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A blank wooden castle/dollhouse 12" on a side and openable. Possible way to make a cheap but decent city wall by lining them up in the open way. I also like that they would be easy to store... Or just one to use in a siege type game. It would need a lot of work, but looks like a good cheap starting point.
Automatically Appended Next Post: Michael's (and other craft stores) also have some interesting unpainted birdhouses for about $10 and they sell packs of them if you need to fill a table fast.
Mine arrived. I bought from the $14-Shipped eBay seller.
Stargrave figure for scale. Only flaws I see are that it's very back heavy (will need some weight in the nose) and the screw holes on the starboard side are rather large, but nothing deal breaking.
Still night be one of this year's great Terrain bargains and that building in an interior is possible is icing on the cake.
the bottom shot looks like a bug stuck on its back... poor little guy.
the landing gear are probably the weakest part of an otherwise cool piece. it IS a popcorn bucket though after all.
Are they definitely at Walmarts? I tried looking on Walmart's website and they were going for $24
I don't think they are regularly stocked at Wal-Mart stores anymore. Maybe there are some somewhere but I didn't find any at my Walmart. The one I bought for $14 shipped from Ebay ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/116074336608 ) had a $15 Wal-Mart price tag and the seller has a ton of them , so my guess is the seller bought alot of them at much lower price (Perhaps the $4 KidKyoto mentioned) at clearance and is reselling them.
Kid_Kyoto wrote: All I know is some guy on Facebook said he got it for $4 at Walmart. But I fine with 14, especially after seeing pics
I'm sure it's something like that for this seller. They must have been bought for a pretty low price to be worth selling at $14 shipped, a price I was also equally happy to pay.
BobtheInquisitor wrote: What glue do you use to adhere toys together? Half of the ships I made out of the Dollar Tree aliens have fallen apart.
Start with superglue, if that doesn't work, wash, sand and file the plastic to scrape off the waxy outer layer. If that doesn't work, green stuff and filing and sanding and superglue and cursing and doing it again and again.
I know the pain.
There is a loctite plastic glue and 2 part epoxies but I've not played with them.
Yet.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2024/05/13 05:26:41
There's a coupleof recipes for home made activator I use water with baking powder dissolved into it but baking powder reallyhelpsit expands the surface area.
"But me no buts! Our comrades get hurt. Our friends die. Falkenburg is a knight who swore an oath to serve the church and to defend the weak. He'd be the first to tell you to stop puling and start planning. Because what we are doing-at risk to ourselves-is what we have sworn to do. The West relies on us. It is a risk we take with pride. It is an oath we honour. Even when some soft southern burgher mutters about us, we know the reason he sleeps soft and comfortable, why his wife is able to complain about the price of cabbages as her most serious problem and why his children dare to throw dung and yell "Knot" when we pass. It's because we are what we are. For all our faults we stand for law and light.
Von Gherens This Rough Magic Lackey, Flint & Freer
Mekagorkalicious -Monkeytroll
2017 Model Count-71
My brother just picked me up two rubbery plastic scorpions to use for Tomb Scorpions.In my Tomb Kings army, so i'm about to feel the pain of this myself. I'm honestly more worried about whether or not the primer or spray paint will stick to it.
BobtheInquisitor wrote: What glue do you use to adhere toys together? Half of the ships I made out of the Dollar Tree aliens have fallen apart.
This is always a variable for toys.
1. I prefer to work withb hard plastic polystyrene or ABS toys and solvent glue (usually MEK based) for the strongest bond. Usually I can tell almost by by touch whether this is the case. These sorts of hard plastic toys also take paint as well as any game model.
If you're not sure, a little drop of solvent on an inconspicuous area will usually tell you. If the plastic melts a bit you're good to go.
2. If it's a toy (usually a figure) made from a stiff vinyl, a gel superglue usually works fine. I assemble, convert and paint them the same way as I would a Reaper Bones figure
3. If the toy is made from a softer vinyl, or polypropylene (that often shiny or waxy looking, slightly flexible plastic often associated with toy soldiers) I'll always pause and decide whether it's going to be worth the effort.
A light sanding of the join surfaces will usually make the superglue join fairly well, but it will never be as sturdy as a nice solvent-driven fusing of two pieces of plastic. Likewise for painting, a good cleaning, light sanding and prime/base-coat with a plastic specific spray can (I like Krylon Fusion) can often work well, but will never be quite as sturdy as with hard plastic
4.For rubber toys I don't bother.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2024/05/12 16:39:07
BobtheInquisitor wrote: What glue do you use to adhere toys together? Half of the ships I made out of the Dollar Tree aliens have fallen apart.
There are two-part superglue/primer sets that work fairly well on most plastics, like this. The primer is a pen-like affair that you paint on both parts before applying the glue.
I've also been having good results with 'oily glue' from Amazon, which based on googling appears to be made from polyurethane dissolved in an oily solvent. It's a bit slower to dry than superglue, but sticks to just about anything and is rock solid.
Wow, just saw Polonius' Batman towers. Really incredible what you accomplished there with that rust paint job. Those are toys that I would have mistakenly left on the shelf as unusable.
The only addition I'd make is maybe adding some ladders to the side for narrative context explaining how characters move from level to level (apart from jump-packs.)
Automatically Appended Next Post:
BobtheInquisitor wrote: Thank you all for the suggestions. I’m going to try to get these things to stick.
Let us know what you try and how you fare, Bob!
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2024/05/17 13:53:00
Dakkadakka: Bringing wargamers together, one smile at a time.™
I finally have something to contribute to this thread after lurking for years. My wife dragged me to a baby/child consignment sale, and while she barely found anything, I grabbed two of these:
the tower is separate from the bat cave part, and I slapped them on some simple bases:
I painted one rusty as hell, after adding some hose for decoration:
I’d made spaceships from the Dollar Tree uh Final Bioroid Alienobobs, whatever they’re called, so I’ll try those again. But I also want to start some modifications on this guy, and maybe this playset:
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2024/05/17 17:54:05
Got my Rebel Moon gunship/whatever and for $14 it's a great buy!
About the size of a Baneblade, but skinnier. About 10" long, 6" wide, 4" tall.
The main work it will need is capping the screw holes with some green stuff, maybe snipping the overlong main gun. And gluing the lid shut, this is a popcorn bowl after all.
A more ambitious person might try and replace the turret guns.
Honestly it comes weathered and painted and could be used out of the box for some games.
None of the parts move, turret does no spin, engines do not rotate, but overall it's a good buy and the best thing it can fit any sci-fi universe since, much like Lightyear toys, no one remembers the film and no one will care.
I have been seeing these monster trucks around and I'm tempted to convert one into an ork truck.
They come in a lot of different styles too. They also come in two different sizes 1/64 and 1/24 scales.
Either size could be used depending on how much conversion work you want to do.
The 1/64 scale is more usable as a war buggy though.
If you can find the Big Kahuna in 1/24, it might be going all-out on for a war rig, but unfortunately 1/64 and 1/24 are generally not great scales for 28mm gaming. The exception is 1/64 semi trucks which are such big vehicles that they manage to look good alongside 28mm figures and the smaller size doesn't crowd the table.
For a good monster truck that's bigger than average, I'd probably not go bigger than 1/32.
Except for Semis (and maybe large construction equipment) I generally go for vehicles between 1/40 and 1/56.