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I have found it tricky to get decals and transfers onto models without being bumpy or having bubbles underneath. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to make sure this doesn't happen?

 farshite wrote:
I have found it tricky to get decals and transfers onto models without being bumpy or having bubbles underneath. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to make sure this doesn't happen?

This is the best guide out there

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/winterdyne_tutorial3.pdf

 Cruentus wrote:

 farshite wrote:
I have found it tricky to get decals and transfers onto models without being bumpy or having bubbles underneath. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to make sure this doesn't happen?

This is the best guide out there

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/winterdyne_tutorial3.pdf

Came into thread to post Wintrerdyne’s tutorial.
Sees it’s already been done.
Walks away...

There are multiple ways of professionally apply decals;
1) apply clear gloss over desired area and let dry evenly
2) apply decal
3) apply Microsol decal softener and use xacto knife/brush to rid of bubbles
4) let Microsol solution to dry 30+ minutes
5) retouch misprinted decals
6) apply GW lahmian medium(shake well b4 use), rid of bubbles and let dry evenly

Okay thanks for all the help.

I’ll add that I prefer to use matte varnish rather than gloss; it still gives a smooth finish for the transfer to slide, but I found the gloss was changing the appearance too much, even after painted over with a matte finish.

Decal softener is the main key.
Micro-sol is pretty much the goat's pyjamas when it comes to that. Recommended by most modelmakers for the last 4 decades.

The gloss varnish is to reduce "silvering" which is the effect you get from clear decal parts on matt surfaces, like a bad green-screen compositing edge. Not mandatory, but it helps a lot.

I don't use gloss under decals because I hate the cover up afterwards. Satin works fine in fairness, and sometimes I just go over cured paint. It's smooth enough usually.

Winterdyne's is the bible tutorial on decals....

I use the Testor's semi-gloss below and on top of the decal, with the decal set solution. Semi-gloss seems to work for me as the perfect split. It depends on the color if you can get away with painting just where the decal will sit or the whole area - typically, light areas work fine for just where the decal goes and darker colors need to have the whole section done, since the gloss/semi-gloss seems to noticeably change the color a bit. After the decal set and edges smoothed out a light spray of whatever finish, gloss, semi-gloss, matte, whatever.

I dont have nor can I find micro sol/set.

I do have tamiya solvent gloss varnish.

I apply the transfers then brush on the varnish to soften the transfer then when dry go over with an anti shine varnish and it looks like they are painted on.

Sometimes there is a silvering so gloss before and after decal application and that stops any silvering and bubbling.

 Jadenim wrote:
but I found the gloss was changing the appearance too much, even after painted over with a matte finish.

That's an odd problem. I've always used gloss under the transfers and then varnish over the top to seal them in, and have never observed that behavior.

I basically follow the Winterdyne method, minus the Micro Set, which I haven't found to be necessary:
-Apply gloss varnish to the site, at least two thin layers.
-Soak transfer in water, slide onto model, position appropriately.
-Once dry, if it has wrinkles or underlying texture, apply Micro Sol and dab lightly with a brush to conform it to the surface.
-Complete the painting process and varnish as normal. I like to apply transfers before I do chipping, washes, or filtering, to help blend them into the model.

Here's a recent example:

One thing I would add to all the above comments, is that when you are applying the gloss/satin/matte to the shoulder pad or surface prior to the transfer, allow proper time for it to dry completely.

Likewise, once the transfer is in place, let it dry before the final coat. And if you then gloss again, let it dry, before the final matte coat.

In the past, I've glossed, applied transfer, glossed again, then matte coated it, all in one day, and the transfers took on a frosted look.

Now, that could have been the age of the transfers (or quality, they were GW), but I think it was that I didn't allow each layer to dry sufficiently, and there was reaction between layers as it dried.

 Rybrook wrote:
I dont have nor can I find micro sol/set.

I do have tamiya solvent gloss varnish.

I apply the transfers then brush on the varnish to soften the transfer then when dry go over with an anti shine varnish and it looks like they are painted on.

Sometimes there is a silvering so gloss before and after decal application and that stops any silvering and bubbling.

Amazon?

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:

 Rybrook wrote:
I dont have nor can I find micro sol/set.

I do have tamiya solvent gloss varnish.

I apply the transfers then brush on the varnish to soften the transfer then when dry go over with an anti shine varnish and it looks like they are painted on.

Sometimes there is a silvering so gloss before and after decal application and that stops any silvering and bubbling.

Amazon?

I got my micro sol/set via amazon.

A bit ago there was a thread asking about alternatives. Micro sol/set are not the only show in town, they just come highly recommenced. There were a lot of others.

My take away from the whole thing was that there were options, but pick one and use it to make your decal work a LOT easier and better. But don’t feel you needed to toss your bottle of Tamia/Testors/whatever and go buy the micros.

I use the Testor's Decal Set. I have even used 1:4 vinegar:water in a pinch...

I picked up a decal setting solution set from Micromark, and they worked a treat (particularly with their decal printing papers). I also use the micro sol/set.

It doesn't matter which brand you use, just find one that works (for you)

MicroSol and MicroSet are usually the only thing you need for good decal application. There are other similar products from Mr Hobby and Tamiya that work pretty well too.

The idea that you absolutely have to gloss before decaling is hobby dogma. It’s unnecessary if you use good decal solvents. If you like doing it, that’s fine; I often decal over a semigloss finish since I typically add decals before enamel washes. I have plenty of models that had decals applied directly on paint or over a matte varnish.

If you don’t believe me, go look up the video on YouTube by Will Pattison where he applies decals on sand paper with just setting solutions.

I gloss under the old transfers I'm talking 25 year old waterslides, they are quite rough to the touch and really delicate

I wasnt ranting about not being able to find it, its just not something really available over the counter in a local hobby stores in the uk