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Hey guys, I recently got the AoBR set and got them all assembled. Started painting some of them using the guide that came in the little pamphlet, but kinda deviated towards the end, so tell me what you think. Comments, tips, constructive criticism, negative criticism, anything is welcome, just tell me what you think

Looks pretty cool. Do you have any washes? Also did you Prime these guys? My first few models (Old School Skaven) were Horrid, you look like you have a good eye! A Wash of a darker color and then some highlights. Just my 2 cents.

Thanks for the feedback. I primed with some off brand acrylic black i had lying around, washed the entire thing with Badab black, and used GW paints for the rest. And what methods do you use to highlight?

What lighter blues do you have? Also if you don't mix bleached bone and that blue 1 to 1.

I have ultramarines blue, so highlight with that? And where should the highlights be? Sorry for the noobish questions lol, but just wondering.

Dont worry, your like me but i think ure painting is a lot better then myne!

I THINK IT IS AWESOME FOR A FIRST MODEL!

p.s i wood love to see more of your figures

It is not that noobi of a question, a lot of people even in some of my illustration classes don't know how light works!



This is a very good starting point. Basic rules are Primary light source, and bounce light. A cool way to gauge is to use an LED flashlight in place of your Sun, or main light source, and use that to light the model, then put your paint down.

well, You smoked my first models!

It looks quite patchy; almost as if you've drybrushed the blue on to primer. Thin your base colour with a little water and try to lay down a couple of coats of solid blue on the armour.

I honestly wouldn't bother with highlighting to begin with. A good wash will bring out the shades and details nicely.

Nalyd wrote:well, You smoked my first models!

x2!

You may want to thin your paint a bit more but not bad by any means. And as Obiwan said "You've taken your first step into a larger world". Keep it up!

It's definitely a good start.

A couple of quick tips for improving the final model:

- Clean off the mould lines. This can be done with a small file, or by scraping with the blade of a scalpel or hobby knife. It's a bit of work, but improves the look of the model no end.

- Drill out the bolter barrel. Again, a minor detail that makes a surprising amount of difference to the end product. If you don't have one, pick yourself up a pin vice and a 1mm drill bit. Cut the mould tab off the end of the bolter barrel, and then just drill in the centre of the barrel a couple of millimetres. If you want to get really spiffy, drill in far enough that the hole goes further in than the flash holes on the sides of the barrel, and then drill through those as well.

- Washes on flat armour can look a little messy. So while they can be great for getting shading into the crevices, it's better to follow it up with another coat of paint over the flat surfaces (being careful to not get paint in the crevices you've just washed) to neaten them up again.


- Highlight with a paler blue than whatever you've used on the armour (or with the same blue with a little white mixed in if that's all you have). Apply the highlight to the upper edges of the armour... anywhere there's an edge or a seam. This gives the illusion (somewhat) of a light-source that is above the model.

As you get better at it, highlights can be expanded, stronger on upper surfaces with lighter highlights elsewhere... but that requires careful blending of colours, so is something that comes with practice.


- Take smaller or less zoomed-in pictures. The camera isn't forgiving of flaws, and a model that looks great in real life almost always looks less so when it's zoomed in to 10 times its original size.


Great effort for a first model, though. Getting the painting nice and neat is the first battle, and you seem to have won that one.

Also as far as photography goes, this is part of what insaniak was talking about, what are you using, and can you turn do the ISO?

J.Black wrote:It looks quite patchy; almost as if you've drybrushed the blue on to primer. Thin your base colour with a little water and try to lay down a couple of coats of solid blue on the armour.

I honestly wouldn't bother with highlighting to begin with. A good wash will bring out the shades and details nicely.

Thanks, I thought the paint was a little thick, but I wanted to see how it looked on the model first. Definitely going to thin it down next time/

insaniak wrote:It's definitely a good start.

A couple of quick tips for improving the final model:

- Clean off the mould lines. This can be done with a small file, or by scraping with the blade of a scalpel or hobby knife. It's a bit of work, but improves the look of the model no end.

- Drill out the bolter barrel. Again, a minor detail that makes a surprising amount of difference to the end product. If you don't have one, pick yourself up a pin vice and a 1mm drill bit. Cut the mould tab off the end of the bolter barrel, and then just drill in the centre of the barrel a couple of millimetres. If you want to get really spiffy, drill in far enough that the hole goes further in than the flash holes on the sides of the barrel, and then drill through those as well.

- Washes on flat armour can look a little messy. So while they can be great for getting shading into the crevices, it's better to follow it up with another coat of paint over the flat surfaces (being careful to not get paint in the crevices you've just washed) to neaten them up again.


- Highlight with a paler blue than whatever you've used on the armour (or with the same blue with a little white mixed in if that's all you have). Apply the highlight to the upper edges of the armour... anywhere there's an edge or a seam. This gives the illusion (somewhat) of a light-source that is above the model.

As you get better at it, highlights can be expanded, stronger on upper surfaces with lighter highlights elsewhere... but that requires careful blending of colours, so is something that comes with practice.


- Take smaller or less zoomed-in pictures. The camera isn't forgiving of flaws, and a model that looks great in real life almost always looks less so when it's zoomed in to 10 times its original size.


Great effort for a first model, though. Getting the painting nice and neat is the first battle, and you seem to have won that one.

Ah, knew I was forgetting something. I forgot about the mould lines, will go and clean up the rest of them. And how much would a pin vice with that bit set me back do you think? And I'm no photographer by any means, your tips are greatly appreciated.

thegrav wrote:Also as far as photography goes, this is part of what insaniak was talking about, what are you using, and can you turn do the ISO?

About the picture, you're going to have to explain that whole area to me. Im using just a regular HP Photosmart, and explain what the ISO is. Thanks in advance.

Pin Vice runs something like $5 for a basic one (maybe a bit cheaper), the bits will get you for maybe $7, but you'll get a variety of them (I couldn't find singles anyway).

It's cheap for how much you'll use it.

ISO determines how light is filtered in digital medium. For a dark photo you might use a high ISO to get more light info. What it does is a lot more technical and long winded, but that is a very laymans way of looking at it. What ISO does to your photos is add a lot of grain.. Anyway a way to fix it is to use good lights, no flash on the camera and Macro settings, also back away from the mini by a inch or two more, and use white surfaces to bounce your lights.

looking really good for a first, doesnt it feel damn good?