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I'm going to reuse some old kit.

Can I just slap on another base of the correct size to the bottom of the old slotta base and call it a day?

There are base extenders and 1mm mdf bases, you know.

In the end it's totally up to taste. I'm one to mix different base sizes and model generations in the same unit and don't care, others don't like that and want their whole army in one scale and so on.
Personally I find just putting old base on new base extremely ugly in your picture, but they're your miniatures and basing might save those "towers".

Edit: I mean in this case these are unpainted metals, why not just rip them off the smaller base and put them into slids of newer ones'? The only time I would do what you've done there is when I want to use the minis in two different games that need the exact base size, but even then - magnetic base extenders all the way!

Base extenders work - doublebasing works - tearing the model off and adding it to a new base.

All these work. Doublebasing or base extenders might require you to adjust how you paint the base or hide the join between the two depending on how you model.

Doublebasing might also be considered cheeky if the game is very very strict on true line-of-sight to the model as your model is technically a little taller than normal, but its not out of the question for most as even just a sculpted base or detailed base would raise a model up easily by a similar (if not greater) amount

The hight gained from double basing counters the scale creep.

The double stack does look a bit off. It might be painted and based it would be fine. But if I were you I’d use base extender rings and just roll with the fact that they are a little short compared to modern versions.

If you play with hardcore people who care about the few millimeters hight difference, clip and pin on a built up base is the most labor intensive, but most modern compliant answer.

 Nevelon wrote:
The hight gained from double basing counters the scale creep.

The double stack does look a bit off. It might be painted and based it would be fine. But if I were you I’d use base extender rings and just roll with the fact that they are a little short compared to modern versions.

If you play with hardcore people who care about the few millimeters hight difference, clip and pin on a built up base is the most labor intensive, but most modern compliant answer.

For GW 25-32mm I use 3D printed extenders that have ~1mm under the original base (essentially cups, rather than rings), which brings the top of the base to the same height as the stock 32s. It’s surprising that when you do that even old 2nd/3rd metal inquisitors don’t look out of place amongst the modern models, certainly not outside the bounds of normal human variation.

 Overread wrote:
Base extenders work - doublebasing works - tearing the model off and adding it to a new base.

All these work. Doublebasing or base extenders might require you to adjust how you paint the base or hide the join between the two depending on how you model.

Doublebasing might also be considered cheeky if the game is very very strict on true line-of-sight to the model as your model is technically a little taller than normal, but its not out of the question for most as even just a sculpted base or detailed base would raise a model up easily by a similar (if not greater) amount

I was trying to bring the Commissar up to the current height, as she stands right now, she looks like a girl cosplaying as a Commissar when she stands next to Karskin and Aquilons.

To be fair, a five foot nothing woman standing next to a six foot plus full kit roided up combat monster is going to do that…

I also am loathing the idea of clipping off the tab for the slot base on my "Games Day Exclusive model, that I got when I turned 18."

 Lathe Biosas wrote:
I also am loathing the idea of clipping off the tab for the slot base on my "Games Day Exclusive model, that I got when I turned 18."

You can always make a slot in a larger base - drill through at where the ends of the slot would be, then slice along the middle until you've removed enough for the tab to fit into. It'll probably be a bit messy but it'll all be covered up by the model's footprint anyway.