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Made in us
Most Glorious Grey Seer





Everett, WA

There are a few companies that sell products designed to make decals look better when they are applied to models. Before I buy, I have some questions that hopefully people on Dakka can answer.

• Does anyone have experience with these?
• Which product is better based on actual performance?
• Which products have problems on some types of plastics?


Micro Sol + Micro Set




Revel Decal Soft




Testors Model\Master Decal Solutions




Tamiya Decal Adhesive




Vallejo Decal Softener




 
   
Made in gb
Thane of Dol Guldur





Bodt

I use micro sol/set. Never had any issues.

Heresy World Eaters/Emperors Children

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Made in gb
Been Around the Block





I've never had any issues with the microsol/set.
   
Made in us
The Marine Standing Behind Marneus Calgar





Upstate, New York

Another Microsol/set user here, no problems.

They were recommend when I was looking, and I havn’t tried the other options. I suspect there might be a lot of people like that. They are the big name that gets tossed around when asking, so it might be a self-fulfilling prophecy. Everyone asks what to use, but everyone uses the same stuff, ergo, new people pick up the habits of the old.

Hopefully someone who has used the others can chime in.

But if you are looking for something that works well, Microsol/set get the job done.

   
Made in us
Most Glorious Grey Seer





Everett, WA

I saw someone on FB claim that using Micro Sol/Set damaged their model. I couldn't really tell but it looked like one of those Japanese robot kits that kids love.

There's also a claim that this stuff can cause problems on clear parts such as cockpit canopies.

Has anyone run into anything like this?


 
   
Made in us
The Marine Standing Behind Marneus Calgar





Upstate, New York

 Breotan wrote:
I saw someone on FB claim that using Micro Sol/Set damaged their model. I couldn't really tell but it looked like one of those Japanese robot kits that kids love.

There's also a claim that this stuff can cause problems on clear parts such as cockpit canopies.

Has anyone run into anything like this?



No and no?

I don’t think I’ve stuck decals on anything but GW plastic, so the first “No” would not apply to gundams. And honestly if you follow most instructions, you should put down a sealcoat layer anyway, so it’s not even interacting with the paint, much less the underlying model.

The second “No” is with a caveat, as I don’t think I’ve even attempted to put a decal on a clear surface. But I’ve never heard of anyone having that issue.

   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut





Nottingham

I have both the micro sol/set and the revell decal soft. Micro sol and set is king. The revell stuff I have only found to be good for soaking the decal off the sheet, which water does nearly as well for free.

Have a look at my P&M blog - currently working on Sons of Horus

Have a look at my 3d Printed Mierce Miniatures

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Made in gb
Frenzied Berserker Terminator




Southampton, UK

I couldn't find microsol/set locally when I needed some urgently, so ended up trying Humbrol Decalfix. Works great for me.
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Strangely Beautiful Daemonette of Slaanesh





New Orleans

Micro sol/set,

and as mentioned above,
always put a layer of gloss coat,
then the decal with micro stuff
then another gloss layer,
then a flat varnish

seems a lot, but really helps hide the edges of the decals
   
Made in us
Willing Inquisitorial Excruciator





Philadelphia

I've used both micro set/sol (which is my go to) and the Model Master ones. It really depends on which ones I can find in my paint drawer first (meaning it doesn't really matter to me, they both work the same).

I also have a set of setting and softening solutions from Micromark which came with their decal starter set, but they seem to be the Model Master stuff re-branded. I do notice that stuff crinkles the decals more, which eventually dries flat, but it does make me think it might be a tad stronger, which makes sense as home printed decals (of which I do a lot), tend to be thicker than commercial decals.


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Made in us
Pyro Pilot of a Triach Stalker





The Eternity Gate

Micro sol/set. Went from loathing transfers to some of my favorite hobby tasks because of it making the process so much easier.

01001000 01100001 01101001 01101100 00100000 01101111 01110101 01110010 00100000 01001110 01100101 01100011 01110010 01101111 01101110 00100000 01101111 01110110 01100101 01110010 01101100 01101111 01110010 01100100 01110011 00100001  
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Microsol/set. Never had a problem that was caused directly by it.

Closest was applying some custom decals I made, but that I blame on too few layers of Gloss seal and my working the decals a bit too hard.
   
Made in us
Colonel





This Is Where the Fish Lives

Your best bet is to go with MicroSet and MicroSol as they will handle a vast majority of decals commonly available. More stubborn decals need something a little hotter, but that's an issue on its own.

Neither of those are anywhere near strong enough to damage plastic but MicroSol can sometimes cause issues with paint from what I've heard in some modeling Facebook groups I'm in, but I've never come across it personally.

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"When the Internet sends its people, they're not sending their best. They're not sending you. They're not sending you. They're sending posters that have lots of problems, and they're bringing those problems with us. They're bringing strawmen. They're bringing spam. They're trolls. And some, I assume, are good people."
 
   
Made in us
The Marine Standing Behind Marneus Calgar





Upstate, New York

I use Microsol/set right over unvarnished GW paints, and it still works fine.

   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka





CL VI Store in at the Cyber Center of Excellence

 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:
Your best bet is to go with MicroSet and MicroSol as they will handle a vast majority of decals commonly available. More stubborn decals need something a little hotter, but that's an issue on its own.

Neither of those are anywhere near strong enough to damage plastic but MicroSol can sometimes cause issues with paint from what I've heard in some modeling Facebook groups I'm in, but I've never come across it personally.


I've had to use a couple applications of the Micro-Sol to get some transfers to really set around one areas on some models (things like zimmerete coating or rivets and stuff). I let it dry in-between applications and use a q-tip soaked in the solution to press the decal down. End result always looks like the decal is painted on, but it can take patience.

Every time a terrorist dies a Paratrooper gets his wings. 
   
Made in gb
Blood Angel Terminator with Lightning Claws





Cloud City, Bespin

I dont use those listed products.

I use a solvented clear gloss from tamiya in the area I need the decal to help stop silvering, apply the decal as best you can even if there are creases, then apply another coat of gloss but being careful or it will shrink and melt into a mess.
The solvents in the gloss soften the decal and flatten out creases and imperfections.

And finally cover the decal and over painted gloss in an anti shine coating and the result is a decal that looks painted on also.

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
Straight out if the pot, bang it on. What else is there to know?
 DV8 wrote:
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Made in us
Infiltrating Oniwaban





Fayetteville

I've always used Walthers Solvaset. I have the microset/sol as well, but always used this, probably because of the built in brush applicator. I would spray a gloss coat (typically Future acrylic floor polish) apply the decal, use the solvaset and then seal with more gloss.


The Imperial Navy, A Galatic Force for Good. 
   
 
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