Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

So I need the help of you gun nuts on here. I'm wanting to get a Mauser 98k. The catch is I want it to still have the original German markings and be in full working order. I saw a site for Mitchel's Mausers but I don't know if they are reliable. Any advise for the best way to get what I'm looking for?

What original markings are you after? A WWII era will not be that hard to get a hold of. A Weimar or Imperial era will be harder and a lot more expensive obviously.

When I hunted for my K-98 I found most of the ones I looked at worked great (Those Germans really know how to make a rifle). Main thing to look at is the action on the rifle. Everything else can be worked on or replaced. Pull back the bolt, if it isn't smooth don't bother with it. Of course when buying any firearm make sure there isn't any rust unless you want a lot of work.

I know next to nothing about Mitchel's Mausers so unfortunately i cant help you there. However i bought my K-98 at a pawn shop. You can possibly find one at a gun shop that sells historic firearms or a pawn shop. Your best bet is a gun show. You can find anything at those.

I don't know what you budget is but I'll use my experience as a template for you. My K-98 has all the original markings, made in 1943, barrel and bolt in good condition, stock in used condition, no bayonet, no shoulder strap, paid $320

Are you going to shoot it? Just wondering cause 8mm is a little hard to come by. I bought a whole can of surplus 8mm and two out of five rounds were duds. Make sure any ammo you get was manufactured within the last 20 years at least, due to the primer rotting out.

Well I hope that helps and good hunting

I'll second the gun shows. Another good thing to do is find out what markings indicated the manufacturing date of the rifle and any other markings that may be present, write them down, and use them as a reference when looking for a rifle. If the serial number or markings don't match, then its not the rifle you want.

For example on my nagant I have more than several markings. There's a box with a line crossing diagonally through it on the stock of my gun meaning it was refurbished in Ukraine after WW2. The other markings are a triangle with an arrow in it, meaning it was manufactured by Izhevsk for the most part. My barrel is new from an american factory and part of my bolt was made by remington. I also know it was manufactured in 1943.

I do intend on shooting it. I'm not particular on what markings they are so long as they were put there when it was made in Germany. I don't want something that has had them put on later on to be a replica. I will do some research and see if any gun shows are planned in my area any time soon. Thanks for letting me know what to look for to make sure its functional.

Most of the time I think you're going to get a refurbished barrel, like I said, mine was made recently and I can tell because of the marking being finely etched.

The markings indicate a lot though. Some indicate certain factories and companies and may cause the price to raise or lower depending on the rarity. I planned on shooting my nagant, but I wanted one with some history behind it as well. If you only care to shoot it then a replica may be cheaper for you, if you want history then look for specific markings that are common and look for ones that are rare. If they're selling a rare one for the same price as a common I would either get the rare or ask for the common marking one to be reduced in price(it may work).

Code / Manufacturer
ar = Mauser-Werke AG, Werk Borsigwalde, Berlin-Borsigwalde, Eichborndamm
ax = Feinmechanische Werke GmbH, Erfurt, Altonaerstr.
bcd = Gustloff Werke, Werk Wiemar, Weimar
bcd/ar= Dual code; denotes manufacture jointly by Gustloff Werke in Weimar, and Mauser-Werke AG, Berlin
bnz = Steyr-Daimler-Puch AG, Werk Steyr, Steyr, Austria
byf = Mauser-Werke AG, Oberndorf a./N
ce = J.P. Sauer & Sohn, Suhl
dot = Waffenwerke Bruenn AG, Brno, Czechoslovakia
dou = Waffenwerke Bruenn AG, Werk Bystrica
duv = Berlin-Luebecker Maschinenfabriken, Werk Luebeck
svw = Late code for Mauser-Werke AG, Oberndorf a./N
swp = Late code for Waffenwerke Bruenn AG, Brno, Czechoslovakia
S/27 = Erfurter Maschinenfabrik (ERMA); came under same management as Feinmechanische Werke GmbH
S/27G = Erfurter Maschinenfabrik (ERMA); came under same management as Feinmechanische Werke GmbH
S/42 = Mauser-Werke AG, Oberndorf a./N, early code
S/42G = Mauser-Werke AG, Oberndorf a./N, production in 1935
S/42K = Mauser-Werke AG, Oberndorf a./N, production in 1934
S/147 = J.P. Sauer & Sohn, Suhl
S/147G = J.P. Sauer & Sohn, Suhl
S/147K = J.P. Sauer & Sohn, Suhl
S/237 = Berlin-Luebecker Maschinenfabriken, Werk Luebeck
S243 = Mauser-Werke AG, Werk Borsigwalde, Berlin-Borsigwalde, Eichborndamm
S243G = Mauser-Werke AG, Werk Borsigwalde, Berlin-Borsigwalde, Eichborndamm
27 = Erfurter Maschinenfabrik (ERMA); came under same management as Feinmechanische Werke GmbH
42 = Mauser-Werke AG, Oberndorf a./N, early code
147 = J.P. Sauer & Sohn, Suhl
237 = Berlin-Luebecker Maschinenfabriken, Werk Luebeck
243 = Mauser-Werke AG, Werk Borsigwalde, Berlin-Borsigwalde, Eichborndamm
337 = Gustloff Werke, Werk Weimar, Weimar
660 = Steyr-Daimler Puch, Steyr, Austria
945 = Waffenwerke Bruenn AG, Brno, Czechoslovakia

As you look through the above list, some weren't made in Germany, but in areas around it. Markings can help a lot if you want a specific kind of gun and manufacture, also don't worry if the bolt and barrel serial numbers dont match. That's actually a good thing in this case.

