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Hi guys,
is there a definitive way to say when a figure is perfectly cured? Or what is your approach?

I know, slimy and sticky -> not enough
brittle as a cooky -> too long

But what is "just right"?

I switched from some Eco resin to Sunlu ABS like and really like the flexability. But sometimes I am unsure if the curing was enough. The figure is dry, still flexible, but somehow doesn't "feel" done...
With ECO resin, my printed mechs often took 4-5 minutes in the (Elegoo) curing machine from both sides until they were done. The ABS like figures seem to require only 2-3 minutes.

What are your experiences?

Thanks and safe printing!

 Garfield666 wrote:

I know, slimy and sticky -> not enough
brittle as a cooky -> Just right

Corrected

UV curing resins for models can't be overcured. The UV activated component will continue to react and release toxins into the air until such time as it has fully reacted, then it stops reacting. The resin has thus reached its final state and for many high detail (ergo model making) cheaper resins this is a very brittle final state. It's simply the properties of the resin. There are resins that achieve a much more durable state, some of which can also retain a higher degree of fine detailing - of course they also cost more.

My method is using a curing chamber - 25mins one side; flip over; 25mins other side; then sit on a windowsill for a day getting casual sunlight.
That will generally render the resin odourless, firm, smooth (no sticky) and done.


Any state before that is undercured and resin in its uncured state is a hazard to skin and health.

There's really no set time that can be applied universally, even when using the same resin. Thicker models may take more curing time than smaller, thinner models made with the same resin.

You can over-cure, actually, but it takes quite a bit more than you likely would wind up doing. Again, depending on the resin used, the final, fully cured product may be more or less brittle, but if you're using a "flexible resin" obviously it shouldn't be quite as brittle as a non-flexible.

 Valander wrote:
There's really no set time that can be applied universally, even when using the same resin. Thicker models may take more curing time than smaller, thinner models made with the same resin.

You can over-cure, actually, but it takes quite a bit more than you likely would wind up doing. Again, depending on the resin used, the final, fully cured product may be more or less brittle, but if you're using a "flexible resin" obviously it shouldn't be quite as brittle as a non-flexible.

From what I can gather over-curing is going to require so many hours of sunlight/UV light that you're well into the region where it would be damaging almost anything else. So its much less a case of over-curing and more a case of simple solar degradation/damage. And I've known merchants who had walk-in UV rooms for curing who had models sitting in them for months.

 Overread wrote:

 Valander wrote:
There's really no set time that can be applied universally, even when using the same resin. Thicker models may take more curing time than smaller, thinner models made with the same resin.

You can over-cure, actually, but it takes quite a bit more than you likely would wind up doing. Again, depending on the resin used, the final, fully cured product may be more or less brittle, but if you're using a "flexible resin" obviously it shouldn't be quite as brittle as a non-flexible.

From what I can gather over-curing is going to require so many hours of sunlight/UV light that you're well into the region where it would be damaging almost anything else. So its much less a case of over-curing and more a case of simple solar degradation/damage. And I've known merchants who had walk-in UV rooms for curing who had models sitting in them for months.

Yeah, like I said, it's possible, but for home type users unlikely. If you were to shove your part in a UV lamp box and leave it there for like 5-6 hours, then you'd probably hit some issues. Over cured resins will tend to basically start disintegrating or cracking, and be even more brittle. From what I've read (I haven't experienced it myself, so can't really confirm) if the surface starts to "pit" then it's been over cured most likely. I think in general, the risk of under curing is higher than over curing, so bumping from, say, 5 min to 20 min is likely to not cause any real issues, and be much less likely to be under cured. Again, depending on the resin and part size.

For most of my 28mm "standard duder" sized prints, I find they need about 20 min total (10, flip, 10) in my cure station to be what I'd say is fully cured, using Phrozen 4k Aqua Grey. A buddy of mine prints with the 8k resin and says he usually does like 5 min and flips, and seems to be fine, too.

Thanks guys, very interresting!
Tops I've seen so far wa one guy in a youtube video that used 10 mins, but only for big terrain pieces...
So I've been under the impression that I might overcure my figures.
I usually also did some 4-5 mins a side and then a day on the windowsill for soft after-curing. Guess I'll better return to that.