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So, I'm working on a Big Squiggoth conversion, made from a toy elephant. I'm thinking about removing the ears and the trunk, and sculpt a jaw where the trunk used to be. Any ideas what materials should be used for the sculpting process? Will normal Green Stuff work?

Yes GS should work fine.

Ah what you want is to have a base of polystyrene or whatever, supported on some brass rods. You then do green stuff over the surface because other wise it will sag, and waste green stuff.

 Matthew wrote:
Will normal Green Stuff work?

Yes, although it can get a bit pricey if the sculpted object will be large, especially if you're buying GS from GW. Take a look at these two topics...

http://minisculpture.co.uk/index.php?topic=601.0
http://minisculpture.co.uk/index.php?topic=52.0

No list of shops and supplies in Sweden, unfortunately, though if you know of any I'll gladly add them.

For larger sculpts and conversions, the claylike putties are generally recommended. Stuff like milliput, magic sculp, apoxie sculpt, asculpt etc., that feel like soft clay when modelling and that cure rock-hard. Their softness makes it easier to manipulate larger amounts, and they're usually cheaper than green stuff too, even from cheaper non-GW suppliers. They also retain sharper edges and are a lot more easily carved and sanded than GS. You can also modify the properties of each kind of putty by mixing in some of the other type. E.g. making claylike putties a little firmer and less 'crumbly' by mixing in green stuff, or making green stuff a little looser and less springy by mixing in a little claylike putty.
I'm not sure how easily available they are in your part of the world, or if there are any local variants; but I once knew a guy from Sweden who liked apoxie sculpt and other Aves products, and I've seen guys from as far away as Australia talk about using milliput. Hopefully, if you want to try any, it won't be too difficult to get your hands on them.

The only place I can buy GS from in Sweden is GW. You now that clay that you had to bake in the oven to make it hard, will that work?

Not if its going to be attached to the plastic elephant when you put it in the oven An ambitious way to start your sculpting journey!. I'm still trying get purity seals right haha Good luck!

Yeah, the sculpting will be done separately, and glued on to the elephant. The clay hardens in the oven, but I'm not sure how strong/paintable it is. My plan is to make a rough shape from the clay, and then making details with GS.

I see no issue with your plan.

Rough forming with polymer clay (the 'bake to harden' stuff, e.g. FIMO, Sculpey, etc.) and detailing with GS will work, provided you bake the main form separately, as you plan. Polymer clays are pretty resilient, once hardened, especially in chunkier forms - thin sections and protrusions are liable to snap off with even moderate abuse, so I'd stick to the more resilient (due to their flexibility) epoxy putties, like Kneadatite/GS, for those.

Baked polymer clays take paint quite well and can be filed/carved/drilled/sanded to further refine the rough shape before detailing. GS should have no trouble sticking to it, either, and you can always add a little CA (superglue) for extra insurance. Since you can drill both the clay and the plastic model, I'd suggest pinning the jaw in place, for the sturdiest join.

There are types of polymer clay that are quite brittle after baking, and some that are sturdier. Super sculpey, one of the most well known, is actually one of the most brittle. (First time I heard of it was a reference to it's fragility!) Super sculpey firm (the grey one), fimo classic, cernit and a few others are stronger. Take a look at the second link I posted above, and go to the polymer clay strength test.