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So i found this image on google while looking up WoC paint schemes. I want to do a whiteish armor for my warriors(it looks more menacing imo) and I was wondering what your guys take was on how this was painted. Im an average painter no golden demon winner by any means. Does anyone have any ideas how the WHITE was done on this armor? I have a feeling it isnt as simple as base, wash, highlight. It looks like there is some blending going on.

It looks to me like in fact some off-white (rather brownish than greyish) was used as base colour, then a brownish shade was used (some equivalent to half Nuln Oil, half Agrax Earthshad I'd say). The painter made sure that some of this stayed around the recesses of the bolts. Then the main effect comes from using pure white for cleanly painted highlights and the blood spatter.

Since im starting with a black undercoat i was thinking of doing a layer of zandri dust to bring me up followed by another coat of rakarth flesh and laying on pallid witch flesh. Washing nuln/agrax and hightlighting with a white. Does that sound about right? Im colorblind so i have had to memorize color progressions and shading to get colors right vs looking at them.

I feel like it was probably based off Charadon granite base then layered up to white

Think it would be simple enough to use white mixed with a bit of stormvermin fur to get that slightly cold grey, then wash brown/blacks into the recesses and highlight pure white after.

Thanks for the advice. Ill give it a shot and see how it goes

Looks like white, with a whole model agrax earthshade heavy wash. You can see the pooling on his right hip. Possibly black on there too.

 namiel wrote:
Since im starting with a black undercoat i was thinking of doing a layer of zandri dust to bring me up followed by another coat of rakarth flesh and laying on pallid witch flesh. Washing nuln/agrax and hightlighting with a white. Does that sound about right? Im colorblind so i have had to memorize color progressions and shading to get colors right vs looking at them.

I don't think that undercoating black will do you any big favors. The near-white colors take more layers to reach opacity, and tend to show brushstrokes more, so if your model is going to be very light-colored, you're better off priming white (or light grey, or bone).

In the GW range, I would probably make my first basecoat with Celestra Grey. Then, you have two choices: either paint the color that's there (it will be some stone-type color), or achieve it with a wash. I think that painter used a wash, because you can see drying marks on the right hip plate, and a gradient on the bottom left one (opposite from the skull). Agrax Earthshade seems like a good guess.

If you go this route, you want to prepare the rivets/bolts FIRST. For that matter, you pretty much want to do everything other than the armor plates before you wash the plates, though you may wish to test on one plate. This is because the last thing on earth you want to try to do is to correct a large armored plate once it has a wash on it (you'll never mix paint that's the same color) -- this is also why I almost never wash an entire plate of armor, but anyhow. So, paint the rivet black, then wash it with Nuhln Oil, and clean up around it. Then wash the whole armor plate Agrax. Go thin, because you can always wash it a second layer, or wash it a second time with Nuhln to get it closer to your desired color.

The highlight looks a lot like Pallid Wych Flesh.

Alternatively, what I would do is settle for a color for the armor plates that I'm happy with, and only wash the recesses, since this lets me paint the armor plates first. I don't think there's an exact color I can think of off hand, but Trollblood Highlight from P3 is probably close. If you're not worried about reproducibility, you could always mix up your own paint, too.

For the red splatters of blood, you can do that by flicking Blood of the Blood God against the model with a stipple brush. There is a video on Games Workshop's channel, I believe that demonstrates the technical paint and shows you how to achieve exactly that effect.

I did a Malal project like this a while ago. I based with matte brown and built up very thin brushed layers of off white from there (grey, cream, eggshell) painted other colors/details then did a sepia wash to bring it together before highlighting (white, edges) and cleanup.

I gave it to my local venue as part of a 2-force demo army I'm building for them. I'll see if I can grab a pic this weekend and you can see if you like the final effect.

Boggy Man wrote:I did a Malal project like this a while ago. I based with matte brown and built up very thin brushed layers of off white from there (grey, cream, eggshell) painted other colors/details then did a sepia wash to bring it together before highlighting (white, edges) and cleanup.

I gave it to my local venue as part of a 2-force demo army I'm building for them. I'll see if I can grab a pic this weekend and you can see if you like the final effect.

awesome thank you

Talys wrote:

 namiel wrote:
Since im starting with a black undercoat i was thinking of doing a layer of zandri dust to bring me up followed by another coat of rakarth flesh and laying on pallid witch flesh. Washing nuln/agrax and hightlighting with a white. Does that sound about right? Im colorblind so i have had to memorize color progressions and shading to get colors right vs looking at them.

