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Made in se
Rogue Grot Kannon Gunna






Hi there!

I'm joyfully approaching my 16th years of wargaming and 2nd of paining (better later than ever,ain't it!?)
However I'm starting my new BA army and I'm almost all settled to start painting.
I did an insanely amount of research during those months and helped me greatly.
I mix painting with airbrush and normal brushes.
What I discovered the lastest is the use of finish varnish.
They improved my Vampire Counts greatly.
I even did my own mix of gloss to handle over the different units
What I wonder now is what is best to seal the BA without having that shiny effect. Also what to use on veichle to keep a dusty look.
I wonder why also because once you learn you understand and spread the knowledge further!
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Nottinghamshire

For a dusty look and no shine, you will want matte varnish - it will give an almost chalky finish if you apply too much, so be careful.
Some people say for extra protection on figures you will be handling a lot, to put gloss varnish, let it dry, then use matte. I have never tried this.

Matte also shows the use of your colours very clearly - if you use shades, you can often spray the matte varnish midway through painting. It will help you to see the colours you've applied more clearly.
Another benefit of using varnish midway through painting is that you can use it as a "save point" - if you mess up painting afterwards - water and wiping away your mistake will not harm anything beneath the varnish. I quite often varnish after doing something difficult like details or faces.


[ Mordian 183rd ] - an ongoing Imperial Guard story with crayon drawings!
[ "I can't believe it's not Dakka!" ] - a buttery painting and crafting blog
 
   
Made in se
Rogue Grot Kannon Gunna






Good,one fast question,there is any REAL difference between varnish in a can or spraying it with an airbrush?
Are also some brand BETTER than others?
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Nottinghamshire

Quite honestly, the difference is cost. Airbrush varnish will last you longer than a can will.

As for a brand? For spray cans varies wildly depending on the humidity and temperature of where you live. I live in a fairly damp part of the UK and use Army Painter and Vallejo. Many people have differing views on those.

Most people will openly agree not to use GW's own spray though - it is satin finish and it has many issues.


[ Mordian 183rd ] - an ongoing Imperial Guard story with crayon drawings!
[ "I can't believe it's not Dakka!" ] - a buttery painting and crafting blog
 
   
Made in us
The New Miss Macross!





Deep Frier of Mount Doom

I can't speak about the airbrush options but I do several passes with gloss coats for protection with a single pass of matte on the top to reduce the final shine (as well as the risk of the dreaded fogging). It helps with decals also as putting them in between gloss coats reduces the decal outlining effect.
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






Personal preference for a nice not dusty or wet look is satin varnish.

as everyone else airbrush will be cheaper and the coat a bit more controllable.

I prefer liquitex because its available all over in the us

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

I prefer a brush-on matte, specifically "Winsor Newton Galeria Acrylic matte Varnish". It's super flat, applies fast, is more affordable than spray cans and requires none of the setup of airbrushing or the humidity issues that you get with cans. Some folks will water it down, but I pour it out and use it full strength.

Full Disclosure, I've never airbrushed on varnish, but I used to use spray cans. I much prefer the brush on acrylic matte. The only drawback to an acrylic varnish is that it's not going to have the same hardness as an oil-based enamel varnish and it's a good idea to put on 2 coats. Still, it goes on fast and easy.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/06/04 00:24:26


Chicago Skirmish Wargames club. Join us for some friendly, casual gaming in the Windy City.
http://chicagoskirmishwargames.com/blog/


My Project Log, mostly revolving around custom "Toybashed" terrain.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/651712.page

Visit the Chicago Valley Railroad!
https://chicagovalleyrailroad.blogspot.com 
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






IV never had humidity issues with Airbrushing varnishes..

But rattle can for sure.

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

 Desubot wrote:
IV never had humidity issues with Airbrushing varnishes..

But rattle can for sure.


I should have been more clear (I'll edit it), Airbrushing isn't usually affected by humidity, but it does have a setup and cleaning time much more than just pouring out a bit of brush-on varnish. If you're varnishing 15+ minis at once or doing some scenery then an airbrush is probably ideal, but for small batches brush-on is so darn easy.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2015/06/04 00:32:01


Chicago Skirmish Wargames club. Join us for some friendly, casual gaming in the Windy City.
http://chicagoskirmishwargames.com/blog/


My Project Log, mostly revolving around custom "Toybashed" terrain.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/651712.page

Visit the Chicago Valley Railroad!
https://chicagovalleyrailroad.blogspot.com 
   
Made in ph
Utilizing Careful Highlighting





Manila, Philippines

I've always used brush-on varnishes. Glossi f I want them shiny (like blood effects, drool, really reflective surfaces) and matte for everything else. Gloss kinda ruins the effect I made on color transitions for me.


 
   
 
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