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Hey guys, so this was my first time using Green Stuff. I bought a Beast of Nurgle at an auction, but unfortunately it was missing the back piece which connects the head and body. I patched it up and added some holes to simulate corrosion, but it still felt lacking, so I threw in some tentacles. Overall, I really like Green Stuff, but it felt hard to work with at first. I tried using some Vaseline to help model with it and that worked, but the Vaseline is still on the putty. Anyone have any tips for using Green Stuff in general?

Edit: Modified picture size.

the pictures are too big dude...its hard to see whats going on really...maybe focus out a little so we can see details. i can see however that your GS has finger prints in it. this might not be an issue for you but it could show when you come to paint it. id advise getting a clay moulding tool to smooth out your gs when modelling it

looking good dude
Vasaline is commonly used, although I use e45 cream as I have tonnes and it absorbs into the skin really easily when done. I second some smooth tools, clay shapers are cheap and easy to get hold of and work wonders.

With the tentacles I noticed that they have been ever so slightly squished when being put in place. Personally I roll out my cables then I leave them for about an hour, this way they become more solid but still flexible, makes it much easier to put them on this way without ruining them.

Secondly, for a little variation, try rolling them out but using a fine hair comb, the comb will give them a nice grooved effect Or add some pustules? nurgle style. I find, make a small ball, press it onto the model (I use a dab of superglue on the underside - really helps GS stick to GS thats already dry), give a little push so it flattens just a tad (so now its an opal shape) Wait till it dries, then around it I put more GS and make it look like skin bursting. 1 Sec il grab an image.


You can see where I used the lighter GS as balls, then put skin around and over it. Little hard to see in this image

Solar Shock wrote:
looking good dude
Vasaline is commonly used, although I use e45 cream as I have tonnes and it absorbs into the skin really easily when done. I second some smooth tools, clay shapers are cheap and easy to get hold of and work wonders.

With the tentacles I noticed that they have been ever so slightly squished when being put in place. Personally I roll out my cables then I leave them for about an hour, this way they become more solid but still flexible, makes it much easier to put them on this way without ruining them.

Secondly, for a little variation, try rolling them out but using a fine hair comb, the comb will give them a nice grooved effect Or add some pustules? nurgle style. I find, make a small ball, press it onto the model (I use a dab of superglue on the underside - really helps GS stick to GS thats already dry), give a little push so it flattens just a tad (so now its an opal shape) Wait till it dries, then around it I put more GS and make it look like skin bursting. 1 Sec il grab an image.


You can see where I used the lighter GS as balls, then put skin around and over it. Little hard to see in this image

Dude, not quite sure what that is, but that is nasty also, thanks for the tips. I think clay shapers are definitely next up on my list to buy. Like I said, it's my first time using GS and I really like it, but it seems kind of finnicky. Also, I saw some people carve GS for fine points like horns or wings. How long does GS take to cure to the point you can trim it with a knife?

You need you some of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/251584452120?lpid=82&chn=ps


Also I don't know if you want this tip or not, but it is one that I use. Basically when I use the sculpting tools, I will often lick them to get some spit on the end (not too much mind you, just a little). I think human spit works way better than Vasaline to smooth out and sculpt GS. I got a lot of GS work in my gallery if you want to see how this technique worked out...

 Lord Scythican wrote:
You need you some of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/251584452120?lpid=82&chn=ps


Also I don't know if you want this tip or not, but it is one that I use. Basically when I use the sculpting tools, I will often lick them to get some spit on the end (not too much mind you, just a little). I think human spit works way better than Vasaline to smooth out and sculpt GS. I got a lot of GS work in my gallery if you want to see how this technique worked out...

Bahaha. Actually, those tools are great. I think I need to pick those up.

ok,

GS - when dry typically has these properties. Rubbery (ie can flex a little) Doesn't sand well. Its pretty hard to do much to GS after its dried in terms of filling drilling etc.

Milliput (another 2 part epoxy like GS) - Dries hard and brittle, but sands really well.

So what we do is! mix the 2! or the 4 colours to be exact Id highly recommend this, you simply mix them to get a blend of the properties. You can keep the flexibility and resistance to being simply snapped from the GS, while adding in the ability for it to be sanded. It allows you to tailor it. For example, for power cables that are gona be hanging, or exposed, I use a more GS based mix, this helps it flex when any force is put on it by accident. But for body work,or bulk shapes il use a more milliput mix, giving it a nice hard, sandable surface.

