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Hi,

I just popped here for a little advice I need from players that have bought the Genestealer Goliath model.

I'm tempted to buy this model - not for 40k - but because it's the first 40k model in a few years I've been tempted to buy that looks good enough to use in other sci-fi games. However, I've been trying to find reviews of the model itself. Every review I find is mainly about it's use in 40k and the points vs use in game, rather than the kit itself.

What's worrying me, is that on nearly every image I've found of the model, there's an ugly gap splitting the front including the mudguard.
I'd like to know if anyoine that's bought this model has had this problem and is it easy to fill or fix?

Example images I've found that show this problem.









Are these typical of the build?

Looking at the sprue pics, that seems to be the joint between the pieces. It isn't as obvious on the store page, but it's definitely there. I'd say it could be covered up the Green Stuff and sanded down fairly easily, but it's definitely a result of the kit design.

 EnTyme wrote:
Looking at the sprue pics, that seems to be the joint between the pieces. It isn't as obvious on the store page, but it's definitely there. I'd say it could be covered up the Green Stuff and sanded down fairly easily, but it's definitely a result of the kit design.

Thanks for the reply.
I'll give one a try. I was hoping the gaps wouldn't be as bad as the ones I just found on the Citadel wood I just put together. I forgave that as the sprues were (c)2007. From what all the GW fans say on these forums, the new GW plastics are the best. The Goliath just seems to have really large gaps for a new kit.

Anyway, for plastic, I use this stuff. Far better on plastic than green stuff.

https://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/model-filler-31ml-tube.html

That little split is there on the model, but if it's been properly assembled, all you need to do to make it go away is a quick hit with a file, just like every single other model. Honestly, those pictures (not to knock the paintjobs) have all been poorly built. I've got 2 of them, and it's not nearly that noticible, with no gap in there whatsoever. In no way did it require any greenstuff.

 Bi'ios wrote:
That little split is there on the model, but if it's been properly assembled, all you need to do to make it go away is a quick hit with a file, just like every single other model. Honestly, those pictures (not to knock the paintjobs) have all been poorly built. I've got 2 of them, and it's not nearly that noticible, with no gap in there whatsoever. In no way did it require any greenstuff.

Thanks Bi'ios. That's put my mind at ease a little. I'll order one from my local hobby store next time I'm in. Looking forward to building it.

Sometimes with gaps of that ilk (like on space marine bikes) the best option is to make them worse before you make them better.
The crack is too small to fill smoothly so file the edges before you glue them so you are left with a gap big enough to get some filler of your choice in.
File as necessary.

Just a big thanks to the people that replied to me in this thread.

I bought the Goliath and put it together last night. Best model I've bought from GW in a long time. Mould lines nearly non-existant and it fit together perfectly.
My only gripe was that I'd have loved 2 of that large weapon circular base so you could build both options to twist on and off.
I'm not sure what happened to the models in the pics I posted above. There was a join line, but no gap on construction.

What happened is that most people can't (be bothered to) build miniatures with precision and care.

 Gimgamgoo wrote:
Just a big thanks to the people that replied to me in this thread.

I bought the Goliath and put it together last night. Best model I've bought from GW in a long time. Mould lines nearly non-existant and it fit together perfectly.
My only gripe was that I'd have loved 2 of that large weapon circular base so you could build both options to twist on and off.
I'm not sure what happened to the models in the pics I posted above. There was a join line, but no gap on construction.

top tip, the circumference of the circle you need to fit over the weapons mount is the same as that of the top of a 25mm gw base,

so it's simple to cut the bottom of the base away leaving a plastic disc you can glue the guns to, and with a bit of styrene tube and sheet make a twist fit joint on the base

Yesterday, I saw a tree trimming outfit pass by. Four trucks of various sizes. Exact (and I mean exact) color of my Genestealer Army. I was truly inspired by these "real life" industrial trucks. Then, I got scared, and have been hiding in the basement all night.

I need to figure out how to paint/decal corporate style words on the sides of my Goliaths. The logo on the trucks will be:

Gene's
Steel Ore

You can make your own waterslide transfers; if you go to your local art/craft store they will either have or be able to source the "blank" sheets to print onto using a regular domestic inkjet or laser printer.
You can then knock together whatever signage you like in your favourite computer art package and print them out to use in exactly the same way as the commercial ones.

 Gobbla wrote:
Gene's
Steel Ore

Pretty sure steel needs to be refined so you'd never get steel ore

 spiralingcadaver wrote:

 Gobbla wrote:
Gene's
Steel Ore

Pretty sure steel needs to be refined so you'd never get steel ore

Technically, a rocky formation which contains both iron ore and charcoal could be considered steel ore.

You don't tend to get charcoal still in the ground waiting to be mined.

Charcoal has already been burned once. So it's not even a "raw" state for it.

Coal does occur naturally in deposits, but not charcoal.

 chromedog wrote:
You don't tend to get charcoal still in the ground waiting to be mined.

Charcoal has already been burned once. So it's not even a "raw" state for it.

Coal does occur naturally in deposits, but not charcoal.

Coal is what I meant lol