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Made in nz
Longtime Dakkanaut





Near Jupiter.

Im i right that FW resin possibly gives a bit more detail??? i don't know -.-

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Made in gb
[MOD]
Villanous Scum







Resin is supposed to hold better detail and allow for greater undercuts on models than HIPS, unfortunately FW resin is often not the best...

Edit; though there are quite a few other differences like heat tolerance, weight and the glues used to stick them together. Were you looking at something in particular?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/12/12 00:49:03


On parle toujours mal quand on n'a rien à dire. 
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






Ummm well the difference between a plastic kit and a resin kit is that a resin kit isnt nearly as limited in poseability and shape as a plastic one may based on the tooling. its getting way better with plastic but in generally you can have a solid model with a lot of undercuts vs a plastic kit that if they wanted those same under cuts may need to do multiple parts that needs to be glued together.

otherwise certain surface details can be much better in resin but has the downside that miscasts and mold wear can eventually compromise.


 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in nz
Longtime Dakkanaut





Near Jupiter.

 ingtaer wrote:
Resin is supposed to hold better detail and allow for greater undercuts on models than HIPS, unfortunately FW resin is often not the best...

Edit; though there are quite a few other differences like heat tolerance, weight and the glues used to stick them together. Were you looking at something in particular?


Oh ok, nah i was just curious because i wanted to get titan for my chaos army but yeah no FW in nz.

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This is how aliens communicate in space.
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Made in us
Fixture of Dakka




NE Ohio, USA

 Stormatious wrote:
 ingtaer wrote:
Resin is supposed to hold better detail and allow for greater undercuts on models than HIPS, unfortunately FW resin is often not the best...

Edit; though there are quite a few other differences like heat tolerance, weight and the glues used to stick them together. Were you looking at something in particular?


Oh ok, nah i was just curious because i wanted to get titan for my chaos army but yeah no FW in nz.


Because? Too expensive? Doesn't ship to NZ? Or because of the people you game with?

Anyways, if you've got the pts available for a titan you can just get a knight or two for about the same effect.
   
Made in gb
Legendary Dogfighter




england

I don't think the Government of New Zealand can budget for any citizen having a Titan in the country.
   
Made in no
Longtime Dakkanaut






resin requires alot more work to get good results. there is allways gaps that must be filled with greenstuff and allways one or more part that must be rebendt into the correct shape.
you allso have the imperfect mould part to deal with(aka airbubbles) and gap filling as there is no stuch thing as perfect fit with FWs resin, so that means you have to get that greenstuff out.
and this is on a standard infantry model. how it can be on bigger kits i dont dear think about.

in terms of details i would say that whit the current plastic tech GW has, there is no difference anymore. 5 years ago there was a big difference.
and then there is the increased weight. some like it, others dont.


you are heading into a very spesific part of the hobby if you feel you need a titan in your army.
if i was you, i would just get 2 renegade knights or converted baneblades instead.

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Collects: Wild West Exodus, SW Armada/Legion. Adeptus Titanicus, Dust1947. 
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




UK

A few thoughts on resin

1) Resin holds the potential for greater finer details on models and, as noted above, allow shapes that are otherwise difficult, require more parts or are near impossible with plastics.

That said GW plastics have really pushed things in the last few years and closed the gap. Resin still, I think, has the edge - though some companies using resin as a stop-gap toward plastic dont' use it at its fullest potential (the design is made to work in plastic so it doesn't go for the best in fine detail for the resin version as they know they'll change over eventually).

2) Resin is much cheaper to work, mostly due to the moulds not being as expensive. It's a major reason a lot of getting started companies use resins now - metal is also popular but is more expensive as a base material to cast from (and its rising price over the last years is why there's a bigger shift to resins for many first time and smaller companies)

3) One downside to resin is that its production is more labour intensive. It's not like plastic where the machine can pop out sprue after sprue in mass production style. So this is a fairly major downside for mass production. It's why you often see companies shift from resin to plastic as they get more popular - the plastic lets them produce way faster and with less labour cost - at the expense of a higher mould cost (and equipment of course).

4) Resin has several quirks to working with it that you don't get with plastics, including

a) Bubbles. Resin can get bubbles in it. These will appear as small gaps in the model. Most of the time a little greenstuff or liquid greenstuff will fill the gap without any problems. In the rare worst casts where a bubble appears in a high detail spot, it can destroy detail in the model. This is where you'd take a photo and request a replacement part.

b) Resin is softer than plastic and can warp/bend. However it can also be heated and bent back to shape (or bent into a new shape if you want*). Often its best to heat and bend in small stages (this won't harm the resin and smaller movements are better than bigger ones which can damage it).

c) Resin is typically more toxic to breath in so good ventilation helps when working with it (esp if sanding)

d) GW plastics are pretty tight so often don't require much if any greenstuff gap filling; resins and metals can both have gaps and thus can sometimes require a little more work around join areas to fix up issues .




*The Reaver titan has resin tubes that you bend to fit so that you can position the arms in different positions.

