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I'm currently converting a Blood Angels 1st Company banner (the one in the Terminator kit) to a 4th Company banner, which involves filling in the lines on the vertical section of the cross pattern. The lines are very shallow and very narrow so I'm not sure what to do with them.

Thoughts and suggestions are greatly appreciated, thanks lads.

I had to do something like this with the shields on my necron lychguard. I painted the line first, then, very carefully worked on the body of the shield around it. Then I was very careful with my shades.

Have you tried Liquid Green Stuff? It's pretty much designed for filling in small gaps

Mr colour white putty mixed with mr color self leveling thinner

kb_lock wrote:
Mr colour white putty mixed with mr color self leveling thinner

You're probably better off not using the self levelling thinner for that job.

Using primer or liquid greenstuff is going to take quite a few applications and may require sanding to get it smooth afterwards, so I'd only use paint/primer as a filler if the area was easy to sand.

Personally in the situations where it's not easy to post-sand, I have used milliput. You can apply it and then use a bit of water to smooth it out.

I will suggest this stuff. The good thing is that is water based,so if you make a mistake you can use a wet brush or cloth to wipe it away. Also instead of sanding it down when filling a gap just use a wet paintbrush to smooth it into the gap. This stuff works just as well as any of the fillers/the big advantage is that you get a second chance if you make a mistake!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Deluxe-Materials-40ml-Perfect-Plastic-Putty-Tube-044-/331905248006?hash=item4d47182b06:g:bqoAAOSwRgJXgn14

I lump deformable fillers into basically three types:

1. 1-part fillers that shrink - usually, these are water-based. They include modeling paste and liquid greenstuff. The advantage is that they're really easy to brush on. Once dry, you can scrape/sand them down. The disadvantage is, because they shrink as the water evaporates, so you really have to put on a lot more, or do multiple layers. These are really good to fill in bubbles in resin, because you can apply them with a brush, and often, the bubbles are in places where some shrinkage in the bubble filling doesn't matter (gap-filling superglue with a toothpick is also a good solution).

2. 1-part fillers that don't shrink - like squadron putty and tamiya. These come in a tube, they are applied with a metal modelling tool, and can be sanded when dry or roughly loosely shaped (especially pressed/scraped) while wet. They are a great tool for gap-filling on models that you can access with a file or sandpaper afterwards, where the finished product should look perfectly smooth. This is what I use on a lot of clean plated armor and smooth armored vehicles (like jets and tanks). The disadvantage is, they become brittle when dry and can't be used for organic shapes.

3. 2-part fillers - these include green stuff and milliput, which range from malleable/shapable to hard and sandable (but you need to choose -- not both). The advantage of these is that you can create shapes and you have time to reshape them. Having the potential to be very strong, they also are ideal for large corrections, like making a dented piece of resin flat, or filling large gaps, and for filling organic shapes like the top and bottom of a metal dragon's neck, because you can shape the joined area using a sculpting tool. The disadvantage is a very slow drying time, the two-part nature, and they're a bunch of work for very fine fills. These are critical for models like Forge World tanks and for large metal models.

Talys, milliput can actually work great for fine fills, loosely place it over the area that needs filling and then use water to smoosh it in to the gap and remove the excess. I've used it on wing roots of aircraft which have fine gaps that I can't easily access with sandpaper.

I've seen someone who actually thins milliput with water off the model and then applies it with a brush, I couldn't get that to work as well as I'd like so I just apply too much without water and then use the water along with scraping and smoothing tools to remove the excess before it cures.

@Skink - you're right, smoosh milliput is not a bad way to go about it. I'm not a huge fan just because of waste on small models, but whatever, one box of milliput lasts forever.

Also, most people don't have one, but a rifle file (file with a sharp angle at the end) can really help finishing on the hard to reach places (though nether is really a problem on the described banner).

Self leveling thinner works really well with white putty, it's been super useful.

I also second making a miliput paste, it'd work like liquid greenstuff should.

White putty meaning what exactly? Like Tamiya putty? I haven't tried that before, might be useful.

I will admit I don't like liquid greenstuff in the slightest. I used it a few times but it's just not nice to use. For situations where liquid greenstuff might be useful, I use Gunze's lacquer primer instead, straight from the bottle without thinning it. You might be tempted to apply thick layers, but thin layers dry almost instantly so you can build up several thin layers quicker than applying a thick layer and having to wait for it to dry.

mr white putty

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/268150-mr-hobby-p118-mr-white-putty

AllSeeingSkink wrote:
White putty meaning what exactly? Like Tamiya putty? I haven't tried that before, might be useful.

I will admit I don't like liquid greenstuff in the slightest. I used it a few times but it's just not nice to use. For situations where liquid greenstuff might be useful, I use Gunze's lacquer primer instead, straight from the bottle without thinning it. You might be tempted to apply thick layers, but thin layers dry almost instantly so you can build up several thin layers quicker than applying a thick layer and having to wait for it to dry.

I think LGS is awful for gap filling, because I have to fill the gap like 3 times. And even then, when it totally cures, I might still see a line.

However, if you get fine, highly detailed FW resin bits that have lots of bubbles where the finished model doesn't have to look perfectly flat (for example, the tips of feathers -- there might be 40 to tips to one wing to fix), it's super easy to apply, and looks just fine when it's dry.