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So tested my c28 compressor and g23 last night and the equipment is great but there was a lot of user error. Mostly in the psi department compressor has a minescule resivoir and auto goes to 60 and has a dialable constant setting. If there's a way to change the max start I don't know. But what constant psi should I run . I can easily do 30-40 and the compressor will constantly run but that's fine. Might can even do lower. What do you guys run?


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Checked the website for them it is intact tankless with working pressure of 15-45psi. So where do is set it?

The important one is the running pressure rather than the static pressure. I typically run under 20PSI for most work and 20-35 for priming and basecoating (depending on the paint and needle size).


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gendoikari87 wrote:
compressor has a minescule resivoir

Looking it up on the internet, it doesn't have a reservoir at all, do you mean the moisture trap?

and auto goes to 60 and has a dialable constant setting. If there's a way to change the max start I don't know.

You can't easily change the auto on/off pressure of a compressor, there'll be a pressure switch somewhere (on a tanked compressor it's on the tank, on a non-tank compressor it's probably between the piston and the moisture trap/regulator).

But what constant psi should I run

Go off the running pressure rather than the static, it really depends on what you're doing but the 15-25psi range is a good start.

I think it's a 0.3mm needle g23 from master.

As a side note this $30 airbrush is worlds better than my old Aztec that was $100+ with a super expensive compressor that was NOT adjustable. If these hold up for a while I'll say there one of the best deals available. Made the mistake of trying to thin valejo model air.... extremely unnecessary in the extreme but still worked.


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Also had one clog.... trying to run unthinned metallic gold (not model air just gold gw gold) a quick empty and reverse glow cleaning cleared that out


Also using vinegar windex to clean how bad of an idea is that?

gendoikari87 wrote:
I think it's a 0.3mm needle g23 from master.

As a side note this $30 airbrush is worlds better than my old Aztec that was $100+ with a super expensive compressor that was NOT adjustable. If these hold up for a while I'll say there one of the best deals available.

It's not the compressor that is or is not adjustable, it's the regulator, it's just your C28 came with a regulator built in, as long as your super expensive compressor could build sufficient pressure you could have just chucked a regulator on to that.

Made the mistake of trying to thin valejo model air.... extremely unnecessary in the extreme but still worked.

I pretty much always thin Vallejo air, it seems way too thick to me out of the bottle. Obviously thinner than non-air paints, but still too thick to spray nicely out of the bottle... at least for me, some people love it unthinned.

Also using vinegar windex to clean how bad of an idea is that?

Vinegar is pretty weak when it comes to cleaning, windex is a common cleaner but I don't use it so can't comment. As long as it's not damaging the seals (and because the airbrush is cheap, the seals are probably also cheap and delicate).

I use Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner. Rinse out the undried paint with water first then flush through with the vallejo airbrush cleaner. Is it the cheapest method? Probably not, but it works well and I find it's gentle on rubber seals.

Thanks skink. I might still thin the valejo got food coloring bottles chucked a buckshot pellet in for mixing so I could have ready to go thinned paints. It might not NEED to be thinned with this airbrush but even a little thinner will stretch my paints out and valejo isn't that cheap. And I got an ultrasmurfs AND mechanicus army to paint

The pressure you run depends on the paint, and how you are spraying it.

For really thin paint, where I am doing close up details, I use about 15-20 psi.

For thicker stuff (like thinned craft paint) I run 20-30 etc.

It is an experimental thing, and you will gain experience over time.

As far as CLEANING and thinning paints - there are literally hundreds of posts on that - I won't try to repeat all the details.

For cleaning all I really want to know is what's safe

Again, there are dozens of threads on this - because some people don't agree - or say "I have never got sick, so its safe"....and the threads go into the details.

If you want to have the executive summary -
* don't use windex. really.
* use alcohol (I use 91%) or some other airbrush cleaner.

davethepak wrote:
Again, there are dozens of threads on this - because some people don't agree - or say "I have never got sick, so its safe"....and the threads go into the details.

If you want to have the executive summary -
* don't use windex. really.
* use alcohol (I use 91%) or some other airbrush cleaner.

Absolutely make sure you have good ventilation regardless of what you spray.

I find alcohol vastly inferior to vallejo airbrush cleaner, and I was using 99% alcohol. I bought some thinking I'd save some money, but it takes twice as long to clean it out with alcohol as it does vallejo cleaner and the cleaner doesn't dry things out quite so much.

I also spray enamels and lacquers, for enamels I thin with Testors or Humbrol branded enamel thinner but clean with a hardware store enamel thinner to save money. For lacquers I both thin and clean with Gunze brand thinners, I tried the hardware store lacquer thinner and that stuff is hideously harsh and will probably send you to an early grave if you breath too much.

i might have to get valejo airbrush cleaner could not get it to stop clogging tonight.

half decent result sthough

You can reduce clogs with proper thinning as well. I use more thinner than paint, while counterintuitive it only takes a little getting used to but an airbrush makes it easy.

I recommend a decent thinner too. I use Liquitex airbrush medium, cuz yah know, that's what it's made for hah. Works great too.

I just had to replace the pressure switch in my big 8 gallon compressor. It was a 120/150, meaning off at 150 and turn on at 120. If the compressor goes on and off with the pressure, then there is definitely an air tank.

For airbrushing, I use my smaller 1.5 gallon around 20-25 psi, set by the regulator, as you have no control over the base tank pressure - the pressure switch does that. This is a 120 max pressure tank, so even when spraying like crazy, the compressor only comes on every few minutes, just for a minute or so.

For thinning your paint, it looks like everyone else has it covered pretty good.

 MDSW wrote:
If the compressor goes on and off with the pressure, then there is definitely an air tank.

Even tankless compressors often (if not usually) have pressure switches, it's just the pressure switch is rigged up near the piston. There'll usually be a cable running from the motor housing to either the piston or a fitting just behind the regulator which is the pressure cut off/on switch. The cheap little compressors are often "capable" of ~110psi, but cut off at around 60-ish if not less so the consumer never actually sees 110.

Of course with no air tank the function of the pressure switch is basically to limit the max static pressure and turn it on/off when you're using it, because the pressure drops near instantly when you start using it and builds near instantly when you stop using it.

Yeah it runns pretty much when i press the airbrush trigger.... that said it is quiet compared to the other airbrush i had. also at 60psi if i get a nub i can inflate my cars tires