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If they unlock the graveyard or jungle bases I'm in. I'm convinced the best route for sci-fi bases is nice terrain coupled with clear bases. If you want to use these for 40K or something, it looks like you could just use the insert as the base (provided there isn't too much warping).
RiTides wrote: I might be out of the loop, but I've never heard of a 1 piece mold. I can't even envision how such a thing would be possible!
It's late and I'm not completely cognitive. Essentially it is one piece, not two. That is the basic idea behind one piece molds, the top pour area is the bottom and there isn't a second piece. I know it would be two because of the medium they are using, but the parting point would be underneath or the lower base insert part, essentially making no visible mold lines (if there were any). So it can't be compared to a miniature, in terms of mold lines as all the parts are visible so they are easy to see unlike the bases.
They never said how these were to be made. If it's injection molded, then it must be at least a two piece mold. If poured like resin then one piece molds are most likely.
So, the inserts will fit on 40k bases. And I must disagree with you, Azazelx. Cutting down the inserts won't be much of a hassle at all unless you're the sort who loathes assembling models and prefers playing or painting. For me, it's two or three minutes of work at most.
So how exactly are you planning to consistently cut an even 2-3mm properly-flat circle off the bottom of those - especially without damaging the rest of the scenic base? Restic isn't butter, after all. I certainly don't "loathe" assembling models, but it looks like a lot more hassle than it's worth.
don't know how other people will do it, but I will just set up the band saw fence a few mm away from the blade and just cut it.
the other option is making a jig out of a pvc pipe a jerry-rigging it to sort of act like a miter box sawm pop it in and saw with a thin kerf hobby saw.
So, the inserts will fit on 40k bases. And I must disagree with you, Azazelx. Cutting down the inserts won't be much of a hassle at all unless you're the sort who loathes assembling models and prefers playing or painting. For me, it's two or three minutes of work at most.
So how exactly are you planning to consistently cut an even 2-3mm properly-flat circle off the bottom of those - especially without damaging the rest of the scenic base? Restic isn't butter, after all. I certainly don't "loathe" assembling models, but it looks like a lot more hassle than it's worth.
Two simple tools.
Coarse sandpaper over a wood block can also work in place of the large wood file but the file is faster. Use standard modelling files to finish as needed.
This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2014/09/23 09:22:35
2014/09/23 10:06:51
Subject: Re:CMoN + Micro Art Studio Plastic Bases KS
MightyGodzilla wrote: I'm down for either Jungle or Graveyard. I'm equally fearful at the prospect of scraping PVC mold lines off of either
From where?
I think there's a bit of a misunderstanding by some on how exactly these would be moulded and poured, or how mould lines actually occur....
Look dude I don't pretend to be an expert on base making AND I've already pledged my support to the Kickstart because I've gotten product from MAS before and I like it. My trepidation with any PVC based miniature comes from the last CMON Kictstart I was a part of. Mold lines on PVC models are way more of a hassle (than PS plastic) and that's all I said.
I apologize if that came off as antagonistic; it certainly wasn't intended. I into ally had the phrase "ignorant of the moulding" process in my reply but lots of folks find the word "ignorant" offensive even though it wouldn't have been my goal.
Basically there shouldn't be much, if any, reason for there to be any mould lines on these at all, based on how they should be cast (either by a traditional one side pour or a stamping method).
Dark Severance wrote: It's late and I'm not completely cognitive. Essentially it is one piece, not two. That is the basic idea behind one piece molds, the top pour area is the bottom and there isn't a second piece. I know it would be two because of the medium they are using, but the parting point would be underneath or the lower base insert part, essentially making no visible mold lines (if there were any). So it can't be compared to a miniature, in terms of mold lines as all the parts are visible so they are easy to see unlike the bases.
Ah, I see what you guys are talking about (never heard it referred to as a "one piece mold" before).
But PVC parts, as Dark Severance says, are definitely NOT made via the "pour dental plaster or similar medium into flexible ice cube trays" method. They are made using injection molding with a traditional metal two-piece (or more) mold.
I disagree that the mold lines would necessarily be invisible here- there are a lot of overhang on the chaos-like bases, for instance, and each of those undersides will be where the bottom half of the mold is, with a parting line somewhere along the edge. It might not be a problem (in fact, I don't expect it to be, and think these parts lend themselves very well to injection molding in PVC). But, it's still very possible that the parting line where the mold halves come together will be visible on the edge of those features.
cincydooley wrote: Basically there shouldn't be much, if any, reason for there to be any mould lines on these at all, based on how they should be cast (either by a traditional one side pour or a stamping method).
I think we simul-posted, but again my knowledge of these things (which isn't necessarily vast, but I am a mechanical engineer, and if it's what I'm thinking of, it's pretty clear) is that the vast majority of PVC parts made for the wargaming industry are injection molded. This requires a two-part mold with a parting line. On something like bases, this parting line is usually not very evident, and I don't think it will be on these. I'm just pointing out that all those overhanging features do require a parting line along the edge somewhere, with the upper half of the mold above them and the lower half (of course ) below them to form their underside.
ced1106 wrote: Anyway, Tech bases won by two votes. 45K SG unlocked!
