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Hi guys, I need your advise about Green Stuff. I've already sculpted some things with it, but when I am done with the bit I immediately place it on the model and let it cure. However, this time I am making something different. I want to make round shield for my Imperial Knight, but when I do the shield I don't know where to place it so it won't cure over the desk I am working on. Any ideas?

If you put GS in the freezer it will stay workable for a little longer.

I'm not sure I really understand your problem though. Is it possible for you to sculpt the shield on top of something like saran wrap, then glue the GS sculpt to your model? Pics might help here.

I'm not sure i'm getting this right, but do you mean your shield needs to be curved, and if you let it cure on the table it will flatten?
if that's the case, i gave a small curvature to my contemptor shield by covering a spraycan with aluminum foil, then applying cooking oil so the shield won't stuck to the foil.

You can obviously replace the spraycan with a bottle of water for example, to offer a better curvature for that scale

Unfortunately my English is not good and I am failing to explain what i mean :(

I am sculpting a round shield that is going to be placed on the Knight later on - couple of weeks perhaps. The problem is that I am sculpting the shield on the surface of a plastic table. The question is how to leave the finished sculpt when I am done so it wont stuck cure stucked on the table I use.

As i said mate, just put some cooking oil between your sculpted shield and the table. Once the shield is cured, you can wash it with soap and water, same for the table.

Put petroleum jelly on the table so green stuff does not stick. Let it cure and glue it on later.

 SQRT(-2) wrote:
Put petroleum jelly on the table so green stuff does not stick. Let it cure and glue it on later.

Unfortunately the jelly is doing nothing. The whole green stuff gets dissolved and remains a mess :(


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 ciuncky wrote:
As i said mate, just put some cooking oil between your sculpted shield and the table. Once the shield is cured, you can wash it with soap and water, same for the table.

I just used cooking oil. The shield is almost done. Thank you!

I use chapstick on a very smooth piece of tile with chapstick myself. If you are having problems with the green stuff sticking to your desk then you need to get a thin piece of plasticard or something as a base to sculpt on. If your problem is the greenstuff is never hardening it may be your mixture? Remember, more blue means firmer, harder, dries quicker, more yellow means softer takes longer.
It sounds like what you are doing is sculpting a round type shield, and you want to keep it separated from the miniature until you are ready to place it on. My real question is why sculpt it? Find a suitable round object to use as a base (a plastic washer comes to mind or simply a piece of plastic or cardboard, whatever. Even a piece of paper set down, that you can then flip over and cut out around your shield when it dries will work.
One last note. Greenstuff dries rubbery, so if you are trying to make a very thin shield be warned, it will always remain a little flexible. I think 1 mm is really about as thin as you want to go.

edwardmyst wrote:
I use chapstick on a very smooth piece of tile with chapstick myself. If you are having problems with the green stuff sticking to your desk then you need to get a thin piece of plasticard or something as a base to sculpt on. If your problem is the greenstuff is never hardening it may be your mixture? Remember, more blue means firmer, harder, dries quicker, more yellow means softer takes longer.
It sounds like what you are doing is sculpting a round type shield, and you want to keep it separated from the miniature until you are ready to place it on. My real question is why sculpt it? Find a suitable round object to use as a base (a plastic washer comes to mind or simply a piece of plastic or cardboard, whatever. Even a piece of paper set down, that you can then flip over and cut out around your shield when it dries will work.
One last note. Greenstuff dries rubbery, so if you are trying to make a very thin shield be warned, it will always remain a little flexible. I think 1 mm is really about as thin as you want to go.

You are actually right. Trying to sculpt round shield was actually kind of dump thing to do. But it's too late now