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So just got myself a Contemptor Patter Dreadnought. I'm ill familiar with magnet sizes so I'd like some recommendations for what would work best for it. This could also really help for any other Dreads and other vehicles. Oh and magnet sizes for a Stormraven! Much appreciated!
"We may be few, and our enemies many. Yet so long as there remains one of us still fighting, one who still rages in the name of justice and truth, then by the Allfather, the galaxy shall yet know hope."
I've not magnetized those models, so I cannot offer help with size.
What I will state is that you make sure the magnets you use are N52 in strength. These are the strongest normally, and will make a HUGE difference in your magnetizing projects. ALWAYS use N52. IF the packaging doesn't list a strength, then they are more likely the weaker N40 or N42 magnets... These are usually cheaper and more prolific, and quite frankly a complete waste of your money. Spend the extra few cents and buy N52, you will be glad you did. It will save you a ton of heartache later on when your parts fall off with the slightest of breezes...
One other thing to consider is placement of your magnets. Make sure your magnets are not conflicting with their polarities. I did a Flyrant magnetization that I had to redo because the polarity of the head magnets were weakening the magnets in the wings... Having to dig out magnets after they are glued in is a real PITA...
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All Your Swords A miniatures progress Blog
I used 4mm dia x 4mm deep for my FW dreads.
I drilled the holes with a 4mm wood bit & recently bought some micro-screws to reduce the amount of magnets needed & get rid of the annoying polarity problem.
I drilled the holes by hand for maximum control & accuracy.
Check out my gallery here Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!!
bubber wrote:I used 4mm dia x 4mm deep for my FW dreads.
I drilled the holes with a 4mm wood bit & recently bought some micro-screws to reduce the amount of magnets needed & get rid of the annoying polarity problem.
I drilled the holes by hand for maximum control & accuracy.
Any chance you can further explain how to do this with a drill? Sorry if that seems dumb just never done something like this before ><
YourSwordisMine wrote:I've not magnetized those models, so I cannot offer help with size.
What I will state is that you make sure the magnets you use are N52 in strength. These are the strongest normally, and will make a HUGE difference in your magnetizing projects. ALWAYS use N52. IF the packaging doesn't list a strength, then they are more likely the weaker N40 or N42 magnets... These are usually cheaper and more prolific, and quite frankly a complete waste of your money. Spend the extra few cents and buy N52, you will be glad you did. It will save you a ton of heartache later on when your parts fall off with the slightest of breezes...
One other thing to consider is placement of your magnets. Make sure your magnets are not conflicting with their polarities. I did a Flyrant magnetization that I had to redo because the polarity of the head magnets were weakening the magnets in the wings... Having to dig out magnets after they are glued in is a real PITA...
Does the size of the magnet matter in regards to the placement to avoid the weakening or no?
"We may be few, and our enemies many. Yet so long as there remains one of us still fighting, one who still rages in the name of justice and truth, then by the Allfather, the galaxy shall yet know hope."
I mostly use 3/16" disks, 1/16" thick. Grade N42. Yes, N52 is stronger, but even small N32 magnets have their uses (what I use to attach smaller fantasy plastics to steel movement trays - just one in the base and I can flip my Mantic Elves over and shake without a single model coming loose, but can still remove single models without snapping their dainty ankles) and the 'standard' strengths are a hell of a lot cheaper and easier to find. N52 is the new kid on the block - N42 has been the old standby for years.
With a bit of art in the application, smaller, weaker magnets are superior, in my mind. For high-torque joints, take the weight with a pin or two and use a smaller magnet for stability. For broad parts, use several of the smaller magnets to create secure attachment without needing to apply a ton of force to remove the part. The only time I've ever needed anything larger/stronger than the aforementioned size was when magnetizing the weapon arms on a scratchbuilt Warhound titan, which took two 3/16"x3/32" disks to secure a fender washer in each socket. That's well beyond the scope of a Contemptor.
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bubber wrote:I used 4mm dia x 4mm deep for my FW dreads.
I drilled the holes with a 4mm wood bit & recently bought some micro-screws to reduce the amount of magnets needed & get rid of the annoying polarity problem.
I drilled the holes by hand for maximum control & accuracy.
Any chance you can further explain how to do this with a drill? Sorry if that seems dumb just never done something like this before ><
Basically I held it with my fingers. It takes a bit of time but isn't hard.
Check out my gallery here Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!!