I don't think that undercoating black will do you any big favors. The near-white colors take more layers to reach opacity, and tend to show brushstrokes more, so if your model is going to be very light-colored, you're better off priming white (or light grey, or bone).

In the GW range, I would probably make my first basecoat with Celestra Grey. Then, you have two choices: either paint the color that's there (it will be some stone-type color), or achieve it with a wash. I think that painter used a wash, because you can see drying marks on the right hip plate, and a gradient on the bottom left one (opposite from the skull). Agrax Earthshade seems like a good guess.

If you go this route, you want to prepare the rivets/bolts FIRST. For that matter, you pretty much want to do everything other than the armor plates before you wash the plates, though you may wish to test on one plate. This is because the last thing on earth you want to try to do is to correct a large armored plate once it has a wash on it (you'll never mix paint that's the same color) -- this is also why I almost never wash an entire plate of armor, but anyhow. So, paint the rivet black, then wash it with Nuhln Oil, and clean up around it. Then wash the whole armor plate Agrax. Go thin, because you can always wash it a second layer, or wash it a second time with Nuhln to get it closer to your desired color.

The highlight looks a lot like Pallid Wych Flesh.

Alternatively, what I would do is settle for a color for the armor plates that I'm happy with, and only wash the recesses, since this lets me paint the armor plates first. I don't think there's an exact color I can think of off hand, but Trollblood Highlight from P3 is probably close. If you're not worried about reproducibility, you could always mix up your own paint, too.

For the red splatters of blood, you can do that by flicking Blood of the Blood God against the model with a stipple brush. There is a video on Games Workshop's channel, I believe that demonstrates the technical paint and shows you how to achieve exactly that effect.

the reason im starting from black is 1) i always have started from black even my deathwing and 2) is i have 2 full cans of black primer, im using them.

Do you think doing the celestra grey, washing with a watered down nuln, then washing again with watered down agrax , then highlight with the pallid wych flesh could work? To me doing a base without a layer seems odd but i cant really see a 3rd color in there between the highlight and base.

Sure, it can work, though you have to be conscious of not making it too dark.

I would "water down" with Lahmian medium, by the way, not water.

The trouble that you'll have, as I mentioned in my previous post is that one stray brush stroke of silver (from the armor), and you're screwed. You'll never be able mix on a palette anything that will look like paint + 2 washes. Because you're thinning the wash, you might also have trouble reproducing it, if you're creating a squad. Also, it's not always easy to get the entire model a consistent wash. This is why I actually prefer to mix the paint color (and wash only the recesses) rather than color armor plates with washes.

There are lots of models that have base with no layer -- for instance, the studio version of Dark Angels is Caliban Green, with Nuhln Oil in the crevices (then highlights). There are also many, many cases where the best thing to do is base + wash crevices + clean up with base, as this produces a very sharp, crisp model -- as opposed to washing the whole model, which is quick, but has the potential to muddy up flat plates where it doesn't settle/dry perfectly.

Good luck, and hope to see your finished product

Thank you guys for the help. I have issues with colors so trying to color match is near impossible. If I get motivated I'm going to do a p&m blog about it. The one lucky thing I have going on for me is work provides me with syringes to get more exact paint mixtures

 namiel wrote:
Thank you guys for the help. I have issues with colors so trying to color match is near impossible. If I get motivated I'm going to do a p&m blog about it. The one lucky thing I have going on for me is work provides me with syringes to get more exact paint mixtures

If you're going to make a paint mixture, mix it up in a little dropper bottle -- you can buy them at most dollar stores. That way, you can have enough for your whole project

Sorry about the delay, and the fuzzy cellphone shots; it was a weird weekend;

I would say the easiest would be black and white Brush on Primers. Then build the proper layers. I'd have to say some kind of very light grey grey was used. But as previously mentioned. White as a base on the "whitish parts" Washes are used. Probably Agrax Eartshade. I would use Army Painter Strong Tone from the dropper bottles instead. And again very localised thinned black wash around the rivets. Personally I'd use a very small brush for wahing the rivets (a proper junk brush, for feths sake don't use your Series 7's or 8404's for this).

But other than that.
Brush on primer in black and white would be my tip.