Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Hi, I am a total newbie to Warhammer 40k and recently bought myself some Thin plastic glue of the Citadel type, I thought the precision would assist me in gluing the antennas on my Tau Fire Warriors.
However, I found myself unable to use the glue properly as I do not understand how it applicator works. Could anyone perhaps be of assistance?

Here is an image of the glue I am speaking of:


P.s Sorry if my English is bad, it's not my first language.

Quoted from another thread.

 Breotan wrote:
I don't use the specific version of Testors you're talking about. I use this:



The main difference is the metal stem instead of the plastic one. It allows a smoother flow of glue and can be degunked by using the wires they include (unlike GW). The benefit over GW's version (aside from having wires) is that Testors' is cheaper per oz and you get more in the bottle. I have never had an issue with this product.

Here's the trick to using it. Never use a lot. Cover the parts to be glued with as thin a layer as possible, using your fingertip to spread it out as needed. This prevents glue from spilling out between the joins and also allows better fusing of the plastic into a single piece. If you wind up with a little extra glue, just use a damp paper towel to clean it up before it has a chance to work and your model should be fine.

Ok seems like you are having the same issue I had. When you take off the cap does the metal tube stay in the lid? its not soused to do that. Should look like a needle-thin tip out of the containment and just use that to apply. Check the the Tube for blockage .

 ThirstySpaceMan wrote:
Ok seems like you are having the same issue I had. When you take off the cap does the metal tube stay in the lid? its not soused to do that. Should look like a needle-thin tip out of the containment and just use that to apply. Check the the Tube for blockage .

Oh, yea, I forgot about that. Citadel glue bottles still let the needle slide out? Man, you'd think they'd have fixed that by now.

Mmm, well if its the applicater then you've got your answer. If it how to use it....plastic cement/glue does not work like superglue. You have much more time. You have to wait for the "glue" to "melt" the plastic. It will go "sticky" only then do you put the twwo pieces together and it will fuse together after a while. I pour all my glue into a tamiya fine bottle and use the fine brush to apply glue. Don't know if that helps you.

Sorry to hear about your problem. Frustrating when you start out and things don't seem to go your way.

Save yourself the hassle in the future and try to get hold of this: http://www.humbrol.com/us-en/shop/adhesives-fillers/poly-cement/precision-poly-cement-28ml-bottle.html

Cheaper moneywise and better overall.

The center of the metal applicator is hollow (it's like a straw), and the plastic cement comes out of it. The metal applicator is nice because it is fast to apply and quite precise. get a business card or something similar to test on, and just give a gentle squeeze to the bottle; glue should come out. If not, take it back to GW or the store you bought it at, and they'll give you a replacement.

A trick I learned many years back: plastic glue works better if you apply it to BOTH surfaces, give it a few seconds to begin to melt the plastic, and the put them together.

Personally, most of the time, I prefer superglue to plastic glue, because I can pull the pieces apart (without mangling them) if I make a mistake. Which is a little too often Also, it works on resin, which is something you just run into all the time. The exceptions for me are plastic glue for the smaller bits I know I'll never take apart (like front and back torsos), and thick plastic glue for terrain kits (since it holds much better).

Yeah plastic glue on both sides, touch them together, take them apart, give it 5 seconds and then press them together again and hold. That is the ~official~ way to do it, apparently.

Speaking of tricks - a cigarette lighter will clear a blockage in about 5 seconds, just take it out of the bottle first (or you'll self immolate)

Personally, most of the time, I prefer superglue to plastic glue,

You savage!

I like to live dangerously so leave the appliator in and do it at the end. If it shoots a very small flame out its clear so get the fire away as soon as possible.

This is the stuff I use.