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I have a Finecast Badrukk and 6 finecast Ammo runts and I have a can of Color Decor Indoor\outdoor spray enamel that is colored black and fast drying. Will that type of spray paint work on Finecast?

If you wish to see pictures of the Finecast in its current state (Unprimed), let me know.

Don't use the spray, buy a primer.

Buy a primer or Test on sprue that is left over

Just sprayed an ammo runt with the spray paint. Will see what happens.

...
You know, you should get a primer instead.

Checked on it a few minutes ago. Wasn't dry yet, but looked all right to me.

Scratch it with your fingernail.

Kaptin, remember to wash your resin with liquid soap and rinse it before you spray anything on there, or it'll bead and not stick.

Check the ingredients on the can. If it says Acrylic, you should be okay. if it says enamel, you may find it hard to paint over.

Try to scratch it, you should only spray miniatures with a real primer.

 Buttery Commissar wrote:
Kaptin, remember to wash your resin with liquid soap and rinse it before you spray anything on there, or it'll bead and not stick.

Check the ingredients on the can. If it says Acrylic, you should be okay. if it says enamel, you may find it hard to paint over.

Yeah, really good points there.

One thing to be extremely mindful of, with Finecast. There are often many very fine, fragile, paper-thin details that are much more easily obscured (or damaged) compared to plastic. If you're using a rattle can spray, you need to be really gentle or you'll end up filling in a lot of those details with paint. Of course, you can say, a lot of those details aren't important to you, but the problem is, there is a tendency for some important detail to be obscured, too, if you go heavy. Finecast is also more breakable, so stripping/scrubbing is something you need to be careful doing.

When I prime my finecast models (with an airbrush) I go much thinner than I do with plastic, and do it in 2-3 very thin coats, so as not to do anything. Sometimes, between those coats, I'll actually add some filler to catch stuff that I missed before priming.

 Buttery Commissar wrote:
if it says enamel, you may find it hard to paint over.

This would be why I wouldn't have done it. Enamel is hard to strip (though personally I don't ever strip my models anyway) but more than that, acrylic doesn't actually stick to it all that well. Especially if it's gloss or satin enamel, but even matte enamel doesn't make for a great base for acrylics.

The one thing I actually rather liked about finecast is that paint seems to stick to it quite easily. I haven't owned many finecast models because I hate everything else about them, but it seems to me you could just give it a wash in warm soapy water to get rid of mould release agents and then just start painting it, the surface seems every so slightly rough and porous to begin with.

AllSeeingSkink wrote:

 Buttery Commissar wrote:
if it says enamel, you may find it hard to paint over.

This would be why I wouldn't have done it. Enamel is hard to strip (though personally I don't ever strip my models anyway) but more than that, acrylic doesn't actually stick to it all that well. Especially if it's gloss or satin enamel, but even matte enamel doesn't make for a great base for acrylics.

The one thing I actually rather liked about finecast is that paint seems to stick to it quite easily. I haven't owned many finecast models because I hate everything else about them, but it seems to me you could just give it a wash in warm soapy water to get rid of mould release agents and then just start painting it, the surface seems every so slightly rough and porous to begin with.

Yeah, paint sticks to finecast well. Unfortunately, until it really cures, paint comes OFF of finecast really easily too :(

Paint rubs off anything easily before it's fully cured, I haven't noticed any problems specifically with finecast in that regard though I haven't owned many nor do I handle my models until they are decently cured (usually sit for a week or so on my shelf).

AllSeeingSkink wrote:
Paint rubs off anything easily before it's fully cured, I haven't noticed any problems specifically with finecast in that regard though I haven't owned many nor do I handle my models until they are decently cured (usually sit for a week or so on my shelf).

I'm talking more about rubbing it off accidentally while you paint it. In a perfect world, I never touch any part of the model while I'm painting it, but practically, it happens because I paint most of my model in pieces (so as to "get everything") and it's not always possible to attach a part of a model to some kind of temporary base -- for example, if it's an arm with a weapon that I want to attach after it's painted.

Also, sometimes when you are at the stage of gluing the model together, touching painted areas is hard to avoid.

I find that in cases like this, just lightly touching finecast (with paint directly on it) will cause the paint to flake off, more so than if there's a coat of primer. Of course, it's not too hard to fix, unless you're going all out and it's one of those super duper display models.

You have some odd-shaped ones too -- in my latest finecast model...



The main model's torso has the toes pointed straight down, making it impossible fix on a temporary base -- I had no option BUT to handle him while I painted him (if this were a super display model, I would have drilled a temporary pin on his back, and pinned him to a temporary post, but for the standard I was shooting, I wasn't going to go to that effort). You also can't pre-assemble him to the piece behind him, because there's way too much detail to paint both on his back side and on the backpack/purity scrolls. The hands above the head, with the executioner axe is also better post-assembly, because you want it to lie just so on the backpack (plus it's fragile as all heck). That piece is also impossible to paint without handling the model.

Maybe, I have issues with paint rubbing off anything before it's well cured (I possibly have harsher hands than most, my keyboards lose their print quite quickly as well ) so if it's a model I care about I just invent ways of making sure I'm not touching them while painting. I have also been known to just let the paint get rubbed off and clean it up in my final detailing and highlighting

Once the paint is cured and I whack a coat of varnish on it though (or even without the varnish, most my models aren't varnished) I don't have problems with paint rubbing off anything but unprimed metal models. I learnt quite early in the game that I could get away without priming most things but for metals it's a must.