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Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





I like the idea of starting a new print immediately instead of having to clean up the build plate prior to starting another.

Sooo, was thinking of just buying a 2nd build plate, they're only $40USD direct from Anycubic for my Mono SE.

Alternatively, there's the magnetic build plate options, they're not a hell of a lot cheaper so price isn't really an issue in making a decision, but I like the idea of being able to pop things off the flexible build plate, and I imagine you don't have to worry about re-levelling the build plate (whenever I pry things off the build plate I worry that I've bumped the mount, so I just re-level it each time... the 1x screw build plate of the Mono SE isn't too difficult to shift accidentally).

But then I worry about whether the magnetic plate would be more prone to flatness/levelling issues, and you probably don't want to get resin between the magnetic plate and the base so maybe you have to clean it before starting the next print anyway?

Anyone tried magnetic plates, how does it go for you? Recommended buy or not really?
   
Made in us
Deathwing Terminator with Assault Cannon






FWIW, I feel like the only real use I got out of magnetic plates is when models get stuck on the build plate and there's no other way than to "disassemble" the build plate to get it off. Otherwise, magnetic plates are just another surface for your models to grip onto.

However, when it does become useful, getting the model off requires so much prying and pulling, the surface gets ruined - this happened to my FDM magnetic plate.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2022/06/17 04:41:26


 
   
Made in gb
Perturbed Blood Angel Tactical Marine





AllSeeingSkink wrote:
I like the idea of starting a new print immediately instead of having to clean up the build plate prior to starting another.

Sooo, was thinking of just buying a 2nd build plate, they're only $40USD direct from Anycubic for my Mono SE.

Alternatively, there's the magnetic build plate options, they're not a hell of a lot cheaper so price isn't really an issue in making a decision, but I like the idea of being able to pop things off the flexible build plate, and I imagine you don't have to worry about re-levelling the build plate (whenever I pry things off the build plate I worry that I've bumped the mount, so I just re-level it each time... the 1x screw build plate of the Mono SE isn't too difficult to shift accidentally).

But then I worry about whether the magnetic plate would be more prone to flatness/levelling issues, and you probably don't want to get resin between the magnetic plate and the base so maybe you have to clean it before starting the next print anyway?

Anyone tried magnetic plates, how does it go for you? Recommended buy or not really?


A magnetic flex plate on my mars 2 has been a nice quality of life upgrade. Mine was £20, so $25. I didn't get a wham bam; it's a 3M magnetic sticker and some spring steel, wham bam prices are silly. Just do give the magnetic sticker adhesive time to cure, 24 hours minimum, 48 if you can. I also had to print a spacer first to account for the change in z-height; the mono se may or may not need one.

When my bits print is done, I usually take my build plate off first, and hang it back on. I have an angled adapter, so it helps remaining resin drip back into the vat (less to clean up!). I leave that for 5 minutes, then take off the flex plate; the magnet is quite strong, but there's a tab to help. Then I hang up the build plate again to remind me I don't have the flex plate fitted (yes, I did make that make that mistake. once. Stuff stays on the FEP...), and help any last drips from the top of the build plate. If I wanted to, I could now easily start a new print with a 2nd flex plate.

So the flex plate with models attached goes into my dirty IPA bath all as one unit, then the wash and cure to get em properly clean (using a pre-wash means the big bath lasts much longer before needing filtering). Stops any small bits ending up at the bottom of the 3l of IPA where I have to fish em out, which is possibly my favourite thing of the upgrade.

I use a small heat gun to warm the bits - still attached to the flex plate, which is just flat on my slap mat - so the supports soften, then just peel most models right off (I might need to cut heavy supports first with snips for bigger stuff) - being stuck to the flex plate secures the raft, so the supports give way at the model end easier. At the end, I have a flex plate full of rafts and supports, and a bunch of clean models/bits ready for final cure. For the waste material, it's easy to remove; flexing the plate gets half of it off, the rest tends to be well stuck (I had issues in the early days, so I lean towards high time for the bottom layers) so I flex it against the desk with one hand, which opens up gaps so a scraper can get in and pop em off. Wipe the flex plate down with IPA, and it's ready to put back on the build plate. If there's any crap stuck on (I've recently started having a small unrelated light leak issue, possibly firmware related), I can give it a couple of passes with a ball of steel wool to get it clean and grippy.

There's no issue with resin between the flex plate and the magnet, if you're going to reprint just pop off the models first thing, slap the flex plate back on and go, or use a 2nd plate. Just clean the whole build plate and flex plate as you normally would when you're closing down & emptying VAT etc e.g. wipe it all clean with IPA. Given all the mechanical work on the models happens to the flex plate, I do not need to relevel these days - the flex plate springs back entirely flat no problem, and the magnet holds it flat too. I do relevel out of caution periodically - the mars 2 double screw is quite strong but not invulnerable, but I could probably leave it longer than I do (once a month or so); no issues with that so far.

The biggest advantage? I don't have to worry about trashing my build plate by attacking it with a metal scraper, and the flex plate needs a lot less force even for extremely well stuck on rafts because I can flex it first to get an opening. Worst case, I have to sand the flex plate a bit, or it's replacable for half the cost of the plate.

This message was edited 6 times. Last update was at 2022/06/17 08:26:31


 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







I got a twin pack of flex plates, so for really simple change overs (ie no failures requiring the vat to be drained) then it’s just a case of swapping the plates and hitting go again.

The volume of the plate amd sticker means that you lose a bit of capacity in the vat, but that works for me. The flat flex plate is much easier to scrape stuff off, compared to the weirdly shaped build plates. And that is after the meme it of being able to flex to get some proportion popped off. It suits making rafts a bit thicker to stiffen them up otherwise the raft is flexible enough to just bend with the plate.

I can highly recommend them.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in us
Courageous Questing Knight





Texas

I think the smaller plate printers (Mars, etc.) greatly benefit from the mag plates, but I never had any issue getting prints off of my plate on the Mars I had for years. On my Saturn I have heard too many that had an issue with the larger scale printers with large prints that take up a good portion of the plate and it exerts too much force for many of the mag plates to hold on and you get problems. While it may not be with every brand, I just do not need to risk it and again, my prints on my Saturn pop off easily enough. Two tips:

1. Always use angles support bases so it is easy to get under and pop the print off - I only use a plastic scraper and never any issues.
2. Do not hold the upper piece with the set screws when prying off a piece - only hold it by the build plate itself. This makes it so you do not knock the plate out of level.

My Novella Collection is available on Amazon - Action/Fantasy/Sci-Fi - https://www.amazon.com/Three-Roads-Dreamt-Michael-Leonard/dp/1505716993/

 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





I have two plates and both have magnetic plates attached, the best $$ I have spend besides the screen protector between the tank and screen!
   
Made in gb
Yu Jing Martial Arts Ninja




North Wales

I thought about getting a magnetic plate for my SE, too when I first got it just over a year ago, very quickly realised that I really don't need it.

Using those rafts with the angled edges and not barbecuing my base layers (20 secs for the first 4 layers) hasn't resulted in anything that's particularly difficult to get off with a metal scaper. I've never even bothered to re-level the thing.

Now what I really need to pay attention to is the appalling state of the upper surface of the build plate... I really should set some time aside to get it cleaned up.
   
 
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