Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Hi all,

So last night I decided to paint my Redemptor Dreadnought using the Contrast Paints from Citadel. I used Grey Seer base then Skeleton Horde for the armor sections. However the result was not what I expected. I bought the Contrast paints to help me paint better as I can’t recess shade or layer paint for my life lol. The Skeleton Horde is very patchy to say the least. Has anyone actually had success in painting vehicle with the latest and greatest range of paints from GW?

If so can you share your methods please?

Many thanks

im not sure the contrast paint is really intended to work on large flat areas as its designed to run and pool which is the exact opposite of what you want on an imperial tan. i haven't tried it but you'd probably be better starting with the colour you want and adding the contrast on top. saying that your then just using the contrast as a shade

I have used it on a razorback, I base coated in waithbone then used blood angels red, it went on surprisingly well But it will still need layering to hide the patches

I also used a huge brush, Army Painter vehicle/terrain brush

Vehicles are more suited to oils and weathering, something most other models don't take as well.
Contrast is always demonstrated using people-like models.

The GW Paint app does list the Razorback though.
There is no technique shown, but the colours used include Wraithbone undercoat for all areas.

Azkallean wrote:
Hi all,

However the result was not what I expected. I bought the Contrast paints to help me paint better as I can’t recess shade or layer paint for my life lol.

And that is where many rookie painters are mistaken.
Contrast is not ment to make you painting style better, it is a tool ment to give colour to your grey plastic armys, nothing else.

If you do not want a flat model, you have to do, and learn shade wash and edge highlighting at a basic level as thouse two paint techniques offer a good look and is more then enugh for the tabletop.
But, you cannot learn it if you do not try. Every gamers minis looks bad in the beginning, and at some point you simply have to buy some models to practice painting with.


As for tips, contrast aint realy ment to be used on large flat panes as it pools up. You could try thinning it down and do several thin coats with a big flat brush.

With the flat brush I had to move the colour about so it didn't pool on the sides, tried to let it pool just above the tracks at the bottom and in recesses.

I did put it on too heavy on the top deck, was a nightmare to correct lots of multiple thin coats of GW evil sunz scarlet and AP dragon red

It was just a test to see what it would look like on a vehicle, there are only a few vids on YouTube and everyone says it couldn't be done or wouldn't look right

I wouldn't recommend a new painter to do it, I'm not even sure I would do it again on a vehicle

I'm not a fan of Contrast in the first place, but I have seen some people paint Rhinos and other small vehicles with it.

Be careful for pooling on the top of the vehicle, flat panels can go bad very quickly.

With panel lines and other recesses, I've talked to a couple people and their advice was to do a second coat to get the best look.

I haven't done this myself, but when painting vehicles with contrast I would consider first doing a zenithal highlight and then airbrushing the ink aka contrast on. Goobertown hobbies has a video on this. Be sure to follow the safety guidelines when using the airbrush!

Contrast works FINE on vehicles... when applied with a airbrush. No pooling, nice smooth intense color.

Still needs to be shaded and highlighted though but its a nice fast way to put color on that does not clog details since it is as thin as ink

Thing is, i doubt contrast was ment to be used with airbrush, thats why they made their Air paints.

 FrozenDwarf wrote:
Thing is, i doubt contrast was ment to be used with airbrush, thats why they made their Air paints.

What about contrast isn't compatible with an Air-brush? Citadel sells their own airbrush and has for some time, an overpriced POS. Still.

Anyways Citadel has sold an airbrush for a lot longer than it has had "air" paints. And how does "air" paint even cross with the use of contrast. One does not exclude the use of others. That is a nonsense conclusion that Air-Paints mean that Contrast cannot be airbrushed. Rest asured they've shot it through an airbrush before we even got our hands on it.

it works GREAT through a fine needle airbrush. The pigments are fine.. the medium responds well to airbrushing and does not clog.. in fact it is easier to clean out than the so called air paints and works better. Airbrushing inks is a common thing.

yeah I need to get an airbrush to do my Salamanders & Sororitas vehicles.

Contrast is an excellent tool for the beginning hobbyist, it's an even better tool in skilled hands.