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Ive done the full concentrate of simple green and its stripped models down to the primer. Which is this hellish nighmate that needs to be scratched off. Whats the next step up from simple green?

I am using an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the models but need something to attack the paint.

http://www.uspaintsupply.com/paint/challenger-cleaner/

You can also get this at some Hardware stores but its sort of hard to find.


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http://www.uspaintsupply.com/paint/challenger-cleaner/

You can also get this at some Hardware stores but its sort of hard to find.

Biostrip20 = excellent stuff.

Purple power is a bit stronger but i notice it struggles on primer still.

#1 i find is 99% Isyopropnal alcohol.

soak for like 10 minutes then scrub with a hard bristle and it comes off. wont take out the primer staining but the paint will come off.

doesn't hurt plastic. not sure of resin or metal.

Iso can make resin soft.

Dot3 brake fluid > IPA > *

I'm yet to try biostrip20, but I've got some coming

I just dont like brake fluid for the issues with disposal.

you have to be extra careful with it.

Absolutely, the best solution for disposal is ask your local mechanic - usually they will have a bin you can dump it in with the rest of their junk for proper disposal

Purple Power is pretty awesome for stripping paint.

LA Totally Awesome from the dollar store. Its my go to now over purple power, simple green, and pine sol (only for metals, pine sol). I stripped some finecast with it as well, no problem.

kb_lock wrote:
Iso can make resin soft.

Dot3 brake fluid > IPA > *

Don't use brake fluid on FW resin. I now have some rubbery BFG ships...

T

What really? I've used it on resin a few times and not had any issues.

Regardless, you've highlighted an important issue - no matter what you do, test it first!

Yup, FW resin doesn't like it.

Other resins from other makers may vary, though.

Also depends on how long you "soak" it for. Brake fluid usually doesn't require much of one to get paint off (I put some into a trigger squirt bottle for stubborn areas - squirt, leave for a few minutes, scrub with toothbrush.

I agree with KB_lock about disposal, though - but I have 4 mechanics in my street, and one lets me dump my 2 cups or so a year into his disposal drum (which gets picked up monthly for disposal).

 Breotan wrote:
Purple Power is pretty awesome for stripping paint.

Where would i find purple power?

Autozone has it.

I had the same problem. used dettol and it cleaned the hell out of the models, even the primer. Did a bit of experimenting and found a soak in simple green to clean off the majority of the paint, than an overnight soak in dettol is the best way to do it. Some of the primers do stain though...

Also if you're gonna use dettol read up on some of the tutorials first... it can get a bit messy.

 Cruentus wrote:
LA Totally Awesome from the dollar store. Its my go to now over purple power, simple green, and pine sol (only for metals, pine sol). I stripped some finecast with it as well, no problem.

^This for sure! I used to swear by simple green but "LA Totally awesome" blows it out of the water. Safe for plastic and extended periods of time, just be sure to wear gloves when scrubbing them down.

shiverman wrote:
I had the same problem. used dettol and it cleaned the hell out of the models, even the primer. Did a bit of experimenting and found a soak in simple green to clean off the majority of the paint, than an overnight soak in dettol is the best way to do it. Some of the primers do stain though...

Also if you're gonna use dettol read up on some of the tutorials first... it can get a bit messy.

Yup. DO NOT add ANY water to the dettol or the paint will become a sticky gunge that will give you no end of grief.
(I tried dettol years ago, but I loathe the smell. I had to rinse with either more isopropyl alcohol OR methylated spirits (or even pure ethanol), then water otherwise the paint gunged up).

Also, wear gloves and safety glasses when using undiluted dettol as it will seriously strip the oils and moisture from your skin and leave it with a chemical burn after too much exposure and you really don't want it in your eyes, either.

Wallmart carries Purple Power and Super Clean in the automotive section. Both are miles better than Simple Green. Just remember to pick up some disposable latex gloves to save your hands.

 Deathklaat wrote:
Wallmart carries Purple Power and Super Clean in the automotive section. Both are miles better than Simple Green. Just remember to pick up some disposable latex gloves to save your hands.

This is what I would recommend. Left multiple plastic/metal figures in Super Clean for weeks (totally forgot about them). Stripped 90% of the paint of with just a rinse, a toothbrush scrub got almost all the rest. I'm sure a second soak would really clean it off totally.

Okay. These all sound like good suggestions. Superclean and LA awesome seem to be the biggest contenders.

Super Clean & Purple Power are pretty much the same thing. I use both in my 6L ultrasonic cleaner and they will strip anything down to bare. Old primers might stain the plastic and newer primers will come off depending on the brand and how fresh your fluid is and how long the models took a bath.

 Deathklaat wrote:
Super Clean & Purple Power are pretty much the same thing. I use both in my 6L ultrasonic cleaner and they will strip anything down to bare. Old primers might stain the plastic and newer primers will come off depending on the brand and how fresh your fluid is and how long the models took a bath.

What ultra sonic cleaner do you use and does it have a continuous setting? The one I have only runs 480s which is really annoying.

Finecast doesn't like dettol, just so you know.


RIP Artificer Marneus Calgar.

OP, it sounds like your problem is stubborn primer. I wish you luck. Some really cheap or low quality primers are a huge pain to get off. And sometimes they stain the plastic.

For most jobs, I'm a big fan of LA's Totally Awesome for stripping paint from minis. It will strip the paint and primer off of plastic and metal minis, and won't harm either. Let the minis soak for 24hrs, and you'll get 90%+ of the paint off in the first pass. Best of all, the stuff costs $1. 99% isopropyl alcohol works well too, but is slightly more expensive. Do not water it down. For metal minis, you could always try nail polish remover. I've heard mixed results on that. Do wear gloves when scrubbing as others have said, your hands will thank you later.

 TheCrusadeSmurf wrote:
Finecast doesn't like dettol, just so you know.


RIP Artificer Marneus Calgar.

THATS SO SAD! Poor fella


Ill have to try 99% iso. I think that may be my best best at this point. LA awesome isnt sold in stores near me i bet.

Finecast is reported to not like iso either. Purple power or brake fluid

I use something close to this from China.



the timer can go up to 30min and you can change the temp but I have never used it, the fluid gets warm enough on its own.

if anyone is looking for an ultrasonic that isn't one of the small jewelry cleaners, get one with a valve to drain the fluid. I can stick a Baneblade without sponsons in my cleaner.

 Deathklaat wrote:
I use something close to this from China.



the timer can go up to 30min and you can change the temp but I have never used it, the fluid gets warm enough on its own.

if anyone is looking for an ultrasonic that isn't one of the small jewelry cleaners, get one with a valve to drain the fluid. I can stick a Baneblade without sponsons in my cleaner.

Can i get a brand name and model?

there really are no brand names or models on most of these from china.

Warm cleaner definitely works better than cold, so if you can stick your stripping tub in the sun for a few hours that will help a lot.