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Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





So I just bought my first finecast model (Orikan the Diviner) and using the glue I always use on models (Gorilla Glue Super Glue Gel) it just does NOT want to stay very secure it seems. I have it fairly secure now but I am worried it's not super sturdy. I have had more trouble with this than I ever had with the 5th edition Abaddarm (Abaddon's metal model).

Anyone got any tips?

WAR IS ALL WE KNOW
In the grim darkness of the far future, there is only Brussels Sprouts.

 
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

Makes sure you wash the models really well before gluing and painting.
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





kb_lock wrote:
Makes sure you wash the models really well before gluing and painting.


Noooooooooow you tell me haha. What happens if I don't?

WAR IS ALL WE KNOW
In the grim darkness of the far future, there is only Brussels Sprouts.

 
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

Finecast is just resin, which means it will have a release agent on it (more so than plastic does). Primer may not stick, glue may not hold, etc
   
Made in us
Librarian with Freaky Familiar






 Nydhog wrote:
kb_lock wrote:
Makes sure you wash the models really well before gluing and painting.


Noooooooooow you tell me haha. What happens if I don't?


when GW makes resin models they use a releasing agent, this agent does not always get off the model so you need to wash it and brush it with a soft brush or tooth brush, i personally hate finecrap with a passion and so do many others.

This is the process you need to do in order to get a resin model like fine cast to actually be paint and assembly ready.

1)Wash the model, soak it in room temp soapy water for about 5 min

2)pull model out, brush off, and let dry

3)Cut out of sprue

4) Cut down and remove all of the extra mold spot they added in for reasons.

5) If you are unfortunate enough to have spiky bits or any pieces of weaponry/ appendage that is this thin you need to run that part of the model under hot water for about 5 min, so you can bend it back into shape.

6) let dry....again

7)Fill in the inevitable holes that will be in it, because fine crap, with green stuff, then mold it to fit.

9)Wait 12 hour + for the green stuff to completely dry.

10) Prime

11) Paint

12)Regret buying finecrap

13)Say you will never buy this crap again

14) Inevitably end up buying more fine crap

15)Return to step one.

Thank god GW is doing away with it, they are going back to plastics which im so much more happy for.

That said, resin is easier to work with, but ugh, so much god damn prepwork.

To many unpainted models to count. 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Central Oregon

The thing about finecast is that it sucks.

   
Made in nl
Longtime Dakkanaut






finecast is fine. You just have to know how to work with it.
Any discount store quality super glue will glue it fine in my experience. I never needed to wash it. BUT and this is a big but, superglue doesn't glue in the same way as plastic glue and the models aren't always fitting as good together as the cad build plastic ones. Superglue doesn't work if you handle it in the same way as plastic glue. You need to hold it motionless for a longer time if it doesn't fit that perfectly. I use these sort of tools for it, they are cheap and do the job.



There are some situations where super glue just doesn't cut it. Such as the old wood elf dragon. In these cases you need to resort to pinning or replacing the bond with magnets. Most smaller models such as characters don't require these sort of methods.



Automatically Appended Next Post:
 Backspacehacker wrote:

4) Cut down and remove all of the extra mold spot they added in for reasons.


I love these parts they give you an insight to GW's casting methods and have learned me a lot of casting my own sculpts.

This message was edited 6 times. Last update was at 2016/04/29 10:06:44


Inactive, user. New profile might pop up in a while 
   
Made in us
Librarian with Freaky Familiar






 oldzoggy wrote:
finecast is fine. You just have to know how to work with it.



ehhhhh debatable lol

Resin is fine to work with, hell its great to work with, light easy to sculpt, not a lot of weight. IMO i think GW just does not do a good job at casting resin like other companies *Cough* FW *Cough* This is why they are getting away from finecast and going back to high detail plastics, because no one wants a finecast model anymore haha.

To many unpainted models to count. 
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

Sorry, you're suggesting FW does a good job casting resin?

Put a storm eagle together, then come talk to me
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka






kb_lock wrote:
Sorry, you're suggesting FW does a good job casting resin?

Put a storm eagle together, then come talk to me


I have a suspicion that people who keep saying FW does some miraculous thing with resin just look at pictures of FW resin in White Dwarf or the FW website, where all the resin looks like, uh, plastic. Those photos are of like, the first model that pops out of the mold, and they've been cleaned up to perfection in a way that isn't likely for most of us.

In actual fact, FW models come with tons of bent pieces that can be a bitch to get perfectly straight (after time, sometimes, they revert), they have HUGE resin vents and channels to cut off/around, surfaces that should be flat are concaved, pieces fit at best badly, and often only one side of the model is finished nicely. For example, the front tank tracks might be quite acceptable, but the back might look like a motley mess. And those expensive character models? A high percentage of them require a significant amount of work to get them to be anything near as nice as a plastic character model. And if you're spending $50+ on a single, inch-tall model, one would hope that such a thing is important.

Circa-2000 GW plastic models usually fit together way, way better than FW resin models. And, as models get bigger, fit becomes more and more an issue. So the dude with the sniper rifle you can just make work, but the titan will require a lot of love to make it just assemble, whereas the plastic titan just works. This also is a big deal if you like painting your models in subassemblies, and if you're painting up an army, because that's a lot easier if you can just expect that all the pieces will consistently fit.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/04/29 16:58:41


 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





The wash the thing tips worked wonders. I bought my girlfriend Belial tonight and assembled it for her and tried soaking it in soap.

IT ACTUALLY FRACKING HELD FIRST TRY! ZOMG!

WAR IS ALL WE KNOW
In the grim darkness of the far future, there is only Brussels Sprouts.

 
   
Made in us
Mutilatin' Mad Dok





Georgia

I don't have to wash it at all. I just use some generic liquid krazy glue, hold it there for about ten seconds, and then I'm good to go. I mean, yeah, I'm not a fan of the material at all, but I almost feel like krazy glue works quicker on resin than plastic glue does on plastic. The one I use comes in a blue bottle with a brush on it. It bonds my skin literally instantly but it works on resin just fine.

"The undead ogre believes the sack of pies is your parrot, and proceeds to eat them. The pies explode, and so does his head. The way is clear." - Me, DMing what was supposed to be a serious Pathfinder campaign.

6000 - Death Skulls, Painted
2000 - Admech/Skitarii, Painted 
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

You don't have to wash all models, but you won't easily be able to tell if they need it or not. If they do, paint is your problem, not glue
   
Made in gb
Irked Necron Immortal





Hampshire, UK

Finecast = Turd

 
   
 
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