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hello, this is my first post so don't expect it to be amazing. in fact i dont mind if you say its rubbish, cos it probably will be.as i am new i would like to know what tools people use for painting and modelling.by tools i mean for cutting, filing ,drilling etc

i don't and havent done a lot but these are the tools i use for it.
i honestly think the citadel tools you pay for more than you get . your better off buying tools from a proper tool company.

-i use the palette you get in the starter paint set.

-for filing i use some rusty old files i found at a boot sale.

Frames means those spruce right?

i guess you should use a hobby clipper, snap off knife are good to cut the excess of it, then you file it to have it smooth

well i do suggest you use a pin vise, that thing looks more errrr "heavy duty"

then there's the king of tool, dremel

All looks good except that drill lol ! You can get pin vices with all the bits you will ever need for under a tenner (saying that uve done with a small drillbit with the shaft warped in tape for t years . As for extras I suggest a couple of colour shapes for any filling or scripting needs .

I can't recommend a pin vice highly enough. Get a swivel-back one with interchangeable collets so you can fit whatever size bit you need. They do make pin vices with a chuck system so you don't have to swap out, but the bulk and the price drives me away. I'd advise against getting a double-ended pin vice, though. Sure, you can keep two collet sizes ready to go, but the comfort and control while drilling afforded by a swivel head greatly outweighs the minor hassle of changing collets twice as frequently. Pin vices are also more flexible and less fiddly than an Archimedes drill.

I'd also suggest you get a sturdy, ALL METAL hobby knife and some blades. I use a bog standard X-acto handle and no.11 blades for 95% of my knife needs (removing parts from sprue, scraping mold lines, cutting plasticard sheet/rod, and more). The retractable snap-off knives are great for easy cuts on thick material (carving foam for terrain, etc.), but the blades are thin and flimsy. No.11s won't buckle and snap under torque and allow much finer control of the blade.

I'd also look into swapping that mini hacksaw for a razor saw. You can pick one up pretty cheaply, often packaged with a small miter box, which is plenty useful, in its own right. The cuts will be cleaner than your hacksaw, plus the kerf is MUCH narrower, meaning you can chop the hand off of an arm without removing half of the limb as plastic dust. Some people prefer a jeweler's saw, but I haven't yet found a project where I would use it over my razor saw for a straight cut. If you'll be doing pierce-work on sheet metal as well, then the jeweler's saw can work double duty, in a pinch. Just learn how to use it or you'll snap a dozen blades before you've sawed an inch.

Other immeasurably valuable tool - a good ruler/straightedge. I have a 6" steel rule I use for any and all small measurements and cuts. Longer cuts go to a 12" clear plastic one that has a metal strip on one edge to guide cuts. I've found the smaller steel rule unbelievably convenient on my cluttered desk, as I don't have to shift things around for clearance.