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Anybody use transfer sheets? I am thinking of starting to use them but I have no clue how and need advice.

Transfers are great, and usually pretty easy when putting them on a flat surface (Marine shoulder pads are a challenge)

Make sure to have the model fully painted first with the surface you want the transfer on to be flat and smooth.

Now cut out the transfer. Cut as close to the image as possible without cutting into spaces.
What I mean by this it so no cut completely around the image if parts stick out.
The Salamanders icon, for example, has bits stick out. Leave the clear bits inbetween these to avoid tearing.

Next you put the transfer in shallow water for about 1 minute. I use my paint pallet.
With your brush, gently pull the transfer off the paper and lay it on the surface of your model.

Finally, starting at the middle of your image, gently push excess water out from under the transfer.
If you accidently shift the transfer, you can just apply more water to make it move back into place.

It takes practice to get just right, so I recommend a few tests. Once the tranfer is completely dry, I always go over the edges with the paint color of the model underneath to hide the edges.

I also use 'Ard coat when I apply the transfer, but this is completely optional.

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Follow this tutorial to the letter and you won't go wrong.

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/winterdyne_tutorial3.pdf

Holy crap, I wrote that 8 years ago!

I suppose I should do a revised version of it at some point.

 Galef wrote:
I also use 'Ard coat when I apply the transfer, but this is completely optional.

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I'll also second this notion - using 'ard coat protects the transfer from accidental damage caused by handling the model, moving it on the battlefield, the inevitable "whoops" moment when it falls off uneven terrain etc. If you don't want the gloss finish on the model (or the part of the model with the transfer) consider a matt or satin varnish over the whole model. I've also heard that you can protect the transfer with a coat of Lahmian Medium that dries without the gloss finish, but I've not tried that technique myself.

 Raichase wrote:
I've also heard that you can protect the transfer with a coat of Lahmian Medium that dries without the gloss finish, but I've not tried that technique myself.

Not tried it myself either...

A few pointers:

-There is no need to maintain the decal in water for it to come of the sheet, all you need is to dip it completely under the surface and just place it on the table while you wait for it to come loose.
-Use a tweezer to hold the paper while you push the decal of it whit a brush or cotton swab. if you use your fingers it will just be a mess.
-There more water there is on the place where you want the decal, the more time you have to work on the position.
-Transfer decals are allways glossy when they have set, keep that in mind.

Now there are a few advanced tips here.
For curved surfaces (like SM shoulder pads) you need something that is called decal softner. It softens the film allowing it to bend to follow the round shape.

There are 2 producs that stands out: Micro Sol, and Mr Mark Setter.
Apart from and obvious price difference where Mark is alot more expensive and hard to come by outside of jpn, the difference is that jpn waterslide decals are thicker then what is used in eu/u.s, so they need a bit stronger mix to soften up the jpn decals, and Mark is made in jpn so it is ment for thouse thick decals. Micro is made in u.s.
You place the decal on the surface where you want it, then apply the softner on top of the whole decal before it has attatched itself to the surface. Try to avoid getting it on the paint job cuz it MIGHT mess up the paint.

I have read that there is a "free" alternative for this, and it is simply clear Vinegar, but you then need to experiment whit how mutch of it to use. I personly have never tryed it.