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I am going to be using a lot of Black Templar decals very soon.

What is the best way to seal your model so the decal stays too?

I'm looking to handle these models a lot.

Put down a layer of gloss varnish where the decal will go.
After it dries, follow with Micro-Set to place the decal.
After removing moisture with paper towel, let dry, then cover the decal with Micro-Sol to melt the decal to the shape of the model.
Let dry.
Apply gloss varnish over the area. Let dry.
Apply matte varnish over the gloss to dull it. Let dry.

It’ll look painted on, and will never come off.

Personally I found gloss varnish ends up with a different texture even after coating with matte.

I use matte varnish (Vallejo brush on, for reference) at all stages and it works fine. Just make sure you have a decent coat before applying the decal. Otherwise, same method as Cruentus described.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Also, varnish the entire panel where you’re putting the decal, that way any slight difference in colour or texture will be less noticeable.

Which gloss varnish you using? Perhpas try a semigloss instead?

1) paint the area up till you want to apply the decal 2) wet the brush slightly and brush on gloss coat on where you want the decal and let dry evenly as possible 3) cut the decal off the sheet and apply water on it, apply it and move into position 4) apply Microsol set on decal, curved area need multiple coats, let the solution eats away the decal paper leaving the design 5) use a soft brush and roll over the decal to flatten any wrinkle areas 6) let dry 30min-1hr to avoid cloudy effect after you apply Lahmian medium 7) shake lahmian medium and apply over decal, while wet poke any air pockets, let dry evenly as possible

The responses in the thread are basically the best method but I would add another tidbit:

Primer choice.

I’ve found that since using a lacquer based primer (Mr Surfacer 1500) the overall adhesion of the paint to the miniature has been noticeably tougher; even without the added protection of varnish. I noticed this most recently while painting my latest miniatures. I was handling them more than I usually would during the process and there was no sign of the acrylics rubbing off. Very, very impressive.

Admittedly you would need an airbrush to put it on BUT it also comes in rattlecans! I wouldn’t think of using any other primer where I knew the miniature was going to be handled regularly now. It’s that good.

Reading this I realize how incredibly bad I seem to be at adding decals. In anycase thanks from me too, I'll put your advice to good use in the future.

I don’t varnish, but just use microsol/microset. Works fine.

https://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/winterdyne_tutorial3.pdf

Is a pretty comprehensive tutorial I referenced when I upped my decal game. I don’t follow all the steps, but worth the read.

Slightly repeating what has already been said but 100% agree that the ideal approach is gloss varnish underneath, Microset & Microsol and then a coat of gloss varnish on top, followed by a coat of whatever finish you're after (matt/satin/gloss). Really gives you that nice "painted on" look and is well protected for repeated handling.

I think the gloss varnish underneath isn't absolutely essential, but it just helps get that painted on look and I think maybe is also a factor in preventing the clouding/silvering that you sometimes see.

My other comments would be to think about where in your painting process it fits in. Obviously decals are one of the last things to do, but depending on the techniques you're using I think it's also usually better to do any weathering after the decals (after you've done at least one coat of varnish on top!!).

For instance, most of my recent 30k/LI projects have had an all over coating of streaking grime as part of the weathering which means I just airbrush the whole model with a gloss varnish before doing the decals, then just a quick coat of varnish on top of those, before putting streaking grime over the whole thing (and then cleaning most of it off of course lol, before a final coat of varnish). It does mean the whole model is consistent with the varnish that has been applied, so would prevent any issues with different textures showing up suggested earlier.

The varnish before decal (whether gloss, matte, or semi matte) is the most important step, as it ensures a smooth surface that prevents silvering (the silvering is from tiny pockets of air being trapped beneath the decal).

Thank you for this. I've been doing it wrong (and getting terrible results).

Hopefully my next attempt will go smoother!

 Jadenim wrote:
The varnish before decal (whether gloss, matte, or semi matte) is the most important step, as it ensures a smooth surface that prevents silvering (the silvering is from tiny pockets of air being trapped beneath the decal).

I'd agree that's a definite benefit of varnish underneath, except that by definition a matt varnish won't provide a smooth surface?

