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Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Scyzantine Empire

I've seen stellar results of using pigments on vehicle models to step up the realism, which I compare to basing infantry models. I was recently able to purchase a bottle of Vallejo pigment and was wondering if any experienced users could provide advice about using them, i.e. mixing proportions, effects of different solvents (alcohol vs. water, etc.), application techniques, and the like? Please feel free to post pics of your examples and be descriptive!

What harm can it do to find out? It's a question that left bruises down the centuries, even more than "It can't hurt if I only take one" and "It's all right if you only do it standing up." Terry Pratchett, Making Money

"Can a magician kill a man by magic?" Lord Wellington asked Strange. Strange frowned. He seemed to dislike the question. "I suppose a magician might," he admitted, "but a gentleman never could." Susanna Clarke Jonathan Strange & Mr. Norrell

DA:70+S+G+M++B++I++Pw40k94-D+++A+++/mWD160R++T(m)DM+

 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

I use 70% Isopropyl alcohol as a fixer (cheap as dirt, effective, quick drying, and available at any drug store), if I apply the pigments dry. Load up a brush with a decent belly (within reason - the more it can hold, the trips back and forth between alcohol and model, but you don't want to completely flood the thing) and lightly touch it to the surface where you're fixing the pigments. Capillary action will spread the alcohol around and the pigments will suck it up, darkening somewhat. Simply repeat until you can see that all of your pigment has gotten some love.

Initially, I used alcohol for pigment washes, as well, but I'm thinking about experimenting with plain old water. The thing is, the alcohol weakens the underlying paint, so with any amount of brushing, you end up stripping streaks of paint off of the areas you're trying to weather, instead of covering them with pigment. I've heard that water is sufficient if you're going to seal everything (or you're simply not going to touch the model - I'd do it for a display piece, but not for wargaming models) afterward. If that turns out not to be the case, it just means clear-coating the model before weathering, so I can use the alcohol washes without killing the initial paintjob.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Scyzantine Empire

So you brush on the solvent then add the dry powder, as opposed to mixing the two and applying the "slurry"?

Thanks for the tip on sealing beforehand. I usually base, then seal, then add grass and I was a little lost as to when to seal with pigments. After using the pigment, should I matte coat it again?

What harm can it do to find out? It's a question that left bruises down the centuries, even more than "It can't hurt if I only take one" and "It's all right if you only do it standing up." Terry Pratchett, Making Money

"Can a magician kill a man by magic?" Lord Wellington asked Strange. Strange frowned. He seemed to dislike the question. "I suppose a magician might," he admitted, "but a gentleman never could." Susanna Clarke Jonathan Strange & Mr. Norrell

DA:70+S+G+M++B++I++Pw40k94-D+++A+++/mWD160R++T(m)DM+

 
   
 
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