Buy from Mitchel's Mausers... you won't be dissapointed.

The stock on that is nice, is it an original of aftermarket remake? I like the slip on pad though! the 8mm are pretty harsh on the recoil and beat me up the few times I shot them(I lurve my 7mm mauser though!)

About 8 years ago there was like a flood of 8mm mausers and ammo. They became the favorite project rifles and alot of them were going for around 100$ My freinds bought some up, and the ammo was cheap too like 18$ per 100.

Finding the markings you want is likely to raise the price some- sellers are getting savvy to what people are looking for thanks to the internet. Gunshows and the internet are the best bet for finding the specific you want. The shows let you handle it in person, and the net can help you find something across the country- downside being shipping it to a local FFL dealer.

The stock is original and it shoots like a million $$$.

And I had to add the slip on recoil pad due to the fact that even my seasoned shoulder couldn't take all day of shooting it. lol.

I love Mausers

Halo what would I need to look for if I just want one made during WW2 in Germany. Thats about as specific as I want as well as fully functional. I'm not a huge buff yet but I've slowly been researching Germans in WW2 and its pretty amazing.

You just need to look for one of the markings above. Some countries also had "40", "41" or whatever year it was manufactured on it.

Some countries also put markings on the stock to tell where it was made.

@jp400, is that the sniper variant?

jp400 wrote:The stock is original and it shoots like a million $$$.

And I had to add the slip on recoil pad due to the fact that even my seasoned shoulder couldn't take all day of shooting it. lol.

Which is exactly why I went to the 7mm mauser, I couldnt believe how pleasant it was to shoot compared to the 8mm. When I dabbled in long range silohuette shooting I was usin a 30.06, so I can totally relate to being able to shoot all day. I swear, Remington was the only abusive boyfreind I ever had

When I got my 7mm, the other guys I shoot with all got older military bolt rifles too and it turned into our competition, to see who could get the cheapest/best rifle for bragging rights. My buddy Mike won out with his Finnish Mosin Nagant that had a full length wood forestock- 100$ and 10$ of sand paper and oil- that gun was just gorgeous. Yours definitely woulda been in the running in our lil group.

Sandpaper, ouch. How messed up was that stock?

Funny how this thread starts just after I had my Turkish Mauser out this weekend.

ZF-

I'd love to own a Mauser 98k. Damn English firearms laws!

Do you chaps over in America mind finding oil under our territory and then "liberating" us from our oppressive regime so I can go out and buy one?

Mitchell Mauser sells refurbished mausers that have no collectible value at all. You also have to becareful which mauser you choose since one of the model they sell is actually a Yugoslavian M24/47 mauser, not a German K98K.

Take a look here:

http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/index.php

Do a search on Mitchell Mauser and you will see all the complaints.

I would go find one either at a gun show or some reputable seller from Surplus Rifles.

I have a Russian Captured one. The Russian captured a bunch from the Germans and kept them in reserve depots for World War 3. Now the Russians are selling them to the US. Most Russian Captured (RC) ones have an "X" stamped on the left side of the receiver and many have the swastika peened out. Luckily my RC Mauser K98k retained all the markings and only has the "X" stamped.

Good Luck in your search but don't trust Mitchell Mauser if you want a collectible one.

Thanks for the warning about Mitchels. Is there an online distributor thats trustworty? Otherwise I will have to wait until later next month for a gun show. I'm not concerned with matching for collectors value I just want the original markings (unaltered) to make sure its from the proper time period. If its altered its not worth trusting this. I do need it in working condition though.

I'd be stunned if you couldn't find a 98K at a gun show. You might not like the price but I can't recall a single gun show that you couldn't find a 98K without even trying.

I don't doubt that due to their popularity. The problem is me making it to one. Heh. Just realized how spoiled by the internet I truly am. :3

I've been out of the Surplus market for a while but I remember this place.

http://www.empirearms.com/

http://www.jgsales.com/index.php/c/c-r-guns/cPath/290?osCsid=08fc779dc2f42955ee4f3d69f1d21440

@halonachos:
Don't think so. I've got the paperwork/cert of Auth floating around here somewhere and will have to look it up... sadly I don't know off the top of my head (though I want to lean toward no)

@Mistress of minis:
Nice and glad to hear.

