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Made in us
Knight Exemplar



NC

Need to make my Reclaimers white robes look dirty without over doing it. Any tips?
   
Made in us
Growlin' Guntrukk Driver with Killacannon






Ohio

Devlan mud wash

Orks W-L-D
27-10-8
Daemons W-L-D
6-5-3
Warboss Lemmy's Speed Freaks: 1730pts painted
+ Skullbearers: 750pts painted
DT:90S++G+MB-I+Pw40k09#+D++A+/hWD-R+++T(T)DM+
My Battle Reports: Orks against: Tau , Tau , Tau  
   
Made in us
Knight Exemplar



NC

more of a burnt ash dirty rather than a roll in the mud dirty.
   
Made in gb
Death-Dealing Dark Angels Devastator





England..

Defo devlan mud wash, maybe light dry brush of scorched brown on the parts you want to look extra dirty...



"Only the DEAD have seen an End to WAR" - Plato


2010 W:3 L:4 T:5
2011 W:3 L:4 T:3 
   
Made in us
Knight Exemplar



NC

don't use citidale paints, plese be generic if your suggesting a color. Thanks!
   
Made in us
Growlin' Guntrukk Driver with Killacannon






Ohio

Even if you don't use citadel paints, you should consider their washes as they are quite fantastic.

Orks W-L-D
27-10-8
Daemons W-L-D
6-5-3
Warboss Lemmy's Speed Freaks: 1730pts painted
+ Skullbearers: 750pts painted
DT:90S++G+MB-I+Pw40k09#+D++A+/hWD-R+++T(T)DM+
My Battle Reports: Orks against: Tau , Tau , Tau  
   
Made in us
Hierarch




Pueblo, CO

Silverkell wrote:don't use citidale paints, plese be generic if your suggesting a color. Thanks!


A lot of people on here use citadel paints, and devlan mud is quite possibly one of the most useful tools a miniatures painter can have in their kit... no joke.

This is coming from a guy that swears by his liquitex/golden artist-grade soft body acrylics....


all that being said, starting with a Titanium Oxide white, and working your way into a slightly darker shade of cream, either by way of yellows or browns, tends to work quite nicely for me. Actually, with a recent Menoth conversion, I've started with straight Elf Flesh basecoat over a grey prime, and built it out with a (roughly) 50/50 mix of Elf flesh and Fortress Grey, into a 50/50 mix of Elf flesh and skull white, into a hit of skull white, and another hit of skull white, with a layer of good ol' Devlan Miracle between each coat, but the client is finishing with a layer of magic wash, so I'm not too concerned about the finish layer, personally.

That being said, when doing cloth, start with a grey or black base, and build up from a shade darker than you want to end, wash, another coat of your darker shade, wash, highlight with your darker shade, wash, a highlight of your goal shade, another wash, and final highlights with your goal shade. It really helps to define the shadows and get a good result out of your fabrics.

Things I've gotten other players to admit...
Foldalot: Pariahs can sometimes be useful 
   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Vallejo, CA

Yeah, starting with a black prime and working your way up through a tan color to white will go a long way. If you want to then add some actual mud/dirt, then splatter or very faintly drybrush on some sort of very grey-colored brown (mix it yourself if necessary).

Your one-stop website for batreps, articles, and assorted goodies about the men of Folera: Foleran First Imperial Archives. Read Dakka's favorite narrative battle report series The Hand of the King. Also, check out my commission work, and my terrain.

Abstract Principles of 40k: Why game imbalance and list tailoring is good, and why tournaments are an absurd farce.

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