I would honestly recommend trying this, its really simple, plus milliput is cheaper I find than GS, so it goes further. I'd also make sure you 'dont' buy your GS from GW, as you'll pay through your nose and they will keep the bogies.

oh and the ork is a loota, its his looted nid weapon da mad dok kindly attached for him, although da doc hadn't exactly told him how before he underwent da scalpel

Solar Shock wrote:
ok,

GS - when dry typically has these properties. Rubbery (ie can flex a little) Doesn't sand well. Its pretty hard to do much to GS after its dried in terms of filling drilling etc.

Milliput (another 2 part epoxy like GS) - Dries hard and brittle, but sands really well.

So what we do is! mix the 2! or the 4 colours to be exact Id highly recommend this, you simply mix them to get a blend of the properties. You can keep the flexibility and resistance to being simply snapped from the GS, while adding in the ability for it to be sanded. It allows you to tailor it. For example, for power cables that are gona be hanging, or exposed, I use a more GS based mix, this helps it flex when any force is put on it by accident. But for body work,or bulk shapes il use a more milliput mix, giving it a nice hard, sandable surface.

I would honestly recommend trying this, its really simple, plus milliput is cheaper I find than GS, so it goes further. I'd also make sure you 'dont' buy your GS from GW, as you'll pay through your nose and they will keep the bogies.

oh and the ork is a loota, its his looted nid weapon da mad dok kindly attached for him, although da doc hadn't exactly told him how before he underwent da scalpel

I have never heard of this before. I will try it out for sure!

Solar Shock wrote:
ok,

GS - when dry typically has these properties. Rubbery (ie can flex a little) Doesn't sand well. Its pretty hard to do much to GS after its dried in terms of filling drilling etc.

Milliput (another 2 part epoxy like GS) - Dries hard and brittle, but sands really well.

So what we do is! mix the 2! or the 4 colours to be exact Id highly recommend this, you simply mix them to get a blend of the properties. You can keep the flexibility and resistance to being simply snapped from the GS, while adding in the ability for it to be sanded. It allows you to tailor it. For example, for power cables that are gona be hanging, or exposed, I use a more GS based mix, this helps it flex when any force is put on it by accident. But for body work,or bulk shapes il use a more milliput mix, giving it a nice hard, sandable surface.

I would honestly recommend trying this, its really simple, plus milliput is cheaper I find than GS, so it goes further. I'd also make sure you 'dont' buy your GS from GW, as you'll pay through your nose and they will keep the bogies.

oh and the ork is a loota, its his looted nid weapon da mad dok kindly attached for him, although da doc hadn't exactly told him how before he underwent da scalpel

Sweet. I will check that out when I hit the store later. Also, that Loota got a raw deal

Lots of excellent tips already, especially about mixing GS and milliput. I'll just add a couple more.

I like milliput myself, but while it's cheap and generally available here in it's native UK, there can be a bit of an import markup in US stores. There are other hard-curing alternatives though, like the US's own plumbing/repair putty, rezolin a/b. Also, more 'purpose built' sculpting putties like magic sculp and apoxie sculp (also aSculpt and cold clay here in blighty, FYI) which are more expensive than milliput but also a bit easier to get a hang of. All that said, milliput does seem to be readily available and recommended in the US.
Here's a great article demonstrating a mix of green stuff and apoxie sculpt. As well as combining the cured properties, as Solar mentions, the mix of GS and pretty much any hard-curing claylike putty also combines their uncured properties, and reduces the undesirable ones. For instance, the springy elasticity of green stuff and the slight 'crumbliness' of claylike putties modify each other to reach a happy medium.

If you just use green stuff, adding more yellow is generally a good thing. The manufacturer of green stuff, Polymeric Systems, recommends a mix of 1.5 parts of yellow to 1 part of blue (or 3:2 yellow:blue) for general sculpting. This makes it softer, initially stickier, and keeps it workable for longer. All good stuff. If you want a stiffer mix that cures a little sooner and is a little harder afterwards, add some more blue back in.

What tools do you use? Clay shapers are indeed very useful for smoothing, but IMO nothing beats a metal tool or two for plain old manhandling of the putty and marking fine details. For the finest quality I'd recommend finding a retailer of dental wax carvers, particularly on ebay, who often sell them quite cheaply. I've got a couple off ebay myself, for about £2-3 each. IMO the most useful types are the zahle, lecron, vehe and hylin. (Yep, the different shapes you find in any packet of cheap wax carvers or metal sculpting tools all have their own names) Alternatively, you might find you like, and do well with, other repurposed items: Hobby knives, sewing/darning needles, toothpicks etc. Shaped by filing and polished to tastes, or not.

