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Made in gb
Stalwart Veteran Guard Sergeant





Salisbury

Anyone got a tips for painting a crushed velvet effect for cloaks? Want to try and achieve that purple/red flashy effect but not sure how to do it, at the moment planning to start with a deep purple in the creases and work up to a red highlight.

CLACKAVOID (n.) Technical BBC term for a page of dialogue from Blake's Seven.
 
   
Made in us
Hoary Long Fang with Lascannon





Seattle, WA

Hmm...if you could find a fairly toothy primer, one that gave a bit of texture to use on just the cloak, that may provide enough texture to dry brush. Using various base, mid, and highlights in patches, almost like OSL. I'd then use a satin varnish as opposed to matte.

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Made in gb
Stalwart Veteran Guard Sergeant





Salisbury

Hmmmmm, could be interesting, give texture to the paint. chatted to some bods who recommended ''salting' today, sounds like an interesting technique so may give it a go

CLACKAVOID (n.) Technical BBC term for a page of dialogue from Blake's Seven.
 
   
Made in us
Hurr! Ogryn Bone 'Ead!





Also an ink glaze. I seem to remember getting this effect on accident. He was supposed to have a red shirt, and I picked up a bottle of red ink glaze instead of wash by mistake and all of a sudden he looked like a pimp. Can't say he actually was pimp, as it was an Ogre.

The Emperor loves me,
This I know,
For the Codex
Tells me so....

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Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

The velvet effect is all about contrast - the dense, high pile catches light very differently, depending on its lie, so you really need to pump up the contrast, almost like painting NMM. For darker reds, that would mean going from a deep burgundy to very bright red (not quite into the pastel/pink range, though).

Crushed velvet, though, brings the texture issue to a new level (and one especially problematic at scale). I might try stippling the pattern with a very bright (Blood) red onto a darker base, then glazing with a midtone to up the saturation and tie the colors together. Further glazing (or washing, if you prefer) with a red-purple mix to introduce some shading, where appropriate, should give decent results, I think. That's how I'd tackle it, at least.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in us
Hellish Haemonculus






Boskydell, IL

If it were a large, smooth area (like a relatively smooth cloak, say) I would probably first try just drybrushing extensively with a high contrast color. I've gotten an effect similar to that before, using the method I mentioned, but it would never work on areas of high detail. Oadie's method seems relatively reliable, if a bit out of my league technically speaking.

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Made in gb
Stalwart Veteran Guard Sergeant





Salisbury

Oadie's sounds interesting, a bit beyond anything I've tried before, but this was supposed to be a challenging army anyway. Might try to simplify a little somehow tho, even tho it's all cloaks I'll be painting, there is about 20 of them

CLACKAVOID (n.) Technical BBC term for a page of dialogue from Blake's Seven.
 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

I think it's sounding more complicated than it would actually be, in practice. It's just four steps that could easily be done assembly-line style. I peeked at the GW website to find some new paints roughly comparable to what I'd mix myself to see if I couldn't outline it more explicitly. Here goes:

1. Basecoat Khorne Red - here's your deep base color
2. Stipple (like rough drybrushing, but jabbing the brush instead of dragging it to get a random, patchy effect) or sponge (roughly torn, like you were applying chipping effects) on Wild Rider Red - here's your contrast to give the velvet look, as well as the random overall mottling to establish the crushed texture
3. Coat with Bloodletter glaze - this gives the red some extra intensity and helps tie the two colors together
4. Was recesses with Carroburg Crimson - this establishes your shadows without completely destroying the effect you've painted, so far

Looking any better or still too much work to spread around 20 models? I'm confident that any of you could pull it off, at least, if you tried - I don't know how far along you are in your painting, but I'm not all that advanced, myself. If I could manage, it's either A) easier than it sounds or B) more about patience than skill.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in gb
Stalwart Veteran Guard Sergeant





Salisbury

Sounds good, will give it a try with some of my older paints, as cant afford to start replacing them yet! If I get any good results I'll report back with some pics, if this thread is still on the list by the time I finish (very slow painter).

CLACKAVOID (n.) Technical BBC term for a page of dialogue from Blake's Seven.
 
   
 
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