Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Have been searching for good information about disassembling models, finding there's not a lot of discussion on the topic. Thought it would be a good idea to start a thread, given my current project.

My Pile of Shame includes 6 Assembled Land Raiders, most of which have Forgeworld doors. Trouble is, none of the doors are appropriate for the armies I'm building, I'd like to replace them. The models came to me through trades, so no clue what kind of glue was used. The one thing I can tell is nobody used plastic glue - you can see overages around the joints from when they were originally assembled.

Thus far, I've tried the following techniques to weaken the glue (3 days each):

- Soaking them in Super Clean

- Freezing them

- Soaking them in Simple Green

The results are dissatisfying. I was able to get the top of the chassis off one, I was able to get the sponsions off another. Everything else has stayed together and some of the models are starting to show some wear from tugging on joints. The bond on the glued parts appears to be as strong as ever.

Any advice for the best way to take them apart? My next step is to start chopping with a Dremel and reassemble them with Procreate. Would like to avoid that if possible, hoping there's some other solution I've missed.

Can you tell exactly what kind of glue was used? Two common suspects would be two-part epoxy and cyanoacrylate (super glue).

With metal models I've had good luck using acetone to get rid of both, but I wouldn't recommend putting that on plastic or resin. It'll likely dissolve. Simple Green / Totally Awesome / Purple Power and friends can also work, but it may take a LONG soak. Weeks, maybe even months, at full strength. With periodic checks to ensure all is well, of course.

Fire_Forever wrote:
Simple Green / Totally Awesome / Purple Power and friends can also work, but it may take a LONG soak. Weeks, maybe even months, at full strength. With periodic checks to ensure all is well, of course.

Had no clue it took that long. Was giving up after 3 days.

Re: the glue - no clue what they used. Assuming it's different on each model. Given the age, I'm betting most of them were done with Super Glue.

Acetone will dissolve most anything, just be careful as it also dissolves gloves penetrates the skin and quickly ends up in your liver!

 maxwin wrote:
Acetone will dissolve most anything, just be careful as it also dissolves gloves penetrates the skin and quickly ends up in your liver!

And melts plastic models. I think that's a non-starter.

My method would probably involve mechanical removal, using knives, drills etc. The minimum required to get them off, then repair the damage with milliput. This obviously depends on how happy you are damaging and repairing the models, but for me it would probably be quicker than waiting for them to soak and hoping they come off. Alternatively, could you not remove the inapropriate door insignia instead of the whole door? Scrape it away with a Dremel or craft knife then sand smooth?

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
My method would probably involve mechanical removal, using knives, drills etc. The minimum required to get them off, then repair the damage with milliput. This obviously depends on how happy you are damaging and repairing the models, but for me it would probably be quicker than waiting for them to soak and hoping they come off. Alternatively, could you not remove the inapropriate door insignia instead of the whole door? Scrape it away with a Dremel or craft knife then sand smooth?

Yeah, I figure eventually I'll be looking at a mechanical solution. Want to exhaust other options first, currently trying a long soak in Simple Green. Was doing 3 days before, now going to see what happens after 1 week.

WRT sanding the doors, I'd like to keep them intact. I do have a use for some of the doors, they're just on the wrong LRs. For instance, the Crusaders have Salamanders / Grey Knights, I want them to go with my Deathwatch army. The regular LRs have Inquisition doors, I want them to go with my Death Guard army. That sort of thing.

@ OP, The methods you've used are simply means to loosen the glued joints to make mechanical removal easier. It's never a simple "soak and forget".

Super glue loses its structural integrity after several rounds of freeze-thaw cycle where it becomes brittle enough to be scraped off.

Yeah I'd definitely want to keep forge world cast doors.

I was about to suggest a Dremel when I re read your op and saw you'd mentioned it. What head would you use? I was thinking a super fine tip diamond carving burr to remove as little material as possible.

Soaking in cleaners takes a long time because little of the glue is actually exposed to the solution. And it won't dissolve the glue, just weaken it most of the time.

Definitely no acetone baths for resin/plastic. It'll end up as gloop.

FW LR side door can be loosen with a sculpting tool thin enough to pry; if you’re worried about damaging it, you can use a xacto knife and scratch lines deep around the hinges. Unless the previous owner used a epoxy glue, it should be fairly easy to disassemble.

Tip: always look at FW site or online images of how the parts go so you’ll know where the joints are. You can also drill a small hole from the interior so when you soak again for 1-2 weeks the solution can work from both ends. The drilled hole can be patched easily with green stuff.

Surprised nobody suggested Super Glue Debonder.

You can try leaving it the freezer, then taking it out and dumping it in hot water. Back and forth if necessary.
The enhanced and quickened freeze/thaw cycle is more likely to shatter the superglue bond than simply freezing will.

Thanks for the replies, everyone. This was the kind of feedback I was hoping to get, have this thread as a reference for anyone who needs to do this in the future.

skchsan wrote:@ OP, The methods you've used are simply means to loosen the glued joints to make mechanical removal easier. It's never a simple "soak and forget".

Super glue loses its structural integrity after several rounds of freeze-thaw cycle where it becomes brittle enough to be scraped off.

This really helps to visualize the process, appreciate you for sharing.

Am learning the importance of patience. Right now, I have one soaking in Simple Green and another soaking in Super Clean. Both have been in there for 2 days and both have previously soaked for at least 3 days.

No progress so far, but I'm prepared to leave them in for a while. Checking each one in the evening.

queen_annes_revenge wrote:Yeah I'd definitely want to keep forge world cast doors.

I was about to suggest a Dremel when I re read your op and saw you'd mentioned it. What head would you use? I was thinking a super fine tip diamond carving burr to remove as little material as possible.

Not sure what head I'd use. Was thinking there's something that's hard but not a wedge-shape, but I can't seem to find one.

I will be going through the options if it comes to that.

Big Mac wrote:FW LR side door can be loosen with a sculpting tool thin enough to pry; if you’re worried about damaging it, you can use a xacto knife and scratch lines deep around the hinges. Unless the previous owner used a epoxy glue, it should be fairly easy to disassemble.

Tip: always look at FW site or online images of how the parts go so you’ll know where the joints are. You can also drill a small hole from the interior so when you soak again for 1-2 weeks the solution can work from both ends. The drilled hole can be patched easily with green stuff.

Thanks. The side doors did come off one of the Land Raiders during a previous attempt.

There are crevaces around all the doors, I can see cleaner draining when I check the models. So I'm pretty sure they are filling when the model is soaking.

skchsan wrote:@ OP, The methods you've used are simply means to loosen the glued joints to make mechanical removal easier. It's never a simple "soak and forget".

Super glue loses its structural integrity after several rounds of freeze-thaw cycle where it becomes brittle enough to be scraped off.

Thanks for the tip. I'd previously left one in the freezer for 3 days, was expecting contraction to pull the glue away off the surface.

I'm going to try cycling one of the models this week.

Grimoir wrote:Surprised nobody suggested Super Glue Debonder.

Tried it. Whatever these guys used, it was resistant to the debonder.

Here's a quick lesson on freeze-thaw cycle and it's effects!

How do potholes form?

This is pretty much what you're trying to replicate. Freeze, thaw, wiggle, freeze, thaw, wiggle, freeze, thaw, wiggle, and eventually, there will be enough gap for water to infiltrate and expand and apply leverage against the two joined pieces enough for them to separate.

Do note super glue is strong against tensile forces while prone to sheering (i.e. when applicable/available, apply a twisting motion as opposed to pulling/pushing motion)