You should see my current project gun.... turning a Spring 1903 from crappy "sportorized" back to "Mil-Spec"

You should see my current project gun.... turning a Spring 1903 from crappy "sportorized" back to "Mil-Spec"

Yea baby yea!

Just for you Fraz...


-Work done so Far-
* Removed old stock and replaced with a vintage surplus stock
* Removed New Two Stage adjustable trigger and replaced with a vintage surplus one
* Removed a pretty sad excuse for a buttplate and bought a new mil spec replica replacement (to be installed)

-Need To Do-
* buy matching handguard
* buy Barrel bands
* buy buttplate screws
* buy Sling Attachments

Excellent. How's the barrel bore? Rebluing it?

Are you going to refinish the stock? You could turn even craptacular stock into art with some TLC. Stain it out, wet out the wood, then a light stain, then proper finish. Yee ha!!!!

jp400 wrote:Buy from Mitchel's Mausers... you won't be dissapointed.

Your Mauser is not a German K98k. It is a Yugoslavian M24/47 with a turned down bolt.

LoL..

The bore is clear and crisp. Overall I would say in 90% range.

Not sure what I am going to do with the stock at this point. I am mainly trying to get the gun complete before I start thinking about all that.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

inquisitor_bob wrote:

jp400 wrote:Buy from Mitchel's Mausers... you won't be dissapointed.

Your Mauser is not a German K98k. It is a Yugoslavian M24/47 with a turned down bolt.

Annnnnd you sir, are wrong.

Mauser, Obendorf- "byf" (insert year here, can't remember off the top of my head and too lazy to dig out the rifle from storage) says so.

jp400 wrote:LoL..

The bore is clear and crisp. Overall I would say in 90% range.

Not sure what I am going to do with the stock at this point. I am mainly trying to get the gun complete before I start thinking about all that.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

inquisitor_bob wrote:

jp400 wrote:Buy from Mitchel's Mausers... you won't be dissapointed.

Your Mauser is not a German K98k. It is a Yugoslavian M24/47 with a turned down bolt.

Annnnnd you sir, are wrong.

Mauser, Obendorf- "byf" (insert year here, can't remember off the top of my head and too lazy to dig out the rifle from storage) says so.

90% Excellent.

I would suggest you take a look on the internet what a Mauser K98k bolt looks like. Your bolt is not bent at the same angle.

You should also search for a Yugoslavian M24/47 on the internet and find pictures of that rifle which will match exactly what you have except for the slit in the sock for a Mauser K98k sling. You can see that a real Mauser K98k stock does not have any wood covering the area between the bolt and rear sight like the M24/47. The M24/47 bolt also do not fit a K98k. I have both rifles so I know what they look like and how they operate.

Mitchell Mausers are well known for making fake markings on their rifles to fool purchasers. I'm not going to bother arguing whether or not you believe your Mauser is a real K98k. You can do your own research but most people who purchased their "Mauser K98k" from Mitchell Mausers believe they have a real one. You can believe all you want but military surplus collectors know the real K98k from the fake ones.

jp400 wrote:@halonachos:
Don't think so. I've got the paperwork/cert of Auth floating around here somewhere and will have to look it up... sadly I don't know off the top of my head (though I want to lean toward no)

The main reason I ask is because of the bolt. Most rifles that were used as sniper rifles have a curved bolt so that it wouldn't hit the scope while loading a new round in. I know this is true of my nagant.



I think you may have been screwed sir.

jp400 wrote:Just for you Fraz...


-Work done so Far-
* Removed old stock and replaced with a vintage surplus stock
* Removed New Two Stage adjustable trigger and replaced with a vintage surplus one
* Removed a pretty sad excuse for a buttplate and bought a new mil spec replica replacement (to be installed)

-Need To Do-
* buy matching handguard
* buy Barrel bands
* buy buttplate screws
* buy Sling Attachments

You need to put strawberry artwork on your gunstock to match the pretty containers on your counter. Its all about accessorizing when youre building a gun! Imagine the fear of your foes if they knew it was the dreaded 'Strawberry Sniper' that they were being hunted by


Automatically Appended Next Post:

halonachos wrote:

jp400 wrote:@halonachos:
Don't think so. I've got the paperwork/cert of Auth floating around here somewhere and will have to look it up... sadly I don't know off the top of my head (though I want to lean toward no)

The main reason I ask is because of the bolt. Most rifles that were used as sniper rifles have a curved bolt so that it wouldn't hit the scope while loading a new round in. I know this is true of my nagant.



I think you may have been screwed sir.

Turned down bolt handles were standard on the K's. The regular 98's had the straight handles standard- and probly swiped the bolts from 98ks when they put the larger scopes on.

http://www.rocchi.org/fucili/esplosi/K98kcolori.jpg

Im too lazy to scan my old books(let alone dig them out) but that diagram should shed some light.