Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Hi guys, I'm sure this has been asked a thousand times over but I'm just gonna jump in anyways. I'm on the cusp of purchasing a professional grade airbrush and Im looking to spend between 150$-$200 on the airbrush alone. Is this going to get me something that high quality painters use? I've had cheapo airbrushes for a while now and they seem to be no better than glorified paint guns. Obviously I need something that has high detail capabilities. I currently have a compressor which I bought on a whim, I saw a pic floating around this forum. It's a harbor freight model. I'd say pretty good quality for the money anyways, but I know this is a factor. Point is, I don't want to buy something that simply will suffice. I'm pushing on to the next level, and while I hate that airbrushes have gotten so popular, there are a few things which I can appreciate that they bring to the table. "If you can't beat em....", any thoughts and advice will be greatly appreciated thanks in advance!

BB

Not saying a good expensive airbrush is bad, but don't expect it to do miracles. I have a $50 cheapo brush and it works pretty well for detail work (at least what I consider detailed work). I actually bought a slightly more expensive brush based on someone's recommendation and I use the cheapo one more for detail work because the more expensive one seems to clog more when you're spraying on that knife's edge of viscosity/pressure/spray distance that you need to do detail work.

But that said, if you have the money and want to try it you might as well.

But then I'm also far from a professional, so I'll let the pros give you their suggestions.

i just got this brush for details. Its great, has a very small needle and you can fine tune the paint to air ratio

http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-2020-2F-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B000BROVIO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1429283735&sr=8-1&keywords=sotar

It takes some time to get the paint mixture right for that small a nozzle but i love it.

steve

I'm not a pro by any means but I enjoy good hardware...

I got myself a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline, it was awesome compared to anything I have had before.

So I got myself a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution as a secondary (mostly to not have to switch needles between tasks)

The reason I recommend them are: VERY good build quality, smooth mechanics, very easy to clean, smart nozzle seal solution AND they are beautiful

Another reason to consider is spare parts and accessories. H&S are excellent on both.

This is what I have:

I know angel giraldez (I guess he's the mike mcvey of our time, all the girls are on his jock) uses the infinity model from h and s and its considerably more money. 331$ on Amazon. Do you know the difference between h and s evolution and evolution silver line? And am I going to end up wanting a 300$ airbrush in a year? Lol....

I wouldn't bother blowing 300 on a airbrush...

Grab a Badger Renegade Krome or Sotar 20/20 and your good to go for the detail portion. ( I even get away with doing base coats with the Krome just fine)

With the money you save Id grab a nice Badger air compressor to go with it

You can have a nice brush, but if your compressor is crap (or tankless) your expensive brush doesn't work great.

The difference between regular Evolution and Silverline is pretty much just the "paint volume control" on the back of the handle (basicly you twist it and choose the stop position for the trigger). I also have a fPc valve on the grip to control airflow... I rarely use it since it is too hard to get exact settings, my compressor does a much better job at that.

When it comes to evolution vs infinity... Infinity is a BEAUTIFUL airbrush BUT... the mechanics are pretty much exactly the same, the needles and nozzles fit both and most spare parts fit both, except the obvious things. It all comes down to personal preference.

I will eventually buy an Infinity, not because I need it or that is will improve my airbrush work, but rather that I am an idiot and as said, it is BEAUTIFUL.

Guys I really appreciate the tips. I've heard that about the compressor and I don't know whether my compressor is worthy. It was part of a kit from harbor freight that cost about 120$. Would you guys suggesting airbrushes post pics or links to your work so I can see it in action? Thanks again fellas

BB

I started with a cheapo Chinese airbrush. Upgraded to a H&S Silverline evolution 2 in 1. Couldn't be happier. You get 2mm and 4mm nozzle with respective needles and caps enabling you to swap out depending on the job at hand. It has excellent build quality. Really easy to clean, no mini spanners or any of that. Also the parts are interchangeable from mostly all of H&S brushes. For example, I bought the air cap from the infinity and placed on the evolution, no problem. ( I like being able to see the needle and also being able to clean any dry tip/backwash problems without removing the air cap). Good luck, whatever you choose.

Looks like the HandS 2-1 is a good buy with most of you guys recommending it. You just use water to clean it assuming you're using acrylics?

I use Vallejo paints and I do quick cleaning (for say paint change) pretty much in three steps.

