadham wrote:
Fellow members of Dakka, I come to you with a question:

What one of the following looks more like a Church, as I plan to Do some Morrowan stuff later, and I want all my religous models to look like they are based in a church? (All these are from Micro art Studios)

One:
Spoiler:

Two:
Spoiler:

Three:
Spoiler:


To be honest, I am leaning towards three being the best option, or one, but opinions? (This is for the warmachine models that are Morrowan (i.e. Gallant, Constance Blaize, Precursor Knights, Harlan Versh, and my conversions))


3

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in us
Bloodthirsty Chaos Knight





Las Vegas

emmagine wrote:
Don't thin your paint until it is milky consistency. (now days milk is the consistency of water). Thin them until they no longer leave brush marks when used on a test material.


I wish someone had told me this when I started. I got turned off to thinning paint for a while because of it.

   
Made in us
Grey Knight Psionic Stormraven Pilot






Any paint on the table top is better than unpainted models. I would rather play a poorly painted army than one not painted at all. That said I would definitely rate yours as decently painted. Multiple colors, a good color scheme, highlighting, it all adds up to a nice looking gaming army. Congrats.

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Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Los Angeles, CA, USA

Generally when people say the consistency of milk, they mean whole milk. Most people buy 1% or 2% milk which is much thinner in viscosity. If it helps you, think of the consistency of cream instead.
   
 
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