I don't know if I'd recommend licking greenstuff-smeared tools. I'm not the sculpting police, and there's a quote about the most toxic ingredients of green stuff being the food colouring that makes it blue and yellow, but the amines in any epoxy putty can cause sensitization and subsequent allergy-type reactions. I'd be concerned about how sticking it right in your mouth might affect that process. If you want to use spit as lube, maybe get a shallow dish or lid to hawk into.
Lots of people use Vaseline, but that generally has to be washed off the sculpt afterwards. Lots also use water. I do. Though to avoid problems with too much water dripping off the tools and preventing the putty from sticking, or obscuring details, I do what I just suggested for spit: I use a shallow dish, with a piece of damp sponge. (I have enough old blister sponges accumulated from past years to last me a couple of decades...)

Lastly: nice work. You've got some interesting gribbly texture in there.

 Vermis wrote:
Lots of excellent tips already, especially about mixing GS and milliput. I'll just add a couple more.

I like milliput myself, but while it's cheap and generally available here in it's native UK, there can be a bit of an import markup in US stores. There are other hard-curing alternatives though, like the US's own plumbing/repair putty, rezolin a/b. Also, more 'purpose built' sculpting putties like magic sculp and apoxie sculp (also aSculpt and cold clay here in blighty, FYI) which are more expensive than milliput but also a bit easier to get a hang of. All that said, milliput does seem to be readily available and recommended in the US.
Here's a great article demonstrating a mix of green stuff and apoxie sculpt. As well as combining the cured properties, as Solar mentions, the mix of GS and pretty much any hard-curing claylike putty also combines their uncured properties, and reduces the undesirable ones. For instance, the springy elasticity of green stuff and the slight 'crumbliness' of claylike putties modify each other to reach a happy medium.

If you just use green stuff, adding more yellow is generally a good thing. The manufacturer of green stuff, Polymeric Systems, recommends a mix of 1.5 parts of yellow to 1 part of blue (or 3:2 yellow:blue) for general sculpting. This makes it softer, initially stickier, and keeps it workable for longer. All good stuff. If you want a stiffer mix that cures a little sooner and is a little harder afterwards, add some more blue back in.

What tools do you use? Clay shapers are indeed very useful for smoothing, but IMO nothing beats a metal tool or two for plain old manhandling of the putty and marking fine details. For the finest quality I'd recommend finding a retailer of dental wax carvers, particularly on ebay, who often sell them quite cheaply. I've got a couple off ebay myself, for about £2-3 each. IMO the most useful types are the zahle, lecron, vehe and hylin. (Yep, the different shapes you find in any packet of cheap wax carvers or metal sculpting tools all have their own names) Alternatively, you might find you like, and do well with, other repurposed items: Hobby knives, sewing/darning needles, toothpicks etc. Shaped by filing and polished to tastes, or not.

I don't know if I'd recommend licking greenstuff-smeared tools. I'm not the sculpting police, and there's a quote about the most toxic ingredients of green stuff being the food colouring that makes it blue and yellow, but the amines in any epoxy putty can cause sensitization and subsequent allergy-type reactions. I'd be concerned about how sticking it right in your mouth might affect that process. If you want to use spit as lube, maybe get a shallow dish or lid to hawk into.
Lots of people use Vaseline, but that generally has to be washed off the sculpt afterwards. Lots also use water. I do. Though to avoid problems with too much water dripping off the tools and preventing the putty from sticking, or obscuring details, I do what I just suggested for spit: I use a shallow dish, with a piece of damp sponge. (I have enough old blister sponges accumulated from past years to last me a couple of decades...)

Lastly: nice work. You've got some interesting gribbly texture in there.

Thank you I feel like Nurgle is the easiest to start with as you can do almost anything with tentacles or blobs and it still fits the theme

 jreilly89 wrote:


Thank you I feel like Nurgle is the easiest to start with as you can do almost anything with tentacles or blobs and it still fits the theme

You literally can't go wrong with nurgle. Its an impossibility Grab some arms, stick together, add some sculpting stuff and ta-da! you have a spawn! I highly reccommend nurle, I've always considered it myself, the freedom to simply add tentacles and organic shapes is so simple and so easy