Switch Theme:

Ork tips?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in gb
Moldy Mushroom





Hi I'm a new person collecting orks and I'd like some tips on this type of model and how can improve this model.
[Thumb - image.jpg]

   
Made in us
Sneaky Kommando



Austin, Texas USA

Looks like you got all the colors blocked out correctly. Having said that, couple of things stand out -

Photo is kinda dark so we're missing some detail here, but -

1. Nit picky I know, but you missed a couple of mold lines.
2. Skin tone is flat - you can get more depth with either washes or highlights depending on your preferred method of painting.
3. Personally, I'd break up the colors more - go for some different colors on the metal portions, and wires especially.

Eating and sleeping are the only activities that should be allowed to interrupt a man's enjoyment of his cigar. S. Clemons
 
   
Made in gb
Moldy Mushroom





Ok thx for the tip but I did use a washer it's just we could not get a good quality picture but what colour shall I paint the wires?
   
Made in nl
Freaky Flayed One






Try to use some bright colors when painting orks. I personally love to really rust up all the metal parts using Rust-effect by modelmates. remember that an ork army doesn't really need color coherency. I love an angry boyz mob with all the different colors of clothing.

For the skin. I always use a basecoat of waagh flesh, then a highlight with warpstone glow and then a final highlight with 1/1 warpstone and goblin green. then wash it with some athonian camoshade. It's really easy.

I've put a picture of a warboss i've painted up recently so you can see what I mean. Cheers and good luck painting your waagh!
[Thumb - 20130210_161201.jpg]


"He who makes a beast out of himself, gets rid of the pain of being a man." 
   
Made in us
Nasty Nob




Cary, NC

I think the photo is kind of dark, so some of this may be irrelevant.

There's a 'tabletop' quality of painting, and then there's "painting for the tabletop", at least in my mind.

The first one denotes a general level of painting quality that looks good on the tabletop, but might not look awesome close up.

The second one, "painting for the tabletop", means (to me, at least), thinking about how your paint job will look at arm's length (or further), on a table full of terrain and other models, instead of in a well-lit close up shot. Even some world-class, award winning models don't look good on the tabletop (they weren't painted for it--they were painted as display models). If you are aiming for models to use in a game, use some (not all, but some) bright colors, high contrasts, and highlights. These will pick out important or interesting areas of the model, and make it stand out and look distinctive on the board.

For example, with this model (you don't have to do ALL of these things, and doing all of them might be too much anyway).

A brighter green would make the ork more distinct from the kopta.
Bright teef would make the ork's face stand out, or a lighter colored helmet/goggles.
Brightly colored wires or painted/bright metal gubbins on the kopta will help give it definition.
Rusty or scraped metal panels will also give the kopta some contrasting details.
If something is too bright or shiny, dirt or oil stains can also be added to tone it down a little.

Since this is orky, you also have the advantage of grot paint jobs. You can slap some deliberately sloppy slogans, flames, or glyphs on the model to give it a bit of color and it won't look wrong.

Even models that are painted to a poor 'tabletop standard' can look pretty good when they are all out there on the battlefield together. Especially if you are painting for gaming more than display, don't be discouraged by how a model looks in a single closeup shot. With orks, you are sometimes painting dozens, or hundreds, of models. Not everything needs to be painted to even your own highest personal standards. Similarly, while I'm a mortal foe of mold lines, they are much less noticeable on the game table than on a display model. Allocate your time accordingly. 30 painted orks with some mold lines looks better on the battlefield than 5 painted ones without mold lines and 25 gray plastic ones.

Especially if you are painting for gaming, post models 'on the board' and not in close up shots (or at least, include some tabletop shots). When people see individual closeups, they assume you are going for detailed display models, and critique them accordingly. If you, on the other hand, post a shot of 3 deffkoptas on the game table, people look at them differently. They will critique less minor details, and instead point out how the whole unit looks.

 
   
Made in nz
Sneaky Kommando





wellington

check out the photos in my gallery with my ork koptas they might give you some ideas,


http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/238924-.html?m=2

14,000pts ish
/ 2500pts ish
4500pts ish
/marine 8500pts ish

ON A 2+ I GET TO HIT YOU OVER THE HEAD WITH THE RULEBOOK

 
   
Made in gb
Moldy Mushroom





Thank so much for all your comments.
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: