Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

what do you need to start painting ur warhammer 40k figures (please give a list and prices please and thank u)

-paints and inks. between £1 and £2, depending on where from. the army you are doing dictates the amount of colours you will use really, but tourney standard is 3 colours.
-brushes, of varying sized. about £15 is adequate for enough brushes to start you off.
-an old jam jar. this is free with jam, and is used to contain water.
-a cloth or a roll of toilet paper. for drying brushes.
-glue. superglue and plastic glue.
-water.
-needle files and a craft knife. my set of files cost £2, and craft knives are around £1-£3.
-PVA/wood glue
-basing materials, sand, flock, etc. these are £3 a pot from GW but they are cheaper elsewhere i assume...
-and of course your relevant mini's

i hope that helped

Getting started with painting

http://kan.org/michael/mkp/new_painter.php

a few tips:

I like GW paints and brushes, however everything else they sell is very overpriced. Their glue sucks. I buy my glue, knives/blades, files, etc from hobby stores. Plasticard (styrene card) is also available from hobby stores, and is absolutely fantastic. If you like greenstuff, I suggest ebay. You can get 36" for around the same price that GW sells 12". The more greenstuff you have, the better you get with it and the more cool sculpted gak you end up with.

Don't buy cheap craft knives, they break too easily (the plastic type that come in packs of ten).

Look after your brushes... or buy lots of cheapish ones. Don't get brushes that shed hair.

Merry Christmas!
Get yourself a desktop lamp with a daylight
bulb.A normal bulb gives you light from
the warm end of the spectrum,whereas a
daylight bulb comes from the cold end.
This gives you a truer light more akin
to daylight.Also better if you need to
paint at night.

Get yourself at least 2 brushes size 10/0 or smaller, something to hold water in, paper towels, baking paper(or whatever else to paint over, newspaper or waxpaper also work), the paints themselves, primer, clearcoat and optional paint thinner/brush cleaner.

For brushes, at least 2 10/0 or smaller are what I consider required. Great for details, which you'll find a lot of on GW models. You would also probably want a larger brush, a very fine detail brush, and some variable brushes in between. Also of importance are drybrushes. Buy a few moderate to small size brushes for cheap. Doesn't matter what quality, they won't last long enough to justify being expensive.

In the case of primer, GW primer is way too expensive. Duplicolor Sandable Primer is the way to go. A third the price of GW primer, and its the best you can get. It takes a bit longer to dry then GW primer(about an hour to an hour and a half for a man-sized mini, as opposed to GW primer taking about 15 minutes from what I hear), but is totally worth it.

In the case of paint, GW paints are a bit more expensive, but I really like them. Vajello paints are also an option, and they tend to be fairly good, but I find that some of their can be very watery. Their Black Glaze is the best wash on the face of the planet.

Lastly, for clearcoat, once again, GW stuff is too expensive. Get Testors dullcoat. Wonderful stuff.

Also, for optional bits, I recommend a needle. They're wonderful for painting and greenstuffing.

the most important hobby tool for me personally would be
a good quality shear plier.

they leave nice clean cuts off the plastic sprue frames saving you lots of time just from not having to smooth out those areas.

mine is durable enough to cut through 1cm thick of pewter without much effort ( which means it also wont warp the shape of the metal and you wont need a model saw ), and still sharp enough trim / clean mold lines like a xacto knife can.

below is the one i have

http://www.xuron.com/consumer/shears.htm

A chair that doesn't hurt your back when you paint. I used to lean over tables and hold my wrists on my painting table when I painted and it was doing terrible things to my back. So I got a good chair I could rests my arms on and I could lower if I needed to brace my wrists on it. It can come a little later.

also a nice lamp. prefer with Natural Spectrum Light Bulbs .

1) its better for your eyes.

2) your color will look the same to you visually whether you painted in day time or night time.

too often have i painted with florescent bulbs at night and looked the next morning and thought WAAA? color are completely different.

Know those vending machines in the entryways of supermarkets (assuming your American, or if not hoping that its similar elsewhere in the world) there are usual quarter machines with lame toys in little plastic bubbles that are great for mixing paints. Plus its fun to get yourself a little surprise every now and then.

A mixing pallette is also nice to have, around a $1 at a hobby store or cheaper from your local Big Box store. Also, try a wet pallette: put a large dish sponge (the kind without a scrubby side) into a square disposeable tupperware with 1/2" of water then put a square of parchment paper (available in the baking aisle or the aluminum foil aisle of your grocery store) cut to fit the sponge right on top of it. This will keep your paint from drying out as quickly and also helps when blending paint to keep it moist. Best of all, if you pop on the lid your paint will stay good for a few days. Just make sure that you keep water in the container, but only enough to keep the sponge damp.

Also, before buying paints, see if your FLGS has some painters that will let you try their paints, especially if they have some of GW's competitor's like Vallejo, Reaper, etc. I've found wonderful colors in Reaper that I can't reliably duplicate without extensive mixing with GW and many folks around here swear the safety of their armies on the effectiveness of Vallejo. The golden rule of painting/modelling is "Do what works for you!" - someone else's method may not be what you like or feel comfortable with. Doing things your way while keeping an open mind to other's suggestions is the best way to improve your technique. Keep it up and let's see some pics!

this is my first sapce marines its a ultramarine well i choose this chapter to calm my opponent because blue is a calming color so ya right before they where going to get buchered and killed into oblivion : if theres any addvice any comments anything at all please tell me i want to comtinue and make them a better quality if you want to know my materials just pm me

First off I'd see a doctor about that growth between your nose and your lip.... it could be fatal.

Secondly: Blue looks good, metal though looks too shiny, perhaps a badab black over the metal. The stuff is awesome.

k thanks and for the first comment i was moving when taking the pics and second the web cam is terrible so that could have affected the outcome but thanks

What are some alternatives to PVA glue?

White glue at your local dollar store. its what I use and they come out fine.

It looks ok from what I can see. Once you have gotten the base colours painted neatly (which it looks like you've done) I would reccomend trying out the GW washes, quick and easy to use and will enhance the look of your models.

I second the recommendation of the GW washes, they're ace.

Wood glue is a nice alternative to PVA glue as well.

Make sure to base your models as well... Paint the base of the model with some watered down wood glue (whole milk consistency) and sprinkle a mixture of sand and dry, clean kitty litter (non clumping works best) then once it's dry coat it with the watered down glue to seal the litter before getting it painted. Add a bit of lawn detrius, a small rock, maybe some static grass and you've got a nicely done tabletop standard!