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Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User



Longmont, CO

So I am new to war gaming and I see a lot of painting services offering different paint grades. I have painted a handful of miniatures and am by no means a skilled artist but I'm wondering if my skills meet this lowest grade or if I would be laughed out of competitive games.

I painted these Liberators with a base coat of Retibutor armor and then filled in the other sections with Kantor Blue, Lead Belcher, and Screamer Pink. I plan to wash and continue detailing with a handful of other colors I bought based on the AoS fluff manual.

Please let me know how I am doing and if you have any pointers for me. I am not easily offended so have at it but please be constructive...















-Will

 
   
Made in za
Dakka Veteran




Well I think it looks good dude! Keep it up, not that I'm a pro.
   
Made in us
Most Glorious Grey Seer





Everett, WA

Base coats look nice. Hit with a wash and then pick out the highlights and they'll be good for the table.


 
   
Made in pl
Water-Caste Negotiator





Farsight Enclaves

They're good enough to be put on the table already! TBH many people I played with fielded even unpainted or not fully assembled minis lol.

As Breotan said, use some wash, add highlights and they will look great.

cheers
Kahnawake
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Nottinghamshire

They look very good! Well done on all that work! I hope you share pics of them storming the table.

Here are some of the colours GW recommend for use with those models: Link if you are looking for metallics that will work well over what you have used for a bit of highlighting.


[ Mordian 183rd ] - an ongoing Imperial Guard story with crayon drawings!
[ "I can't believe it's not Dakka!" ] - a buttery painting and crafting blog
 
   
Made in za
Jovial Plaguebearer of Nurgle





South Africa

MMM they look good id be happy to play you with those as they are, go the extra mile bash a wash and some highlighting will really make them pop.

Facts are chains that bind perception and fetter truth. For a man can remake the world if he has a dream and no facts to cloud his mind. 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Florida

I would say they are table top standard as is, a wash would make them look a little more finished in my opinion.
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User



Longmont, CO

Wow thank you guys. That is not the response I expected when I was looking at them compared to other posts on DakkaDakka.

It will probably be next week before I wash and highlight but I will try to post up the finished photos and get some help looking for areas of improvement.

-Will

 
   
Made in ca
Regular Dakkanaut




I think they look great. You just need some basing too. They're pretty much my level of painting.
   
Made in ca
Buttons Should Be Brass, Not Gold!






Soviet Kanukistan

Hi. I'd like to echo the opinion that they look good. The paint colors generally don't intrude onto the adjacent areas. Coverage is good without being overly thick. Detail is not obscured.

I'll echo that hitting the model with some shade via inks will greatly improve the look by adding contrast to the raised detail bits and seeping into the crevasses, strengthening the separation between different colors.
   
Made in us
The Marine Standing Behind Marneus Calgar





Upstate, New York

FlightMedic wrote:
Wow thank you guys. That is not the response I expected when I was looking at them compared to other posts on DakkaDakka.

It will probably be next week before I wash and highlight but I will try to post up the finished photos and get some help looking for areas of improvement.


There might be some people who do mind-blowing stuff here, but we don’t hold everyone to that standard. That won’t stop us from trying to get you there though!

As others have said, solid work so far. Neat, paint isn’t too thick, tidy work. A wash helps a lot to bring out detail, particularly on golds IMHO. I do mine with a chestnut wash, and depending on how dark that gets it, bring it back up with a gold drybrush.

   
Made in us
Did Fulgrim Just Behead Ferrus?





Fort Worth, TX

From what I can see, you've got a very solid bit of work done there, and could easily call it a day and pat yourself on the back for a job well done.

If you want to add a bit more to it in one easy step, that's where some shade will come in. I like the Army Painter line of Quickshade, both the inks and the classic dip.

"Through the darkness of future past, the magician longs to see.
One chants out between two worlds: Fire, walk with me."
- Twin Peaks
"You listen to me. While I will admit to a certain cynicism, the fact is that I am a naysayer and hatchetman in the fight against violence. I pride myself in taking a punch and I'll gladly take another because I choose to live my life in the company of Gandhi and King. My concerns are global. I reject absolutely revenge, aggression, and retaliation. The foundation of such a method... is love. I love you Sheriff Truman." - Twin Peaks 
   
Made in us
Nasty Nob






Looks good to me.


My P&M blog: Cleatus, the Scratch-building Mekboy
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Made in de
Fresh-Faced New User





And there is Duncan and the WarhammerTV Channel on YT.

   
Made in ca
Road-Raging Blood Angel Biker






Canada

the only real suggestion i would make would be to wash the model with nun oil, or something similar.
wait for it to dry and add highlighs

 
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Nottinghamshire

Nuln is a bit too hard black for clean golds in my eyes. Browner or even sepia washed would work very well though.


[ Mordian 183rd ] - an ongoing Imperial Guard story with crayon drawings!
[ "I can't believe it's not Dakka!" ] - a buttery painting and crafting blog
 
   
Made in ca
Ancient Venerable Black Templar Dreadnought





Canada

That is good neat and clean "block painting".
"Good enough" for tabletop really is down to how much work do you want to do until you get impatient and just wanna play.
A Sepia wash will give great depth with minimal work so would be worth doing.
Picking out raised edges with a silver tends to work well with gold.

One thing I noticed that took me a while to figure out: do not share wash water or even the same brush that session with metallics and normal colours.
You get contamination into your paint of the alumina flecks and it looks like your model is ready to go out dancing with glitter.
I noticed your purple was glittery in spots so you might want to hit them again with one more layer of purple.

I know you were trying to "brace" for criticism about being laughed at on your paint job but lately, so few people bother to paint their models that it is awesome to see the attempt at getting them done.

I would also suggest giving some thought on how you would like to pretty-up the bases for the models, they make such a difference in acting like a canvas for the model.
- Some white glue on the base surface and dip the model in very small grain sand, kitty litter, etc.
- Some use cork or slate to stand the model on.
- "Martian iron earth" achieves an interesting cracked ground look which is an option.
- Some smear green stuff over the surface and then score / sculpt a stone pattern or cracked look.
- I used a strong plaster filler to sculpt the ground with small craters and vents.
- You could use combinations of ALL of the above to get the desired look.

I would be more concerned with making YOU happy with the end result, I find others tend to be even more impressed as a side benefit.

Good work, have fun!

A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte 
   
 
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