1. Run water through to get most of the paint out
2. Run windex through to get some more
3. Lastly I use Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner to get the last of it

The Vallejo stuff is way better with the vallejo paints but I use the other steps to save a few bucks...

When I have to take a break and don't have time to clean the airbrush I leave the liquid from step 3 in the cup until I get back to make sure nothing gets stuck meanwhile. Just a touch on the trigger to make sure there is cleaner all the way to the tip.

Don't buy the compressor from harbor freight... if its the one im thinking of its tankless...
tankless = pointless, unless you are a beginner

Snoop can you link the badger air compressor you mentioned above? Im not sure what tankless means, but the dang thing is heavy and there's a little glass bottle type thing attached to it. Clearly I know jack about airbrushes in almost 30years of painting minis haha.

It sounds like a combo of the h/s dual and a nice compressor is a sure bet to go on.

Again thank you all for speedy useful info!

BB

My method is pretty similar to granander, but replace windex with 'Mr Muscle - Window and Glass'. I use Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner only at the end of the session, or if something is really stubborn. Also if you do get a H&S, the little cleaning tool is well worth it. Expensive for what it is, but worth it in my experience.

Ohh, I forgot about the cleaning kit... the brushes are fine but there are cheaper ones that are just as good BUT...



This little beauty has saved med ALOT of time. It is designed for quick and safe cleaning of the nozzle. Buildup in the nozzle is a classic problem with airbrushes. The cleaning needle can remove paint residue without brushes and solvents. WELL worth the money.

 Snoopdeville3 wrote:
Don't buy the compressor from harbor freight... if its the one im thinking of its tankless...
tankless = pointless, unless you are a beginner

I agree you should get a tanked one.... though it's a bit harsh to say tankless is pointless and for beginners. One of the best painters I know (know personally, not on the interwebs) uses a tanked compressor in his studio at work but uses a tankless compressor at home. When I bought my compressor off him I insisted on the tanked variety which was a bit more expensive and he was basically querying me as to why I was wasted money when the same compressor was cheaper without a tank.

But that said I like the tank. It lets me run higher pressures for short periods of time (sometimes useful for forcibly clearing a clog) and I imagine it would have to have a more consistent pressure (though maybe that's not true).

He's not a professional in the sense he doesn't paint for money, but he owns the local hobby store and the models he has in his display cabinet are quite impressive.

From what I have read and looked at myself. The biggest difference between with and without tank comes from the cheaper compressors.

My first compressor was without tank (and was crap in every way). The biggest problem I had was that it got so hot, the air was so warm it dried the paint instantly in the nozzle after running for a while. Comparing that to the Iwata SmartJet, still without a tank, they are worlds apart when it comes to quality. I have seen alot of good painters use the SmartJet and they seem perfectly happy, also it seems to be VERY silent.

My current compressor is with a tank and so was my last one and they both worked very well.

So what am I saying... I think without tank works for the average person if the quality and make of the compressor is good. If you want to go really cheap, try to find one with a tank.

It is also a matter of space, the tanked ones are, not surprising, double the size and then some.

AllSeeingSkink wrote:
I like the tank. It lets me run higher pressures for short periods of time (sometimes useful for forcibly clearing a clog) and I imagine it would have to have a more consistent pressure (though maybe that's not true).

No, it's true. Tanks act as a big baffle, so even if your air line is open at the same time the compressor is filling the tank, you're unlikely to notice any pulsation. You can also stop spraying when the compressor kicks on, using only air from the pressurized tank, which guarantees zero pulsation - at that point, it's like you're using an air pig filled up at the garage or a CO2 tank.

Granted, hoses also work like long, skinny tanks. The longer the line between compressor and airbrush (and the lower the pressure you're working at), the less any tiny bursts of pressure from the piston will actually affect the spray pattern. Try to lay down a fine line with a tankless compressor at 40PSI with a 3' hose and you'll have problems. Do the same with a 10' hose at 20PSI and you won't notice a thing. Add a few more feet of line and a secondary regulator/moisture trap and you won't find any evidence of pulsation, even under a magnifying glass.

Honestly, I think heat buildup and construction quality are the things to worry about when debating the merits of tanked compressors, not consistent pressure. I get by just fine with my cheap, tankless HF model, but I'm also far from an expert. If it doesn't crap out on me in the next few years, I may plumb a tank right into it, rather than buy an entry-level tanked model which uses the exact same motor/piston/housing, but costs twice as much as what I paid, plus what I would for a small air tank and a few brass fittings.