| Author |
Message |
 |
|
|
 |
|
Advert
|
Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
- No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
- Times and dates in your local timezone.
- Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
- Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
- Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now. |
|
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2018/07/23 09:04:34
Subject: Metal Hive Tyrant to base and green stuff question.
|
 |
Been Around the Block
|
Hi,
I'm rather new to using green stuff, many years ago I picked up a metal hive tyrant and only just manged to get round to building it.
I've run into two issues I hopes people could help me with.
1) I can't seem to get it stuck to the base properly with glue alone, should I use greenstuff? (I may have positioned one of the legs slightly off so it doesn't align entirely flatly, but seems relatively close).
2) Some of the green stuff I used to try to patch between cracks, I've tried scraping off the excess once dry, but its kinda hard going, while trying to ensure the patch remains to cover the gap. Does anyone have any tips for trying to neaten it up?
|
|
|
 |
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2018/07/23 10:54:43
Subject: Metal Hive Tyrant to base and green stuff question.
|
 |
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard
|
2). Try to scratch out the excess BEFORE it hardens but after it firms up. Also, practice will teach you how much is the "right" amount to use for the patching.
You said you're pretty new to this, the skills come with time and practice.
|
I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.
That is not dead which can eternal lie ...
... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
|
|
|
 |
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2018/07/23 13:55:50
Subject: Re:Metal Hive Tyrant to base and green stuff question.
|
 |
Speedy Swiftclaw Biker
|
Greenstuff under the feet might help give a better bond (especially if one foot is slightly at an angle). However, I would have thought a large model like that could do with pinning to keep it in place. You can use some brass rod or a straightened paperclip. Drill a hole in the bottom of the feet and the base and glue the wire in place to join the two pieces.
|
|
|
 |
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2018/07/23 14:11:33
Subject: Metal Hive Tyrant to base and green stuff question.
|
 |
Liche Priest Hierophant
|
When using a tool on greenstuff applying water regurarly for that tool keeps it from sticking. Automatically Appended Next Post: When using a tool on greenstuff applying water regurarly for that tool keeps it from sticking.
|
|
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/07/23 14:11:48
|
|
|
 |
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2018/07/26 06:28:09
Subject: Metal Hive Tyrant to base and green stuff question.
|
 |
Been Around the Block
|
Thank you all.
|
|
|
 |
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2018/07/26 11:40:50
Subject: Re:Metal Hive Tyrant to base and green stuff question.
|
 |
Fixture of Dakka
|
Greenstuff can be a tricky beast. It's hard to get the right amount, but all too easy to get way too much. As Chromedog said, practice will go a long way!
If you're struggling to get rid off excess putty after it's dried there are a few methods to try.
1. Try cutting/slicing it off with your hobby knife. Just be careful of slipping as you cut through it. You can potentially take a chunk out of yourself or the model. Especially on a model like a hive tyrant with his spines and sticky out bits which are easily damaged.
2. If it's a flat area (again, like a hive tyrant with his large areas of carapace) try using a little bit of sand paper. Course stuff to take out the bulk of the putty and then some fine stuff to smooth it out to match the existing model.
3. Needle files for small or detailed areas or hard to reach places.
With any of these methods the trick is to go slow and steady. Abrade a little at a time until you reach your goal. Slice off slithers rather then great wooping chunks. Combining all 3 methods will likely net good results too. Files of varying shapes are probably best for neatening up though.
|
|
|
|
 |
 |
|
|