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Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User





Ok so I'm trying out mixing up some oil washes. Looks fine when initially applied doing a pin wash but dries to some light grey residue in the recesses? Anyone know what's up with that? Was getting the same result with different thinners and oils. Did I not leave the varnish long enough to cure? The colour is way off and much lighter than how it should be.

[Thumb - wash.jpg]

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/05/30 21:32:56


 
   
Made in fi
Hoary Long Fang with Lascannon




Finland

If you are using water as a solvent you need to use purified (i.e. distilled) water. Tap water has a lot of minerals and impurities in it and they leave a light colored residue in recesses when dry.

If you're not using tap water then it's something else.

7000+
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Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User





 Weazel wrote:
If you are using water as a solvent you need to use purified (i.e. distilled) water. Tap water has a lot of minerals and impurities in it and they leave a light colored residue in recesses when dry.

If you're not using tap water then it's something else.


Oil washes as in derived from oil paint not nuln oil.
   
Made in au
Hacking Proxy Mk.1





Australia

Never seen that happen with oils. Only thing I can suggest is grabbing a new paint of the same brand and testing it both on the same model and on a new test, see if that helps you determine if the paint is the problem, the model is the problem, or if something has gone wrong as you've mixed it.

 Fafnir wrote:
Oh, I certainly vote with my dollar, but the problem is that that is not enough. The problem with the 'vote with your dollar' response is that it doesn't take into account why we're not buying the product. I want to enjoy 40k enough to buy back in. It was my introduction to traditional games, and there was a time when I enjoyed it very much. I want to buy 40k, but Gamesworkshop is doing their very best to push me away, and simply not buying their product won't tell them that.
 
   
Made in fi
Hoary Long Fang with Lascannon




Finland

stevieboy573 wrote:
 Weazel wrote:
If you are using water as a solvent you need to use purified (i.e. distilled) water. Tap water has a lot of minerals and impurities in it and they leave a light colored residue in recesses when dry.

If you're not using tap water then it's something else.


Oil washes as in derived from oil paint not nuln oil.


Well that much I gathered. But I don't know how you dilute oil paints so I just said that tap water can produce that effect. If water is not a part of the process then it's something else, like I said as well.

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3500
2000 
   
Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User





 jonolikespie wrote:
Never seen that happen with oils. Only thing I can suggest is grabbing a new paint of the same brand and testing it both on the same model and on a new test, see if that helps you determine if the paint is the problem, the model is the problem, or if something has gone wrong as you've mixed it.


Yeah I tried all sorts of combos and it kept happening so must be something to do with the clear coat. Worked as normal on an unvarnished mini so not too sure what's up.
   
Made in au
Hacking Proxy Mk.1





Australia

How long did you leave the varnish to dry and what brand was it?

 Fafnir wrote:
Oh, I certainly vote with my dollar, but the problem is that that is not enough. The problem with the 'vote with your dollar' response is that it doesn't take into account why we're not buying the product. I want to enjoy 40k enough to buy back in. It was my introduction to traditional games, and there was a time when I enjoyed it very much. I want to buy 40k, but Gamesworkshop is doing their very best to push me away, and simply not buying their product won't tell them that.
 
   
Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User





Vallejo gloss polyurethane. 4 hours or so I guess.
   
Made in au
Hacking Proxy Mk.1





Australia

Maybe try 24 next time. I typically give it that long before I apply oils or enamels just to be extra safe. 12 is probably plenty too, but I'd guess your problem was that it wasn't long enough.

 Fafnir wrote:
Oh, I certainly vote with my dollar, but the problem is that that is not enough. The problem with the 'vote with your dollar' response is that it doesn't take into account why we're not buying the product. I want to enjoy 40k enough to buy back in. It was my introduction to traditional games, and there was a time when I enjoyed it very much. I want to buy 40k, but Gamesworkshop is doing their very best to push me away, and simply not buying their product won't tell them that.
 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




U.k

If the humidity is high or it’s too cold varnish drys like that. It’s the paint. I use a hair dryer to dry my varnish now as quick as possible, less chance of it clouding.
Also I wouldn’t bother using oils on infantry, it’s a lot of hassle and I don’t think you will notice much of a difference from a standard wash. I know some top painters do but what standard are hoping to achieve, golden demon winning or good on the battlefield? Love them on vehicles and terrain though, cheap as chips too.

   
Made in au
Hacking Proxy Mk.1





Australia

I like using oil pin washes on my marines. Doing darker than average Blood Angels I like the way I can wash them with a purple to add shadows and a gradient to the armour, then I can go over that with the black oils to really define the darker shadows and the lines between armour plates.

 Fafnir wrote:
Oh, I certainly vote with my dollar, but the problem is that that is not enough. The problem with the 'vote with your dollar' response is that it doesn't take into account why we're not buying the product. I want to enjoy 40k enough to buy back in. It was my introduction to traditional games, and there was a time when I enjoyed it very much. I want to buy 40k, but Gamesworkshop is doing their very best to push me away, and simply not buying their product won't tell them that.
 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




U.k

I have seen some impressive results with oil I just find them a faff. The smell of thinners and the mess. You get a lot more control agreed. Maybe I will have to try some on some marines. See how it goes.

   
Made in gb
Rampaging Khorne Dreadnought




Southampton, UK

I'd guess that the varnish wasn't fully cured, and where the oil wash has pooled in the recesses, the thinner has attacked the varnish.
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Beaumont, CA USA

I think it's the varnish, I'd guess that the vallejo doesn't like whatever you're using to thin the oil paint. I haven't had any issues at all with vallejo paints and oil washes, but the varnish may be soluble.

Try Future Floor Finish/Pledge with Future shine (name keeps changing, see this link to see what is in your area). It's acrylic based so the oils and thinner don't mix at all. I've been using it for years with no issues, I can do an oil wash over it in a couple minutes if I use a hair dryer and it's a great gloss base for doing decals over. It's pretty great stuff, been a staple of the modelbuilding community for decades.

You mentioned you tried different thinners, I can't recommend Odorless Mineral Spirits enough (AKA White Spirit). I use Weber's Odorless Turpenoid, not much more expensive than regular paint thinner and no real odor at all.

~Kalamadea (aka ember)
My image gallery 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




U.k

I was cheap and bought standard decorators white spirit. Tenth of the price but absolutely stinks. Which jphad put me off oils. If I use them the house stinks of terms for days. Another change I could make. Def going to give oils a bit more of a go I think.

   
 
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