Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Need some help here. I noticed when I pre-ordered Rogal Dorn, they touted this new base feature where the 40mm game base slotted into the 105x70mm oval diorama base. They even had some pictures included in the product profile of Dorn being removed from the base, which, oddly, when I went back to the product description page for a reference, those pics were peculiarly missing. I received my kit this past Wednesday and today while I'm prepping the parts, I noticed that the base that's supposed to "slot snugly" (product description text) doesn't exactly slot very snugly --

Here are the base parts:


This is a pic of the same parts assembled/slotted (glue-less):


....and a pic of the 40mm game base "removed" from the 105x70mm diorama base:


As you may be able to tell from that last image, you might be able to see a shadow cast down from one of the diorama base border pieces, which is exactly where the game base has some carved rubble detail. On the other side of the 40mm slot, the other rubble piece is also obstructing the game base from being slotted from the top as shown here:



So, there are really only two options as far as I can tell when presented with the aforementioned information -- either I keep the border diorama pieces on the game base as shown here:



...which is a problem because to slot the game base into the diorama base, you need to slide it in from behind the dead Night Lord, as his backpack obstructs slotting the base in from the top, however the base border parts (when glued) will keep the game base from sliding in --
or I carve off the sculpted rubble for the snug fit, and try to resculpt it with epoxy putty but while I can hold my own with the ol' epoxy putty, I'm no Forge World sculptor, and this is hardly a kit you wanna screw up given the price.

Here's a birds-eye shot of the diorama base with the two flanking rubble parts as far from the 40mm base slot as I can possibly muster --



It may just come down to yet again buying an additional copy so Dorn can lead my HH 7th legion into glorious tabletop battle, but before I cough up another chunk of change, I wanted to tap the endless knowledge of my fellow Dakkanaut hobbyists to see if you ladies/gents can help me plan a solution (even help me flesh out the epoxy putty fix). I'm thinking I may just have to bite the bullet and carve off some of the Night Lord's backpack if I plan on "snugly fitting" the game base into the diorama base.

Also, if you take a close look at this pic on the product description page, it seems Forgeworld themselves had a bit of difficulty placing the right-side rubble piece --



Anyway, just a warning to other would-be buyers here, don't fall for the fact that the game base "slots snugly" into the diorama. It just requires what seems at this point to be quite a bit of surgery to achieve that snug slotting!

Any thoughts, suggestions, experiences with this or other kits similar, would be endlessly helpful.

First suggestion: host your pics somewhere else. No one will be able to see them at the moment thanks to photobucket's recent policy changeand so we have a limited idea of what you're dealing with.

God damnit. Yeah, gonna move 'em now. Thanks for the heads-up.

Instead of using epoxy glue or any glue, use tack glue pieces, you can get it at places like hobby lobby, great for ‘gluing’ pieces without using glue; I use it on many part, such as marine shoulder pads, Cadian knife/canteen belt kit, hand held lasguns, under foot of model that’s pinned to a scenic base on 1 foot and the other with tack glue for strength; tank hatches, backpack storages, pretty much anything you don’t want to permanent glue down but want to keep it together without pinning or magnets.

Just re-hosted all of my images for this post. Sorry for the broken links. Closing my Photobucket account!!!

Perhaps use magnets in either the border parts or Dorn's feet.
Or you could just skip glue/magnets altogether. It appears the rubble can stand on its own and usually dioramas aren't moved around a whole lot, so does it really need to be glued on?

It looks like the optional parts overlap the back of Dorn's gaming base. I'd be looking to trim away at those to free up the base; just keep dry fitting, taking away a little more each time until it's right. The bonus is it should be really easy to make the trimmed areas still look like ruins.

Given that the obstructing pieces are parts of a display base, I'd be tempted to just put a pin in each and a socket in the display base. Lift them off to remove the gaming piece, and slide them back in afterwards. You could do the same with magnets, but the display base shouldn't be shifting around very much anyhow, so the drilling required may be overkill.

Da Butcha wrote:
Given that the obstructing pieces are parts of a display base, I'd be tempted to just put a pin in each and a socket in the display base. Lift them off to remove the gaming piece, and slide them back in afterwards. You could do the same with magnets, but the display base shouldn't be shifting around very much anyhow, so the drilling required may be overkill.

that's what I would do. its easy and doesn't lock you in one way or another.

Da Butcha wrote:
Given that the obstructing pieces are parts of a display base, I'd be tempted to just put a pin in each and a socket in the display base. Lift them off to remove the gaming piece, and slide them back in afterwards. You could do the same with magnets, but the display base shouldn't be shifting around very much anyhow, so the drilling required may be overkill.

Brilliant idea! I wonder if I can incorporate this idea with magnets rather than a pin? Never worked with magnets but I know they're pretty popular. I might even want to throw a magnet at the bottom of the gaming base. I was hoping not to take a scalpel to anything on this kit and this is exactly the advice I needed. What say you of using magnets?

If they've got the space somewhere, what I did with the "cover the base" piece of my Armillus Dynat model was slip a couple of magnets onto it so it clipped smoothly into place when I have him on the full base.

 hybridmoments82 wrote:

Da Butcha wrote:
Given that the obstructing pieces are parts of a display base, I'd be tempted to just put a pin in each and a socket in the display base. Lift them off to remove the gaming piece, and slide them back in afterwards. You could do the same with magnets, but the display base shouldn't be shifting around very much anyhow, so the drilling required may be overkill.

Brilliant idea! I wonder if I can incorporate this idea with magnets rather than a pin? Never worked with magnets but I know they're pretty popular. I might even want to throw a magnet at the bottom of the gaming base. I was hoping not to take a scalpel to anything on this kit and this is exactly the advice I needed. What say you of using magnets?

It's not really any different to pinning: you drill a hole and you fill it with a piece of metal, just make sure you're using a drill bit the width of your magnet and take care to go slow, drill shallow and check your polarities. A 3 x 1mm magnet ought to do with pieces those size.