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Right now I have some plastic models sitting in simple green. Earlier today I used a tooth brush to try and clean off the primer and it didn't seem to work to well. I could get it off easily with my finger nails, but as I don't think I should nail over every miniature, I'd like to know what I should use to scrub away the primer.

If you got the simply green recently, they have changed their formula, it simply diluted its effectiveness. I recommend getting purple power.

Also a thing to consider is what the model is primed with, a lot of dummies out there use whatever is cheap, like enamel, gesso etc.

 Big Mac wrote:
If you got the simply green recently, they have changed their formula, it simply diluted its effectiveness. I recommend getting purple power.

Also a thing to consider is what the model is primed with, a lot of dummies out there use whatever is cheap, like enamel, gesso etc.

used the citadel primer

It may take 24 hours for the paint to come off well. Let it sit over night. The paints should have become bloated and gooey with parts of it already falling off.

Use pure ispropyl alcohol instead of simple green. Itle start dissolving the paint immediately and not do anything to the plastics.

Purple Power will absolutely wreck paint. The only thing I wasnt able to 100% get off a model was army painter light green. The infantry I had in the stuff came out looking brand new after a scrub with a toothbrush

The model was army painter light green, black and orange spots, then black, then orange, and primered black again.

Anybody else had a problem with it leaving a 'film' on the model that doesn't scrub off. Not a film of paint but just a tackyness almost like a non hardening clear layer?

I've given up trying to wash and scrub it off after I used dettol (in the uk) I'm thinking of just trying to paint over and go for a worn/damaged rhino now :(

Big Mac wrote:a lot of dummies out there use whatever is cheap, like enamel, gesso etc.

And some dummies don't know what they're talking about.

Spray primer is one of the most difficult things to strip, in my experience. (Gesso, at least, strips okay) I had plastic tyranid bits with a layer of black (also citadel primer) that brake fluid, dettol and fairy power spray wouldn't shift. Eventually I tried, like Hairysticks said, isopropyl alcohol. Only then did it start to melt off.
That said, primer can still be difficult to strip even with IPA. Got a few old second hand minis that are caked, and don't want to give it up. I know acetone's not good for plastics, but I wonder if just a quick swirl in that might do something...

TazN wrote:Anybody else had a problem with it leaving a 'film' on the model that doesn't scrub off. Not a film of paint but just a tackyness almost like a non hardening clear layer?

I've given up trying to wash and scrub it off after I used dettol

I'd strongly suspect that's your problem there. Dettol's notorious for turning paint into a scummy, sticky layer if even a hint of moisture gets near it. You can take precautions, but it's why I switched to fairy power spray instead.

When I used Simple Green I had some black spots over the models. It turns out that was not primer, but a discoloration of the plastic due to the primer. I used Purple Power and it got rid of any stuck on primer but also dissolved some of the detail as I left it in for too long.

Simple Green needs a lot of time. It's supposed to remove primer by dissolving the oil between the plastic and the primer. If the models were properly treated before priming, there is not much oil to begin with.

Also if you use Simple Green you should follow the instructions that tell you to dilute with water. You might think the higher concentration is stronger but Simple Green needs water to react with for cleaning.

TazN wrote:
Anybody else had a problem with it leaving a 'film' on the model that doesn't scrub off. Not a film of paint but just a tackyness almost like a non hardening clear layer?

I've given up trying to wash and scrub it off after I used dettol (in the uk) I'm thinking of just trying to paint over and go for a worn/damaged rhino now :(

You've screwed up. Dettol reacts to water, in bad way. Re-soak them in dettol for a few days and that tacky layer will lift. When using dettol, have them soak for a few days, then, when cleaning, do most of your scrubbing inot the tub they are soaking in, then rinse them in a second tub of CLEAN dettol, then, and only then, quickly rinse them in a tub of hot, VERY soapy water to remove the residue. If you A) have things sticking out of the dettol while soaking, or B) rinse the model straight under the tap you will get that horrible tacky coating...

Edit: spelling

I reiterate: that's why I switched from dettol to FPS.

 Vermis wrote:
I reiterate: that's why I switched from dettol to FPS.

Meh, Dettol ain't great, but when I was in Australia, and a lot fo the other brand stuff wasn't available it was a good alternative. Biggest downside though, is that it costs a lot!

 Big Mac wrote:
If you got the simply green recently, they have changed their formula, it simply diluted its effectiveness. I recommend getting purple power.

Also a thing to consider is what the model is primed with, a lot of dummies out there use whatever is cheap, like enamel, gesso etc.

JA Purple power is so far the best one iv used for stripping.

Also get a harder bristled brush. i find that soft tooth brushes dont really do much.