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Made in nz
Longtime Dakkanaut





Near Jupiter.

ValentineGames wrote:
I don't think the Government of New Zealand can budget for any citizen having a Titan in the country.



hahaha

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This is how aliens communicate in space.
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Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut




One will kill your wallet and possibly yourself if handled wrong and has a slight edge in detail. The other will live till the heat death of the universe and has more or less caught up in general unit detail. FW IMO still does one off characters better (their version of Bobby G and most of the Primarchs are far better than what GW has come up with) but line units are much better in plastic.

So plastic /sorta/ FW resin/ metal //////////////////////////////////////////// Fine cast.
   
Made in us
Abhorrent Grotesque Aberration





Although some people claim resin allows you to get more detail the reality is that this only happens if the designers actually go that far. Even then it only matters if you are a good enough painter to be able to tease that detail out.

I think anyone would be hard pressed to clearly identify a difference in the level of detail between a resin model and current GW plastics.

On the other hand, plastic models are far more survivable under normal handling than resin ones. Thin resin parts just snap off easier. GW resin is also very heat sensitive. Models have a tendency to droop if exposed to summer temperatures.

Also paint may not stick properly causing areas to flake off if you don’t spend an inordinate amount of time washing and preparing the parts. Combine this with the fragility of the material and it’s easy for a new model to need repair work just trying to get it ready for painting. Or for it to need repainting due to issues with the primer not staying stuck on. Plastic simply doesn’t have this problem.

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Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




UK

clively wrote:

Also paint may not stick properly causing areas to flake off if you don’t spend an inordinate amount of time washing and preparing the parts.


Honestly cleaning resin doesn't take that long. In fact you're likely to spend far far longer removing mould lines off plastic/metal/resin than you will giving the parts a quick wash. Yes its an extra step, but its not a vast amount of time compared to painting and cleaning up mould lines.

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Made in gb
Slaanesh Chosen Marine Riding a Fiend





I have bought a number of FW products over the years. DKoK and R&H mainly and I can say the quality varies immensly.

If you go resin be prepared for wonky parts. But yes, it has greater detail.

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Made in gb
Legendary Dogfighter




england

One is warped. Full of holes. Greasy. Riddled with mistakes and takes 6 hours per square inch to prepare.

The other is plastic.
   
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Gore-Soaked Lunatic Witchhunter







I find the ability to heat and bend parts is an oft-overlooked advantage of resin; if you get a plastic kit with cables connecting, say, a weapon and a backpack they lock you in to a specific arm pose, whereas if you got the same kit in resin you could shift the cables around and get more varied poses.

But yes, generally plastic is easier, cheaper, and comes with more spare parts.

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 AnomanderRake wrote:
I find the ability to heat and bend parts is an oft-overlooked advantage of resin; if you get a plastic kit with cables connecting, say, a weapon and a backpack they lock you in to a specific arm pose, whereas if you got the same kit in resin you could shift the cables around and get more varied poses.

But yes, generally plastic is easier, cheaper, and comes with more spare parts.


Yup

Just compare the resin contemptor to the plastic one. You are pretty much locked into one position with plastic, whereas the resin one has almost every part articulated. all of the ball & socket joints help to ad dynamism to the range of poses. you're able to square the hips to the intended target, open them up and the sense of motion increases, close them and you create a defensive posture. That's only for the bottom half. the torso, arms & shoulders give you the ability to explore maybe throwing a punch or smashing something.

Resin does kinda suck for ease of assembly but blue bluetack helps. washing them is really easy, just use a pretty good dish detergent and just barely warm water. let that sit overnight and use an old soft toothbrush to just loosen any left hanging on the parts.
   
Made in us
Pious Palatine




RESIN MELTS IN THE GODDAM SUN. So yeah, it sucks. Nothing like getting to the end of a long car ride heading for a tournament only to realize the Avenger strike fighter you packed looks more like a great unclean one now.


 
   
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Legendary Dogfighter




england

ERJAK wrote:
RESIN MELTS IN THE GODDAM SUN.

Not all Resin does.
   
Made in pl
Longtime Dakkanaut





clively wrote:
Although some people claim resin allows you to get more detail the reality is that this only happens if the designers actually go that far.

Actually that's either a myth born from buyer's regret, or FW designers never go for even something as good as plastics. It's painfully obvious with new plastic HH minis, where GW models have actual cloaks, FW minis have shapeless blobs roughly hewn from tank armour. FW backpacks lack vents and detail, then there are infamous upside down, grip-less bolters, etc, etc...
   
Made in no
Regular Dakkanaut






Cancer
Resin is toxic af don't even think about putting that stuff inside your body.
Prolly tons more if you buy knockoff products (messing with your hormones and such

Edit: autocorrect hell

This message was edited 4 times. Last update was at 2018/12/17 06:16:37


 
   
Made in gb
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel






Meh, if you painted one resin and 1 plastic unit up about 95% of people wouldn't be able tp even tell the difference. I have a few resin space marines and even I forget I own them. XD
   
Made in de
Longtime Dakkanaut




Maybe not the resin, but the FW plastics for Blood Bowl, Necromunda, Titanicus, etc.. are pretty much on par with GW plastics.
   
