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Delkins' Carnifex to Trygon conversion + Dynamic Basing - Step by step guide!  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
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Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






Greetings all! I've actually been working on this at an OCD pitch so haven't taken the time over the past few days to post WIP pics.. so here's everything at the same time!





-EDIT-
I was browsing the interweb looking at some peoples' mawlocks and revived this post for some basing inspiration. Enjoy!

This message was edited 7 times. Last update was at 2010/02/10 04:37:32


   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






Here's what I started with. I wanted to go for a more dynamic model, portraying how a Trygon would get to dinner. Obvioused based around a carnifex model, which I ordered for just this purpose!

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2008/08/03 03:45:05


   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






The first thing I did was cut the tail off the lower torso half and throw away the legs. I then mounted it to a 5" round piece of plywood (just a little larger than 120mm) with a copper wire and covered it in sculpt.


   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






Next came building up the torso, head, and tail. I added mandibles to the head for the ravener look and the fins to the shoulders (that I suppose would prevent the vents on the back from getting caught underground). I also ended up extending the forwardmost plate on the carnifex head to give the whole front of the model a pointy feel.

^And filled in the vent stacks


This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2008/08/03 03:56:55


   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






The rest of the tail was sculpted in one go. The end of it was terminated in such a way that I could paint it to look like it was coming out of a hole in the ground.



   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






For the next step I tacked the pieces together for a final torso-angle, then added armor plates and a bunch o' arms
The arms include 1 set of Carnifex scything talons, 2 sets of monstrous creature scything talons (one set cut shorter), and 8 pairs of hormy arms at varying lengths

This first pic is just the fit next to an orc for size


It's very tricky setting up arm angles that look aggressive rather than just kind of flailing and odd... Especially when there are 2 dozen sticking out all over the place.



Armor plates and additional arms added


View from the top

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2008/08/05 05:08:43


   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






Next comes the basing!



----- Will post in a bit to keep bumping the thread forward! -----

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2008/08/03 04:15:43


   
Made in us
Prescient Cryptek of Eternity





Mayhem Comics in Des Moines, Iowa

So dang cool looking! Make me several eh?

 
   
Made in gb
Grumpy Longbeard






That's really top work, I can't wait to see it painted.

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Made in us
Stone Bonkers Fabricator General






A garden grove on Citadel Station

Looks awesome.

ph34r's Forgeworld Phobos blog, current WIP: Iron Warriors and Skaven Tau
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Storm Trooper with Maglight






Catachan

That is an awesome conversion

   
Made in us
Nasty Nob on Warbike with Klaw





St. Louis, MO

I have to say... skill-wise, this thing is spectacular.
What (brand name) material are you using for the sculpted parts?

I'm comcernted about the size, though. Can you take a pic of it next to something large, like a tank or Carnifex?
It LOOKS quite a bit smaller than the FW model.

Eric

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Made in gb
Junior Officer with Laspistol





Sheffield, England

Nicely done. Love the pose.

The 28mm Titan Size Comparison Guide
Building a titan? Make sure you pick the right size for your war engine!

 
   
Made in sg
Virulent Space Marine dedicated to Nurgle




Sweden but live in singapore

Looks real nice, what is that you are modelling with???

 
   
Made in us
Paramount Plague Censer Bearer





TEXAS

in the pic I believe its a product called Apoxie-sculpt, in the white colour variant of course.

ATTACK OF THE TYPO!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2008/08/03 16:41:49


 
   
Made in sg
Virulent Space Marine dedicated to Nurgle




Sweden but live in singapore

ok cool, cheers mate

 
   
Made in us
The Last Chancer Who Survived





Norristown, PA

Looks awsome, and thanks for the pics and ideas.. this is exactly the same project I'm about to start! Though I'm going to be giving mine less of a tail, I want to try and model it like it's just busting out of the ground.

How did you do the shorter 3rd row of tallons? is it just a normal fex tallon that you cut short?

 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






Time for more updates! to answers for everyone's questions- I use "Apoxie Sculpt" from Aves studio as my medium. It's working consistancy is tackier and not quite as firm as kneadatite (greenstuff) and when set it isn't as resilient, but it is muuch muuuuuch cheaper. As far as the size of the model, it doesn't stand quite as tall as the forgeworld Trygon due to the pose, but they are the sames size (The FW model has the same bulk as the carnifex).

   
Made in us
Road-Raging Blood Angel Biker




Canfield, OH

Wow very nice.....

"...THIS IS THE INTERWEBZ! Where people aren't about to let the lack of having the slightest idea what they are talking about slow them down one bit! ;-).....And they'll get angry at others for disagreeing." - jmurph

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Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






The look I was going for on the base just reflects how it will generally arrive on the table, bursting through the floor and slamming directly into the line.

The first step (not pictured) involved sketching out what I actually wanted to do! I just traced the circle onto a piece of paper and started brainstorming. What I ended up with is some cracked floor with a reinforced wall being gently moved out of the way.



With that portion set and in place I proceeded to model a little earth displacement so it looked like it was BURSTING from the ground- no sneaky entrances here.


   
Made in us
Battleship Captain





Perth

I marvel at your mad sculpting skillz. Looks pretty fantastic!

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Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






And lastly, adding a few more sheets of displaced concrete.



With all that dry, I added basic texturing for the dirt (sand on woodglue)

   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






There you have it! After that, it's all up to you how you want it to look.

   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






For my Tyranid paint scheme, I use a low contrast red-brown look. Body parts were sprayed flat white and terrain flat black (with your basic 99 cent spray paint from walmart).


   
Made in us
Prescient Cryptek of Eternity





Mayhem Comics in Des Moines, Iowa

The sheer speed of your progress puts me to shame.

 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






Basic plate colors and talon/teeth colors are built up the same.

Armor plates get a nice application of scab red. Dipping the brush in water then getting some paint gives me the thickness I need, I'm not sure what ratio that would be. It isn't a wash consistancy, just slitghly thinned so recesses end up darker than large surfaces.


Next, a scortched earth base for all the pokey bits. All the plates get a first wash of Bestial brown.


A second wash of bestial brown for the armor, and streaked on brown for all the teeth/claws. I applied the bestial wash to the tail section as well.


To finish off the base color for everything, some Snakebite Leather


   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






Also, a thing to note is the flat surface where the tail is attached to the base. This is being painted as well in such a way as it looks like it's coming out of a hole. I continued painting the body pattern for 3 more segments, and would later shade it with a few applications of black ink.

   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






Highlighting was done with Commando Khaki then Bleached Bone. Black was added between plates and little spots were added to the skin.





There's also an unpictured final white highlight on all the teeth/claws/spikes

   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






AAAAAAND DIP!

The last 3 layers consist of 2 flesh washes and a brown ink. I used standard GW inks, diluted to about 3:1 water:ink with a drop of white glue dissolved in. You want to get good coverage on everything with shading in recesses, without having huge pools or tide marks left on the model. And no.. I don't physically dip my models, just use a large (size1) brush for good ink control.

Flesh washx2


Brown ink on everything except for the spikey parts



   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






For the base painting, I just layered from skortched brown -> bleached bone with the same colors I used on the model. Streaked on thin coats of codex and fortress grey then white for the concrete

   
 
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