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Helloo Dakka,

I have a squad of Necron Deathmarks. They are assembled with superglue and got a far too thick coat of primer.



I would like to strip them and disassemble them to reassemble as immortals. Digging through the bins, I found a product that looks related to simple green.




Do any of you know how this product will act? Will it strip the paint/primer? Will it dissolve the superglue?

Simple Green will get the primer soft enough to be manually scrubbed, but it won't strip it like it does to acrylic paints.

It will not dissolve the superglue but it may make it more brittle (super glue will turn brittle when soaked in aqueous solution, not because it's a stripper).

I'm not sure how long it will take the primer to get soft enough though - I leave my models soaking for months at ends, so I don't know when the primer starts lifting.

Any idea of how this specific product is different from other forms of simple green?

E3DD wrote:
Any idea of how this specific product is different from other forms of simple green?

Apparently, the cost of going biodegradable means green turning purple.

But no, I'm not sure whether biodegradable formula has effect on its efficacy for our miniature use unfortunately.

The regular simply green has their formula changed to more diluted, so the purple simply green or ‘purple power’ generic brand will be more useful for what you need. I soak mine in a lidded half gallon ice cream container for about 1-2 weeks before electric toothbrush scrub, let dry then another week in 98% rubbing alcohol container process.

Useful hints: wear Expendable latex gloves While scrubbing, bag you models in ziploc bags with holes to keep all the small pieces together, otherwise you will lose bits in the clouded solution. Best dump the scrubbing water/paint out in the yard and not down the drain.

Also, try Isopropyl Alcohol 90%. Not 70%

I do like Purple Power. I'll add to use two tubs for cleaning. The first gets off most of the paint, but ends up a cloudy mess. Scrub, then continue stripping in the second tub with a clean batch of stripper. Same idea as having two rinse cups for painting.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Purple-Power-Degreaser-1-Gallon/16778256

 ced1106 wrote:
Also, try Isopropyl Alcohol 90%. Not 70%

I do like Purple Power. I'll add to use two tubs for cleaning. The first gets off most of the paint, but ends up a cloudy mess. Scrub, then continue stripping in the second tub with a clean batch of stripper. Same idea as having two rinse cups for painting.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Purple-Power-Degreaser-1-Gallon/16778256

I tried 99% IPA. Ended up leaving them in for 2 weeks, but the primer wouldn't come off.

E3DD wrote:

 ced1106 wrote:
Also, try Isopropyl Alcohol 90%. Not 70%

I do like Purple Power. I'll add to use two tubs for cleaning. The first gets off most of the paint, but ends up a cloudy mess. Scrub, then continue stripping in the second tub with a clean batch of stripper. Same idea as having two rinse cups for painting.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Purple-Power-Degreaser-1-Gallon/16778256

I tried 99% IPA. Ended up leaving them in for 2 weeks, but the primer wouldn't come off.

Then the item is probably primed with cheap primer or possibly enamel based primer, always the purple power(Safe for plastic/resin/metal) bucket 1st, then the 91% isopropyl(safe for plastic/metal, time carefully for resin, usually <30 min soak, more will make the resin brittle/rubbery), If metal: I soak in turpenoid natural for a 3rd time for a couple of days and scrub.

If the primer is enamel on plastic item, I usually give up and resell it, as enamel remover eats plastic, you can try it with timing carefully just to remove the enamel, like 10-15 min and scrub, then increase to 30 min and scrub.

Denatured alcohol (ethanol/methanol mix) should work, I've stripped enamel of metal with it and it looked like plastidip, the enamel just floating on the surface.

You'll get some staining to the plastic where the primer has etched the surface, you'll also need to agitate the paint with a toothbrush.

There are substances that will eat enamel and not hurt the plastic (but they have issues wrt disposal, safety and so on.

Dot3 brake fluid strips enamel off plastics (still needs a scrub, but this stuff will take automotive 2-pack enamel back to bare metal if you spill it on your car's bodywork). I've used it to take auto primer as well as etch primer off plastics with no damage to the plastics. Yes, you still need to scrub the stuff, but a firm (medium, not hard, not soft) toothbrush will do that job.

You NEED to wear gloves and goggles (with prolonged use it WILL feth your joints up otherwise) and you do NOT want to get it in your eyes.
You can't just pour it down the sink when it's done, either. So making friends with a mechanic so you can use their disposal system is your best option there.

Acrylics will come off with 90+% isopropanol and a scrub.
(Dettol is mostly composed of this stuff and that also pretty much requires gloves and goggles (it will strip skin if applied undiluted to your flesh, and it MUST be used undiluted to strip paint. If you try to water it down, it just turns the paint into sticky goo that sticks to EVERYTHING.