Nice! I have these in resin for my Infinity models, and they are awesome!!
This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2014/09/23 14:41:12
Exactly. These moulds should effectively look like a stamp would and thus any "run off," which causes the mould lines, wouldn't be near the detailed "scenic" portions.
Automatically Appended Next Post: This is all pure speculation, of course, on my part, but I really think mould lines here will be a non issue.
They were on the sedition wars ones, so I imagine it'll be the same.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/09/23 14:53:01
They were on the sedition wars ones, so I imagine it'll be the same.
For what it's worth, I agree. The Sedition Wars bases have been highly praised everywhere I've seen them mentioned. I have the terrain and that came out great, too.
Some of these MAS bases do have larger overhangs and thus it's possible the mold lines could be more visible on the edges of those, but I doubt it. For the price, it's going to be fantastic, and more robust than their resin counterparts, too.
It's more the design that concerns me- I don't think I'd want quite as elaborate of bases, but the tech bases and plank ones look great and are simpler. I'm not sure about cutting up PVC bases as I've never done it, but it can't be that much harder to pin to than the same bases in resin. So, overall I think these will be fantastic! Just wanted to share some thoughts on the process, as far as I know of it
So, the inserts will fit on 40k bases. And I must disagree with you, Azazelx. Cutting down the inserts won't be much of a hassle at all unless you're the sort who loathes assembling models and prefers playing or painting. For me, it's two or three minutes of work at most.
So how exactly are you planning to consistently cut an even 2-3mm properly-flat circle off the bottom of those - especially without damaging the rest of the scenic base? Restic isn't butter, after all. I certainly don't "loathe" assembling models, but it looks like a lot more hassle than it's worth.
Two simple tools.
Coarse sandpaper over a wood block can also work in place of the large wood file but the file is faster. Use standard modelling files to finish as needed.
Personally, I don't see why they didn't make base toppers without that wasted material which goes inside a lip. Then they can fit ON TOP of any base not ONLY INSIDE a specific base.
Honestly, the price for these is not significantly cheaper than resins on the market, so I would probably just buy the 40k versions in resin than buy this KS and wait months, then sand the bottoms off all with a questionable material.
My Models: Ork Army: Waaagh 'Az-ard - Chibi Dungeon RPG Models! - My Workblog! =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
RULE OF COOL: When converting models, there is only one rule: "The better your model looks, the less people will complain about it."
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
MODELING FOR ADVANTAGE TEST: rigeld2: "Easy test - are you willing to play the model as a stock one? No? MFA."
Honestly, the price for these is not significantly cheaper than resins on the market, so I would probably just buy the 40k versions in resin than buy this KS and wait months, then sand the bottoms off all with a questionable material.
My math may be off a bit but following your link and pricing out something similar, Tau Ceti as examples, if all I got was 30mm bases, it is $30/$40 for 30/40 30mm bases and $120/$130 for 120/130 30mm bases. They do have a package for $36 which is 20x 25mm bases, 5x 40mm bases, 2x 60mm bases. Comparing similar base sizes though we get:
Not sure what your definition of significantly cheaper is though but for me, that is a fairly decent deal. I can understand not wanting to wait and getting something else, fortunately I have a lot of miniatures that are still in the painting queue for me so bases are something that won't go to waste. I suspect that wasted material is where there would be any mold lines (if any), so going inside a lip is a adequate place for it. These still can fit on top of any base, not just inside.. it just takes a minimal adjustment on par with cleaning a miniature to prep it for painting.
2014/09/23 17:15:14
Subject: Re:CMoN + Micro Art Studio Plastic Bases KS
I've been too busy getting crazy people riled up from ADW games.
We are 9k from unlocking a new base design. So far graveyard and tech bases are neck and neck. You can view the new base designs and vote here on which one you want unlocked next here.
nkelsch wrote: Personally, I don't see why they didn't make base toppers without that wasted material which goes inside a lip. Then they can fit ON TOP of any base not ONLY INSIDE a specific base.
Good point. I've noticed some sort of trend towards lipped bases, but inserts sorta defeat the purpose.
Cincy mentioned that companies are doing inserts, but they're proprietary designs. Which is pretty darn stupid. Unlike miniatures themselves, most hobby miniature painters can make their own bases. Even sand, cork, static grass, and craft paint can get a tabletop painter pretty far. Reaper's Facebook shows them cranking out regular bases, and they had some textured bases for certain miniatures in their Bones II campaign (that didn't require separate bases). I'm *really* hoping they'll do a KS with textured bases sometime.
EDIT: Textured bases with a flat bottom are also less expensive per base to produce, since they do not necessarily always need an additional non-textured based to use.
Alex C wrote: Jungle bases look nice, but I fail to see where you would position the actual mini. Looks like it would have to be standing on the leaves, which would look weird.
I used MAS jungle bases for an Exodite Eldar project and what you are describing is a problem. Still, the bases look awesome all painted up that I don't really pay attention to the errant foot on leaf issue.
My gallery has some examples of the jungle bases in use if you want to check them out.