Piousservant wrote:

 Jadenim wrote:
The varnish before decal (whether gloss, matte, or semi matte) is the most important step, as it ensures a smooth surface that prevents silvering (the silvering is from tiny pockets of air being trapped beneath the decal).

I'd agree that's a definite benefit of varnish underneath, except that by definition a matt varnish won't provide a smooth surface?

If you’re varnishing as a ‘utility coat’ for decals then gloss is the way to do it. Many argue it’s unnecessary and, in a lot of cases, decals can and will settle without a gloss varnish (as long as you use a softener). That said, there are occasions where NOT varnishing produces tithe marks as a result of the decal softener reacting with paint.

In short, gloss varnish the area, apply decals, use softener then varnish again.

Piousservant wrote:

 Jadenim wrote:
The varnish before decal (whether gloss, matte, or semi matte) is the most important step, as it ensures a smooth surface that prevents silvering (the silvering is from tiny pockets of air being trapped beneath the decal).

I'd agree that's a definite benefit of varnish underneath, except that by definition a matt varnish won't provide a smooth surface?

The matte varnish is still smooth, just not shiny

But the reason that matters varnish isn’t shiny is because the surface isn’t flat, by design. If it was totally flat it would be gloss.

My understanding is that matt varnish contains agents which, at the microscopic level, produce a rough texture on the surface that aid in light diffusion whereas gloss creates an even and reflective smooth texture.

To the touch both feel smooth and, like I say, some hobbyists regularly apply decals on a matt surface with no issues. That said, the majority apply a gloss coat as it both protects the previous paintwork from softeners etc and smooths the surface to guarantee no trapped air remains under the decal.

I did a lot of agonising over this after starting a couple of scale model projects. As you’ll know, these models are very decal heavy… with most having numerous small and large decals covering the paint. I followed the advice and the results were better than I could have hoped for:





I would add a few more steps onto the process… just small things:

First apply gloss and wait to fully cure.

Get a piece of kitchen towel and a container of warm water.

Using tweezers, fully submerge the decal in the water for 10-20 seconds.

Put the decal on the kitchen towel, front facing up, and wait until it loosens from the backing paper (you can check this by VERY GENTLY trying to move it with a finger or tweezers)

Put a drop of water or setting solution on the area and the apply the decal. If you need to move it slightly simply use the edge of your tweezers, or a small brush, to get it into position.

Once satisfied, get a cotton swab and, starting from the middle of the decal, roll outwards squeezing any trapped water, decal solution or air pockets out from under the decal. Be gentle and patient here.

After you are happy there is no trapped air bubbles etc apply the decal softener with a brush over the entire decal area. This WILL cause the decal to wrinkle up. THIS IS NORMAL. Do not panic or think you have done anything wrong. Walk away, make a drink, watch something on TV… but do not under any circumstances touch the decal. After 30 minutes or so the decal will have settled down beautifully into any recesses on the model and will conform to the surface. If it hasn’t full flattened down, add more softener and wait again. The key to this step is patience and, whatever you do, never touch the decal when it is still soaked in softener… it will break and tear.


Once dried apply another varnish coat over the decal… this can be your finishing coat so whatever look you want here is ok; be it matt, semi-gloss or gloss.

And that’s it… all done.

I hope this helps.

I remember seeing a good thing that proved that gloss is no more protective than matte varnish.

One thing i would add is that GW have managed to create the worst possible shape to apply a transfer to.... A space marine shoulder pad...

You can honestly skip quite a few steps on other surfaces but if you want to get those big square chapter armourials or squad markings on a space marine shoulder pad you need to be pretty disciplined in my experience. By the same token you shouldn't get discouraged if you mess some up, it's comfortably the hardest part.

Another thing worth bearing in mind is that if you are using some really old Bitz in conversions the old sculpts with the old style paler plastic is bumpy and actually noticeably harder to apply transfers to.

A bit random but don't use the Mig Lucky varnish as your gloss coat, didn't protect the paint at all from the microset/sol in my experience and i had noticeable 'bloom' to deal with. Use the Polyurethane vallejo varnish or if you like spending money one of those tiny Tamiya cans of semi-gloss clear for premium results.