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Legendary Master of the Chapter






 Phobosftw wrote:
Cancer
Resin is toxic af don't even think about putting that stuff inside your body.
Prolly tons more if you buy knockoff products (messing with your hormones and such

Edit: autocorrect hell


Ehh, no particulate is good for you to breath in. be it resin dust, plastic dust, sand, spray paint, airbrush fumes, super glue, other hobby dust etc.

but resins depending on how it was made wont be nearly that toxic AF.

they are when they are not mixed but become inert once cured. not to say you have any control over what china or cheaper manufacturers may add in or cheap out on.

Be aware of it like with anything else you should be doing in the hobby. its not going to kill you otherwise i have no idea how GW is selling this stuff to children or anyone else for that matter.

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




UK

Wasn't the choice of Finecast based partly on health considerations - hence why it wasn't as good a resin to work with as a material?

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 Overread wrote:
Wasn't the choice of Finecast based partly on health considerations - hence why it wasn't as good a resin to work with as a material?


Could of sworn the point of finecast was to replace metal models. not forgeworld.


 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in pl
Fixture of Dakka




Someone posted a GW guy talking about it not long ago. They wanted to get rid of metal models, because of material and storage cost. I mean if GW was worried about people health, then wouldn't FW move to plastic too?

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UK

 Desubot wrote:
 Overread wrote:
Wasn't the choice of Finecast based partly on health considerations - hence why it wasn't as good a resin to work with as a material?


Could of sworn the point of finecast was to replace metal models. not forgeworld.



Yes it was driven by a financial consideration which was that metal prices kept going up and down (and from what I gather mostly up) by amounts that were large enough to make budget forecasting for GW a major problem. That's what drove the need to change materials; however I was under the impression that the specific choice of the finecast formula was based, partly, on health considerations. I think its particles or material was considered safer than standard resins such as what FW uses. Hence why GW went with something new instead of a tried and tested resin formula that they've used in house for years.

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3D Printing, hobbying and model fun! 
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






 Overread wrote:
 Desubot wrote:
 Overread wrote:
Wasn't the choice of Finecast based partly on health considerations - hence why it wasn't as good a resin to work with as a material?


Could of sworn the point of finecast was to replace metal models. not forgeworld.



Yes it was driven by a financial consideration which was that metal prices kept going up and down (and from what I gather mostly up) by amounts that were large enough to make budget forecasting for GW a major problem. That's what drove the need to change materials; however I was under the impression that the specific choice of the finecast formula was based, partly, on health considerations. I think its particles or material was considered safer than standard resins such as what FW uses. Hence why GW went with something new instead of a tried and tested resin formula that they've used in house for years.


I mean i feel like that is something they may have said but i dont recall reading it. its been quite a long time since fine cast :/

Im no chemist but most Wikis about various resins (well iirc FW stuff is a Polyurethane) states its inert once fully and properly cured. cant say much about china or Russian fillers as i do know that stuff smells like gasoline when cut into or sanded.

but FW resin definitely doesn't have that sort of obvious corner cutting.

Also the main difference in the resin used between forgeworld and fine cast would of been for the sake of their spin casting. as a way to reuse their metal molds.

at least thats my tine foil hat.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/12/18 00:59:54


 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in es
Grim Dark Angels Interrogator-Chaplain




Vigo. Spain.

 Irbis wrote:
clively wrote:
Although some people claim resin allows you to get more detail the reality is that this only happens if the designers actually go that far.

Actually that's either a myth born from buyer's regret, or FW designers never go for even something as good as plastics. It's painfully obvious with new plastic HH minis, where GW models have actual cloaks, FW minis have shapeless blobs roughly hewn from tank armour. FW backpacks lack vents and detail, then there are infamous upside down, grip-less bolters, etc, etc...


To be honest the "finer" detail of Resin over plastic is much more clear when you go to boutique-esque resin models of other parties like Mierce, Kingdom Death, etc...

You can have the comparisons of Kingdom Death resin vs plastic to see clearly what are the advantages of resin.

For me at least , ignoring how much Peregrine loves to exagerate it, I find plastic much more appropiate for gaming pieces, and good plastic sprues and models require much less work (And not only work but the quality of the work, metal and resin is super frustrating to work with).

 Crimson Devil wrote:

Dakka does have White Knights and is also rather infamous for it's Black Knights. A new edition brings out the passionate and not all of them are good at expressing themselves in written form. There have been plenty of hysterical responses from both sides so far. So we descend into pointless bickering with neither side listening to each other. So posting here becomes more masturbation than conversation.

ERJAK wrote:
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No, resin is not a health risk. The chemicals used are bad, but the final product is inert. The dust is bad because it is dust, sawdust or plastic dust or whatever are all just as bad. And if you build your plastic kits properly you will make the same level of dust.

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