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Good day, Santa arrived early in Arkansas I got a huge box yesterday of stuff I mean stuff. It seems wives do listen. It seems mine been busy on eBay while taking care of business back home in Manila and that she works for a shipping company a bonus. I got lot of stuff tau, neurons rhinos, predators and a baineblade. I looked at you tube for stripping my normal is oven cleaner or elo from testors which is hard to fine a lot just look like shiny black spray paint was used. On the Marines they are either black or gray or that ugly blue color I am using dollar tree brand Oven cleaner it took about three cans before. Making a dent. I spray let sit in those foil pans used at the holidays. The older pewter figures are stripping nicely but this blue paint is like iron. Please help I have to get everything to a base color. We have decided to to use olive drab for the tanks and apc( rhinos) she likes the metallic grey either graphite or gunmetal for the marine armour. She sent the imperial first battle force as well. I am all set now I think for many months of adding after market kits to rhinos to make them command, recon or anti-tank. Finally theirvwherr some ork things as well a battle wagon and the jet car thing. Thanks for the help in advance a grateful and confused dad.

I use Purple Power or Castrol Super Clean for stripping models. You can find either of these at your local Walmart or Autozone in the automotive section. They are strong automotive degreasers and are safe for stripping resins, plastics metals and even finecast.

They will strip the toughest paints and primers in a relatively short amount of time; however some primers are pretty tough and while the paint might be removed the primer might remain or the plastic will be stained the color of the primer. I have stripped models primed with car primer already and it works fine for even that.

You would want to use a tupperware container or any container that seals to put your models to soak in. I also would suggest some rubber or latex gloves to protect your hands from the caustic detergents. Both of these products are bio-degradeable.

Thanks it added to the list for Walmart run. I also finding green squadron putty just gooped on. I know some use green stuff as a filler for holding the magnet in place. Please don't use a weapon to hide errors. Also what the reason of using common pins to hold lascannons in the mount. I not trying to sound like I am an expert but building models mostly aircraft carriers or model trains is something I did for 30 plus years. I just got retired last week. Trying something new and trying to get the kids away from video games.

90% or more isopropyl alcohol works well for me.

cheap and strips really quickly besides the toughest of primers or enamel.

if the model is metal then acetone is really quick and pretty much strips all paints.

If the layer is enamel then you may be SOL. i dont know much that would strip it without killing the plastic underneath.

Also some paints will stain the plastic so while it may be blue it could just be a stain which priming over should take care of.

honestly if the details arent covered terribly you can generally just prime over it.

Not sure if you can get it in the states, but Biostrip 20 is the best thing I have found by far.

Better and cheaper than isopropyl or dettol, and environmentally friendly.

Biostrip 20 is sold in the states as Krud Kutter Graffiti Remover

Incidentally, Wilkos paint and varnish stripper is the same thing but half price in the UK

BUDFORCE wrote:
Not sure if you can get it in the states, but Biostrip 20 is the best thing I have found by far.

Better and cheaper than isopropyl or dettol, and environmentally friendly.

Would Biostrip 20 this be for metal or plastic models? Thanks

Biostrip is safe for plastics. It will murder resin after a few hours, but works in under an hour anyway

Yea Biostrip is fine on plastics.

Cannot vouch for resin.