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 insaniak wrote:

RazorEdge wrote:
GW used Similary Pots in the early 90s....

They weren't just similar, they were the same pots. The company that makes P3 paint is the same one that made the original Citadel paints, and still makes them under the Coat D'arms label.

Did not know that

A clear case of making it substantially worse for profits. I would go as far to say these pots are not fit for the purpose of holding paint airtight contained.
Whatever you decide to call them does not change the fact they are expensive rubbish.
I like the paints and some colours are unique but adding the cost of rebottling them becomes unbearable for more than a few pots.

 Apple fox wrote:
I always liked the Privateer press paint pots, I still use some of mine from mk 2 since they were sealed so tight. Which sadly is probably why GW won’t change them!

They're good for keeping paint in, certainly, not so good for getting it out. The gakky little tab falls off the lid and you're left prying them open with your teeth.

 insaniak wrote:

RazorEdge wrote:
GW used Similary Pots in the early 90s....

They weren't just similar, they were the same pots. The company that makes P3 paint is the same one that made the original Citadel paints, and still makes them under the Coat D'arms label.

And the pots still work. I’m still using my RT pot of green ink. Still fresh.

Unlike the screw top bolter shell pots, which were dry after one use. Grumble grumble…

 Lathe Biosas wrote:

 Inquisitor Gideon wrote:

 lord_blackfang wrote:
Would have been a good time to switch out the deranged below-gak-tier flip tops...

Oh i don't know, i find the cleaning of the rims rather therapeutic. Especially when you get a piece that just peels out in a solid piece.

What do you do with your gooey chunks of paint blobs?

Dunk them in my paint pot water just like an Oreo and twice as healthy.

 insaniak wrote:

RazorEdge wrote:
GW used Similary Pots in the early 90s....

They weren't just similar, they were the same pots. The company that makes P3 paint is the same one that made the original Citadel paints, and still makes them under the Coat D'arms label.

Coat D'Arms is great, I was so happy when I found out I could get a refill of my old citadel inks.

Sunday Preview – The bigger, brighter Legio Custodes - and the tools are being rebranded Warhammer...

I have zero faith in that new painting handle. It looks like it’s just relying on the inherent flex of the plastic to grip things.

I hear good things about the mold line tool, but just use the back of my hobby knife.

I'm glad they mention the old painting handle is sticking around. Hopefully it doesnt get removed down the line.

The painting handle and painting cups are the only tools from their range I really like.

 Nevelon wrote:
I hear good things about the mold line tool, but just use the back of my hobby knife.

The main advantage of the mold line tool over a knife is that it is much thicker than a knife blade, so I feel comfortable using it more aggressively, without fear that some sharp piece of metal will break off and go flying. It's a minor advantage, but it's not that expensive by hobby standards, and it'll probably last most of my life. I can't really think of a way that it will ever break.

 sigkill wrote:

 Nevelon wrote:
I hear good things about the mold line tool, but just use the back of my hobby knife.

The main advantage of the mold line tool over a knife is that it is much thicker than a knife blade, so I feel comfortable using it more aggressively, without fear that some sharp piece of metal will break off and go flying. It's a minor advantage, but it's not that expensive by hobby standards, and it'll probably last most of my life. I can't really think of a way that it will ever break.

The main thing that stops me from grabbing one is having another tool I’d need to swap. If I’m clearing mold lines and there is a bit of connecter from where I clipped the part from the sprue, I just flip the knife around, carefully carve the bit off, flip back, and smooth. If I had a separate tool, I’d have to put it down, fet the knife out, and swap back when done. It’s a little thing, but little things add up.

I have trouble painting without handles these days. I needed to work an extra mini across my bench last week, and just tacked it to an old paint pot. Worked, but not the same. I’ve got a bunch of the old chonky GW ones, bot the more modern svelte design.

 Nevelon wrote:
Unlike the screw top bolter shell pots, which were dry after one use. Grumble grumble…

Dear Lord, those were atrocious. Whose idea was it to make a hard plastic pot AND a hard plastic screw cap...

 Nevelon wrote:
The main thing that stops me from grabbing one is having another tool I’d need to swap. If I’m clearing mold lines and there is a bit of connecter from where I clipped the part from the sprue, I just flip the knife around, carefully carve the bit off, flip back, and smooth. If I had a separate tool, I’d have to put it down, fet the knife out, and swap back when done. It’s a little thing, but little things add up..

Same. Doing everything with a knife (once the clippers work is done, anyway) is just so convenient.

I am envious if you only work with kits where the back of the knife is sufficient, though. Many kits, especially older ones, have mould slip that is so big and flexible that only scraping with the front of the knife gets it off (with suitable caution of course). Similarly with resin kits and mould slip.

 lord_blackfang wrote:

 Apple fox wrote:
I always liked the Privateer press paint pots, I still use some of mine from mk 2 since they were sealed so tight. Which sadly is probably why GW won’t change them!

They're good for keeping paint in, certainly, not so good for getting it out. The gakky little tab falls off the lid and you're left prying them open with your teeth.

I’m small, I have used a screwdriver for all pots of paint before I had children. So I can’t really comment about that. I just have a screwdriver in my normal painting box.

 Ashiraya wrote:

 Nevelon wrote:
The main thing that stops me from grabbing one is having another tool I’d need to swap. If I’m clearing mold lines and there is a bit of connecter from where I clipped the part from the sprue, I just flip the knife around, carefully carve the bit off, flip back, and smooth. If I had a separate tool, I’d have to put it down, fet the knife out, and swap back when done. It’s a little thing, but little things add up..

Same. Doing everything with a knife (once the clippers work is done, anyway) is just so convenient.

I am envious if you only work with kits where the back of the knife is sufficient, though. Many kits, especially older ones, have mould slip that is so big and flexible that only scraping with the front of the knife gets it off (with suitable caution of course). Similarly with resin kits and mould slip.

I had the displeasure of using GW's mold scraper at my local store a few years back. Personally I don't find it fit for purpose. Scraping a thin mold line off a straight or curved surface already lacked precision and required too much brute force for my taste. It's completely useless once you try to remove a mold line from a ribbed tube or similar cramped space.

To each their own, of course, but I wouldn't recommend it. If you already use a knife, you're better off sticking with it.