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Made in us
Winter Guard






Hi, I am new to scratch building, and new to using plasticard. I went with the cheap way and picked up a bunch of "for sale" signs at my local hardware store. I got them in varying thicknessess, and am having some problems. The fact is that I can't seem to achieve a clean joint between two pieces of the plasticard. Either one piece overlaps the other, or the glue dosn't stick strong enough. I would like some help on how to attach plasticard together, and what is the best glue, or method to use.
This is the glue that I use, it works great for models, but not so great for plasticard.
[Thumb - glue.gif]

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2009/06/17 23:44:58


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Made in us
Stone Bonkers Fabricator General






A garden grove on Citadel Station

Any super glue should work. I haven't worked with for sale signs, but I use plasticard with regular super glue.

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Tunneling Trygon





I doubt the plasticard is styrene, but if it is, use plastic cement, not super glue.

Depending on your build approach, overlap isn't necessarily bad. It can work very well to leave an overlap, let everything dry fully, then trip the overlap. This can leave a very clean edge.

No matter how careful you are, some level of sanding and filling is likely to be necessary.



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Probably somewhere I shouldn't be

From your description, I suspect that they are quite stiff and glossy sheets? It's most likely not the same stuff as you buy from a modelling store (styrene), but it's not bad for those on a budget. Getting them to stick is much harder though, regular plastic cement might not be much better. You can improve adhesion by roughening up the surfaces to be joined a little with very fine sandpaper, and you might want to try an epoxy glue like araldite.
Overall though it's much, much easier to use proper sheet styrene and plastic cement if you can afford it.

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Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

I use liquid poly cement for styrene sheet (which I get in A2 sheets) and cut up as needed.

Brush on, press together and done.

That glue is a cyano-acrylate adhesive (ACC/superglue) just like any other superglue. Not the best suited for plastics.

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Made in us
Hellacious Havoc






NC

Phryxis wrote:I doubt the plasticard is styrene, but if it is, use plastic cement, not super glue.

Depending on your build approach, overlap isn't necessarily bad. It can work very well to leave an overlap, let everything dry fully, then trip the overlap. This can leave a very clean edge.

No matter how careful you are, some level of sanding and filling is likely to be necessary.



Can anyone who was worked with the for sale signs confirm/deny if they are Plasticard/Styrene or not? I was wanting to do the same thing as the OP is doing

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2009/06/18 15:46:11


 
   
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Enginseer with a Wrench





Salt Lake City, UT

Plastic cement should still work regardless of whether or not it's actually styrene. It may not work as well, but it will get a better bond than cyano-acrylate, which will allow you to trim/sand the rough edges.
   
Made in us
Winter Guard






From your description, I suspect that they are quite stiff and glossy sheets?

Yes, they are. I'm going to look around for the styrene that you are talking about. Hopefully my hobby store will have some in stock.

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Enginseer with a Wrench





Salt Lake City, UT

Styerene is also available via online retailers for relatively good pricing. Especially if you want a lot of it.
   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut






Burtucky, Michigan

Well if your having problems with them bonding, just simply lightly sand them down where you want to bond them. Thats what I have to do with the signs I use for card. It only takes a few secs and it works wonders. Failing that, some joints just cut a small rectangular piece, and glue it to the backs of the joining pieces. It reinforces the joints, as well as making more area for the glue to stick to.
   
 
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