Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
Times and dates in your local timezone.
Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.
Word of advice: Jack up the compression on that video. A 7-second clip should not be 17.5MB. You can get any one of a number of free software packages that will convert to, for example, xvid for you. I use WinAVI Video Converter - it's very low effort.
"Being given the opportunity to know, and nevertheless shunning knowledge, creates direct responsibility for the consequences." -Albert Speer
Getting the light inside the gun, running the wire thru the turret into the tank, that was easy. Trying to hollow the dang thing out enough to fit in a single 9volt was a severe pain in the posterior, and the back door still doesn't quite close all the way by itself. Going to see if I can fit magnet onto it to see if that can hold it shut.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2008/04/17 23:53:39
Still blinky, but looks great mounted on the chassis.
What about jerry rigging 3 3V watch batteries (the flat coin deals) in series instead of using the standard enormous 9V? I'm not sure how much current your LEDs draw, but it might be worth a shot.
"Being given the opportunity to know, and nevertheless shunning knowledge, creates direct responsibility for the consequences." -Albert Speer
Oh thats nice! How are you gonna prime it without the crystal part getting covered? I think it will look amazing once painted. What color is the tank itself going to be?
Hit up the local Batteries+ to see what they had for a smaller 9volt. They were great and even went so far as to shrink wrap the watch batteries into a set of 3 and add contact tabs to either end. It powers the lights just fine, and fits perfectly, though the guy at the store warned it wouldn't have as long a life as a normal 9volt. Throwing in a shot into the back hatch so you can kind of almost see what it looks like in there.
As far as priming the crystal... It's not permanently attached yet, just stuck it in place with a bit of blue tack to see how well it lights up and show it off. Not quite sure exactly how I'll affix it to the gun, what with it being clear and all. May just try a small amount of super glue. Random shot of my crystal next to the default crystal, so you can see the size difference.
YouTube video also, for those that don't want to download it. Heck, I'll probably go ahead and delete the two downloads, since this video's better anyways.
Not sure why you have a problem with the picture. Didn't do anything with it different than any other, and it loads fine for me on a couple different comps.
And thanks for the idea to use YouTube. This project has been a learning process on several sides, both in how to wire up this thing, and then good methods of taking and showing off the videos of it.
Michael's, a craft store, in their jewelry making section. Good store with tons of stuff I find useful, often for things other than what they were intended for. Crystal was a "Crystal wrapped point" by Bead Heaven. I can't find it on their website, but the link to it anyways is...
Don't attach it with superglue.
It'll likely cause that plastic to craze, or alter it some other way.
I suggest using regular old craft (Elmer's) glue, just like with Necron rods.
Eric
Black Fiend wrote: Okay all the ChapterHouse Nazis to the right!! All the GW apologists to the far left. LETS GET READY TO RUMBLE !!!
The Green Git wrote: I'd like to cross section them and see if they have TFG rings, but that's probably illegal.
Polonius wrote: You have to love when the most clearly biased person in the room is claiming to be objective. Greebynog wrote:Us brits have a sense of fair play and propriety that you colonial savages can only dream of. Stelek wrote: I know you're afraid. I want you to be. Because you should be. I've got the humiliation wagon all set up for you to take a ride back to suck city.
Quote: LunaHound--- Why do people hate unpainted models? I mean is it lacking the realism to what we fantasize the plastic soldier men to be? I just can't stand it when people have fun the wrong way. - Chongara
I do believe that the GW "moneysheep" is a dying breed, despite their bleats to the contrary. - AesSedai You are a thief and a predator of the wargaming community, and i'll be damned if anyone says differently ever again on my watch in these forums. -MajorTom11
Either that or getting some clear parts cement. The American company Microscale has a brand called Micro Krystal Klear, which a lot of scale modelers swear by. Guaranteed not to fog
Aduro wrote:Getting the light inside the gun, running the wire thru the turret into the tank, that was easy. Trying to hollow the dang thing out enough to fit in a single 9volt was a severe pain in the posterior, and the back door still doesn't quite close all the way by itself. Going to see if I can fit magnet onto it to see if that can hold it shut.
If you haven't already, I would advise against putting a magnet anywhere near the circuitry of your light fixture. Granted I don't know much about what magnets actually *do* to mess things like that up, I grew up with a father who hated the sight of magnets near anything electronic. ^^;;
BTW, love your conversion!
And God said unto Abraham, "Take this mighty bolter, my son, and smite thy enemies from afar. Fear not, Emperor protects..er, I mean, well, youknowwhatImean."
It's going to have to be a PRETTY strong magnet to disrupt the flow of current through an IC. We're not talking about complex analog signals here - it's going to be simple voltage-or-no-voltage.
I don't fancy running the maths (stupid left-hand-rule and Bs and so forth), but I'd think you'd be safe with anything short of an electromagnet. The issue should be moot now anyway, thanks to Batteries+.
"Being given the opportunity to know, and nevertheless shunning knowledge, creates direct responsibility for the consequences." -Albert Speer
I did end up magnetizing the door to keep it closed. Used a small rare earth magnet, and it's a good inch, inch and a half away from the board, and seems to have no visible effect on it. Even though I put in the smaller battery and now physically had more room to close the door, it no longer wanted to stay closed by itself. Probably due to me building, breaking apart, and rebuilding this thing several times getting everything situated and working, as I know befor the door would stick closed.
Gotten the various knickknacks glued on, green stuffed some of the more visible gaps I could find, cleaned off some of the excess glue (did i mention building/rebuilding it several times?) and think I'm ready to start painting it now.
Minor note. With all the batteries, board, wires, not to mention all the metal bitz that are standard on a Fire Prism that throw off it's balance and add weight, I decided I trust the brittleness of the clear flying base rods even less, and went ahead and made my own. I like the sturdiness of it much more, and will probably make em for my Wave Serpents too.