2014/09/23 22:46:17
Subject: Re:CMoN + Micro Art Studio Plastic Bases KS
Honestly, the price for these is not significantly cheaper than resins on the market, so I would probably just buy the 40k versions in resin than buy this KS and wait months, then sand the bottoms off all with a questionable material.
My math may be off a bit but following your link and pricing out something similar, Tau Ceti as examples, if all I got was 30mm bases, it is $30/$40 for 30/40 30mm bases and $120/$130 for 120/130 30mm bases. They do have a package for $36 which is 20x 25mm bases, 5x 40mm bases, 2x 60mm bases. Comparing similar base sizes though we get:
Not sure what your definition of significantly cheaper is though but for me, that is a fairly decent deal. I can understand not wanting to wait and getting something else, fortunately I have a lot of miniatures that are still in the painting queue for me so bases are something that won't go to waste. I suspect that wasted material is where there would be any mold lines (if any), so going inside a lip is a adequate place for it. These still can fit on top of any base, not just inside.. it just takes a minimal adjustment on par with cleaning a miniature to prep it for painting.
If you wanted 40k bases... You either need to pay an additional 1$ per base to get 'blanks' or 50cent a base for 40k empties, then the tools and time to convert these. Like everyone has a bandsaw sitting around? Hobby saw along a thin edge and PVC doesn't strike me as fun.
And it also assumes that I cannot buy exactly what I need by the smaller resin packs VS getting large numbers of types of bases I don't need or not enough of the bases I do need by the KS model.
And I can get them 'tomorrow' opposed to months away + delays.
I just can't figure out why they would make an exclusionary design. If they were toppers not inserts, they would use less material, almost 40% less as well as be available to not just people who want 40k bases, but people who want square bases as well.
If they are EXACTLY what you are wanting in regards to base theme and base type in the proportions you want, it is a good deal. I am trying hard to find a reason to want them because I have been a huge fan of those chaos bases for a while... I just can't make these work for my needs.
My Models: Ork Army: Waaagh 'Az-ard - Chibi Dungeon RPG Models! - My Workblog! =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
RULE OF COOL: When converting models, there is only one rule: "The better your model looks, the less people will complain about it."
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
MODELING FOR ADVANTAGE TEST: rigeld2: "Easy test - are you willing to play the model as a stock one? No? MFA."
nkelsch wrote: If you wanted 40k bases... You either need to pay an additional 1$ per base to get 'blanks' or 50cent a base for 40k empties...
Or just use the ones that come with your figures?
nkelsch wrote: And it also assumes that I cannot buy exactly what I need by the smaller resin packs VS getting large numbers of types of bases I don't need or not enough of the bases I do need by the KS model.
I think they assume you have a lot of figures unbased or sitting on plain plastic bases at the moment.
nkelsch wrote: I just can't figure out why they would make an exclusionary design. If they were toppers not inserts, they would use less material, almost 40% less as well as be available to not just people who want 40k bases, but people who want square bases as well.
Can't really defend them on this one. I've been asking for toppers for years now. I also wish they'd do some of their square base designs in PVC as fantasy players would buy in heavily. I could use this to rebase my entire Skaven army. Hell, my Ogres or Bretonnians, too.
nkelsch wrote: If they are EXACTLY what you are wanting in regards to base theme and base type in the proportions you want, it is a good deal. I am trying hard to find a reason to want them because I have been a huge fan of those chaos bases for a while... I just can't make these work for my needs.
I partly agree. I don't really have a massive need for those Trash bases. I'd base my Necromunda guys but that's about it. My Orks are based and I'm not going to rebase them at all. My Marines could go well on those Tech bases being voted on but for some reason the fanboys want jungle. I promise you those won't sell for s#!7 after the KS is over but nevermind post KS sales, right?
I get that they plan to do their entire range in PVC eventually but they really need to focus on what they can sell the most of in order to keep the funds flowing. Otherwise they become Mantic and KS is purely a pre-order/primary point-of-sale thing.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/09/24 01:31:00
It's not like terrain bases are difficult to make. I even found a "Jan 9 09" Hirst Arts mold suggestion for DIY bases. Looks like it got shot down because HA builders aren't necessarily wargamers, and it was 1909 or something when the post was made.
ced1106 wrote: It's not like terrain bases are difficult to make. I even found a "Jan 9 09" Hirst Arts mold suggestion for DIY bases. Looks like it got shot down because HA builders aren't necessarily wargamers, and it was 1909 or something when the post was made.
Yeah but if I'm on a terrain building mission I'd use that energy on actual terrain (buildings, bridges, forests, graveyards) and not bases.
Plus I couldn't do their Jungle bases justice if I tried.
Same for their Mystic bases. And I believe their Mystic bases are new, there's not an existing resin counterpart. I've got MAS resin Arcane bases - they are closest to Mystic - like an indoor version of the Mystic bases and they use a lot of the same stamp parts.
Ultimately $30 for 34 bases is dirt cheap and they're nice stuff.
PS - Okay what the hell is that picture of because that looks like someone's on a MISSION in there!
) below them to form their underside.
THE FUN HAS BEEN DOUBLED!!!